Steve H.

Santa brought me a Camaro kit today... Me and my 13y/o daughter will try to build up this and her planned Yenko camaro in the next week or so. First impression... nice kit overall, with what looks to be good engineering for parts fit and such. What really dissappoints me, though, are the sink mark all over the body and hood. Its gonna take some time and putty to fill those in! I also realized those side marker lights aren't bad panel lines, just bad side markers! I'll keep everybody filled in on the buildup... Plan is Tamiya bright orange, black stripes, Nellis Rallyes, (if I have time) grill change like the concept drawing shown earlier... We'll see how it works out.

Very nice! Love those old wagons.

aaaahhhh... Now I see them! Very nice builds, the bug is very cool!

Hi, Welcome to the forum. No, I can't see your pics, but your descriptions sound good.

Wishing everyone a happy holiday season!

The "Matadora" ... Kind of a truck... 29 Rat Rod... A Gentlemans truck? Shop Truck... And for the Nostalgic feeling...

Thanks... I'm kinda leaning toward the body color firewall also... seems like white would be too much variety.

I've built a few suicide spring perches, so I thought I'd share my technique. My spring perchs are based loosely on 1:1s that I've seen at various shows. I start with 2 .040 styrene plates (these are approx 1/2" square) and drill a hole to fit the spreader bar. I also make a cut from the bottom to the drilled hole to be able to slip it over the spreader bar. After measuring and marking the center of the bar and the width of the perch, I line up the plates accordingly. And space them with the pieces I plan on using for the back and upper plate. With everything clamped in place, I apply liberal amounts of Testors liquid cement to the side plate/spreader bar joint. After that joint dries, I cut a piece to use as the back plate and glue it in place. After these joints have dried completely, I make the rough cuts to begin shaping the perch. Find the center of the leaf spring and drill it out for a brass mounting pin. Cut and drill another plate for the horizontal mounting plate. With everything taped down firmly to my bench, I glue the top plate in place. In this pic, I had to add side plate extensions. Had I done it correctly, I would have left the excess side plate and not had to add extra peices. After everything has dried completely, begin shaping the plastic to its final form. This can be tedious, but keep at it till its the shape you're looking for. I added the upper braces, because the perch seemed flimsy, and I wanted to make sure the suspension doesn't flex. I also added a strip of .010 styrene to the top and back to cover up glue joints and a misalignment of the back plate. The four extra holes in the top plate will be used for brass wire shackles, as seen in the last pic here (my 29 p/u) The best advice I can give is to take it one step at a time, allowing each joint assembly time to dry thouroughly. If you do that, you don't have to deal with a previous joint flexing or moving. Be willing to use way more styrene than neccesary. You can see, from start to finish, just how much plastic was trimmed away. I also found it neccesary to have both front and rear axles completely built, since they were needed to assure the stance stayed as intended during this construction. Enjoy... Hopefully there's something here that you can use...

Very nice work! Including the awards, looks like it was a very good year!

Those are just wierd... But yours is a really nice build!

Rust-O-Leum Key Lime (Drum brake color), off white frame, top insert, engine block and interior. Should the firewall be body color or off-white? What do you guys think?

I think Scale Motor Sports has an exclusive deal on them. I know the guy who designed them, I'll find out more info from him. Hmmm... If I know him, why don't I have some freebies? :?

Testors Semi-Gloss clear leaves a nice sheen on your interior color. Sometimes, over gloss, I'll use flat clear, then semigloss clear. You'll need to experiment with it. It also makes parts look like they're powder-coated... :?

Yeah, the tiny ones used on your kids braces. I have some of those floating around somewhere, just didn't think about them for this project.

I recently made up some deflated airbags for my current project. Here's a simple technique for doing it. cut out several squares of .040 plastic, drilled out the center and mounted them on a Dremel mandrel. I used a very small triangular file to shape them, along with an emory board to soften the edges. While they were still on the mandrel, I applied some Testors liquid cement to lock them down. To cover the hole, I punched out some circles from .010 plastic and glued them on.

Finished up the front frame mods. I laid down the first coat of primer on the frame last night, now I just need to smooth out the wrinkles that showed up. One question... Are those devices on the left firewall both brake master cylinders? It's definitely got Attitude! Spring perch, motor mounts, headlight stands... I filed down the bottom of the grill to fit the chopped shell. I decided not to finish off the grill outer bead... Because its buried so low on the front end you can't see it anyway. Sometimes I get crazy with the smallest details... there are 6 pieces of plastic in the motor mounts, when I probably could have gotten away with 1 piece. Looks like its time to get to the body shop!

I have a triple grit sanding stick that starts at 3200 and has 2 finer grits. 3200 will work just fine, just go at it carefully. Thinking about it more, I'd use a sanding stick instead of cloth, because you can better control the area that touches the model. Don't stress about it too much, its a pretty easy technique and after you do it once, you'll wonder why you were stressed.

http://images7.fotki.com/v105/photos/1/110...tromberg-vi.jpg Can you go right to my Fotki to see them, at the above address? Wierd, I've never had anyone say they can't see Fotki pics... They look like 2bbl strombergs sitting on top of a S.C.O.T. blown flathead.

Has anyone ever kitted or resin mastered carbs like these? Or would I be better off using 2 1bbl strombergs to make something similiar?

Now thats an interesting interpretation! Nice work!

I'm not a bike guy, but that's Cool!

Wildrice, I use a very fine sanding stick or polishing cloth. May take longer to clean it off, but less chance of damaging the surrounding area.

Bill! You'd actually direct someone to TKM? He'd be better off starting with a bar of soap! Bill's right, though... I can't think of any that have been produced. Good luck on that search... and welcome to the MCM forum!

Looks sharp in that color! You will finish... you will finish it... you will finish it... Hypnotized yet?

Oh sure... Now you tell me that! My plan is to take the bottom off the grill and then lay in some fine square stryrene rod to replicate the bead that goes around the grill. Color is going to be Rust-O-Leum Key lime (same as the rear end paint) with off white frame and interior