Ben

I never even knew they made this!? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Ford-F100-Custom-1st-Gear-Diecast-1-25th-scale-/271106328725?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item3f1f324895

I have to be honest, I don't really care for the candy green looking wheels but I love everything else!!!!!! Looks like you did a VERY nice job on it!

I don't know anyone casting direct copies of the Trumpeter wheels but I make high float ten hole wheels and regular Alcoa ten hole wheels with detail that far exceeds the detail and accuracy of the Trumpeter wheels. You can see them here: www.public.fotki.com/lotso Message me if you see anything your interested in.

Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you to who ever decided to cancel it even though it was about 9-1/2 years too late! Those drama shows make me sick!

Beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, they probably were 20's or 22's now that you mention it. They don't appear to be split rims so 20" didn't occure to me when I looked at them.

Hey Mike, not sure what the exact wheelbase is but each wheel rim is right at 24" so that may help in measuring the rest. The battery box would be on or in the frame right behind the cab or it might be on the other side with a shorter fuel tank behind it. That hub sticking out of the front wheel is known as Center Hub Steering. Some older trucks had this instead of power steering as it would basically place the wheel inline with the king pins of the axle so the wheel would pivot on it's axis rather than swing backward and forward like it would when the wheel is moved outward. This made steering easier. I mastered some five hole wheels that, while not exact to those in the picture, are very close. I also mastered that Stemco center hub on the front axle in case you need those as well. Hope this helps.

There are many differences in the hoods alone, not to mention the cabs. The "A" hood has round headlights, rounded fenders, a raised triangle on the top of the hood and the top has more slope to each side where it meets the grill. The "B" hood has square headlights, more squared off fenders, a straight raised rib on top of the hood and the grill is more squared. These are just things I can remember off the top of my head. I'm pretty sure there's a few more differences.

Somebody's gonna have to clean out that fire suit!!!!!!!!!

It used to always be listed at the top of the "General" section but it's not there now?

Was it moved or deleted?

Wow, that's gonna be something!!!!!! Can't wait to see more progress on this one!!!!!

Actually, if you can find someone to do the artwork for you, PhotoCut (I think they're in New York?) will make it for you. They offer photo etch services on as few as one piece. I just sent an email to Detail Master about making some truck parts I need that they can add to their line. I am hoping they will decide to make them for me!

I'm not surprised at all, that's an oustanding build!!!!!!!!!!!! Congratulations on your win!

LED's last longer and they are cooler!

Eric (Porky) has a nice resin kit of that suspension you could use to correct the Papa Truck kit. I wonder if the Hideout Truck had the Torsion Bar suspension as well?

Neither, the only thing that would give me more statisfaction of one of my builds would be an HONEST compliment from a fellow model builder that knows the real subject matter very well.

That was a NitroMethane backfire that caused that!

Sir, I think your taillight is out.

Yep, that's the one. I think that is a skunk! LOL I don't rember it being included in the Revell version that I had but it may have been?

That's one of my favorite snap and pickup kits! That was one of the very first dually kits ever made.

That is one heck of a nice job done on that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm in San Antonio and for the past couple days on the news, they have been showing night time video of that new highway and the huge packs of wild hogs that are crossing it at night! There has already been three accidents. The have a bounty of 2.00 for each hog killed but I see several accidents happening before they can actually gets things under control!

Beautiful work so far!!!!!!! Archer Transfers makes 3D rivet decals as well in several different sizes and spacings.

That appears to be a fiberglass resin which is most likely why it remains sticky. It also appears to be very contaminated. Those tiny air bubbles should not be there and will constantly produce voids on your finished piece. I wish I could help you with what you have but I honestly think you'll be wasting your time trying to produce parts with it.