crazyjim

Hey. I asked first. More seriously, hold on to the money until you find what you want and then get it.

The best thing you could do would to send it to me. I accept cash, checks and paypal.

Fit the galss inside; use blue painters tape to hold from the outside; glue inside with Testors glue for clear parts; remove tape after 60 minutes.

Yeah - your man cave, Keith. I was trying to make a funny.

I'll see what I can do, Nick.

Very realistic looking bricks.

I'm not into the rust thing, but this build is looking pretty realistic.

SHINY - the only way to go. Super build, Speedy.

I like PURPLE. I like SHINY. I like this BUILD.

What a neat looking car. Maybe I'll go to Wal-Mart tomorrow. Your build is looking very sweet. Something huge sticking out the hood would be awesome.

This is supposed to be a hobby - let's have FUN!!

Looking good. I love that body! Just saw a nice Ghia at the Citrus County Cruisers drive in show last night. Couldn't miss it because it was chrome yellow.

Just added - nismo, trd, mugen, advan, dunlop, tom's, wiseco, weber, mikuni, kiehin, kei office, dg5, mine's, sumo power, pipercross, watanabe, wedsport, hayashi racing, tamiya, testor's, mpc,crowert, thrush, hoosier, jardine, doug thorley, centerline, weld, billet specialties. NOT added because I couldn't locate a logo - model car designs, mississippi resins, mad modeling, missing link resin - or because there are many companies with the same name and I'm not of the proper logo - ground control, solex, blitz, ssr. The latest version will be on it's way shortly Rob.

You're welcome, Brett. I should say it was a labor of love, but it was a pain in the rearend.

Thanks for the input. I'll search for those logos. Crazy Scale Auto Parts, Revell, and AMT are already covered.

Or assign specific time slots to members. I have an old PC with a monitor, speakers, keyboard, and mouse that I would be happy to donate to the cause.

What does a potential contestant do if he can make only one day?

I've tried to compile the posts made to this thread into one place and seperated into groups. Basic Preparation Mold/seam lines not removed. Sprue nibs on chrome parts. Slow down, take your time, and do it right the first time. Plan your build. Test fit the parts. Wash body and all parts to be painted in soap and water. Engine Oversized parts in the engine bay. Especially ignition wires. Mold line running across the radiator. The magic "floating alternator" that somehow miraculously floats in space, supported by nothing, yet still manages to keep the belts tight. Wrong engine colors (not all Ford engines are blue, for example). Use of correct Mopar orange. Meticulously detailed engines with no dipstick. Interior Ill fitting glass and window trim. Glue on the windows. Thick horn rings. Steering wheel in incorrect position. Roll bar vs roll cage. Chassis/Suspension Mold separation lines down the axle tubes. It seems like any drag car with a high front end is automatically a gasser. Giant wheel/tire setup that allows for exactly zero suspension travel or steering movement. Factory overspray on the chassis. Hubcaps with no evidence of a wheel behind it. Models not sitting straight, often due to not cleaning the mold nubs off of the tire tread. Directional tires that are mounted backwards. Chrome Centerline wheels. Chrome disk brakes. Decals that don’t follow tire contour. All 4 tires not on the ground. Tires that look like they're falling off the wheel. Body Ill fitting hoods that don't line up, or have a corner sticking up. The headlights and they aren't straight. The lines are running vertical or diagonal but not horizontal like they should be. Failure to polish out paint. Orange peel, boogers in the paint, uneven gloss. Hoods that are lighter or darker than the body or a pickup that has a darker or lighter bed. On street or factory stock cars, Inner fenders that come nowhere close to meeting up with the outer "sheet metal," or that are missing completely. BMF that is sloppy, uneven, and not burnished down properly. Side marker lights painted on sloppy and in the wrong color. Not all turn signal lenses are amber. Body colored vent window posts and vent trim. Opening panels that don’t close properly. Wing turned backwards. Panel seams too dark.

I know the can says to apply over black, but have you tried other base coats? I divided a spoon into white, grey, and black primers and shot the Colorshift over them. The black looks the best. I'm going to try it over HOK silver and gold basecoats just to see the effects.

Paasche H series single action works for me.

I picked up a can at Lowe's last week for $14.00. The plan is to use it on the '40 Ford sedan delivery that's in progress. It seems to come out the rattle can pretty nice (spoon test) but I might decant for the airbrush.

Whatcha gonna make on that milling machine, Romell?

Thanks Tony. Maybe that's my modeling niche - late '60s early '70s style.

At 7:02pm EST, I completed the compiliation of this thread in MS Word. I'm told that a MS Word document cannot be posted on this forum. No sweat! It fills about 2 pages in a 12 point font. I'm planning to maintain the file and try to sort it out a little. If you'd like a copy, send me a PM with a real email address and it's yours.

Updated again - added Shiefer clutch, hellaflush, stance, fatlace, illest. You want it? Send me a PM with your real email address.