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Dennis Lacy

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Everything posted by Dennis Lacy

  1. Glad you caught it in the pictures I texted. would have sucked get them posted and catch it then!
  2. Thank you, Alan, and thanks for saying that! That "flow" is always at the top of my goals list for everything I build. I feel when you view a car you should see the whole thing at once, not be drawn to a single overpowering part or detail.
  3. UPDATE! Yesterday I wrapped up interior preparations. The only thing exciting enough to take pictures of is that I set up two sets of Revell '37 Pickup handles to pin on and laid them out based on reference pics. You can also see that the interior panels have been converted from 2-door to 4-door (done previously.) Today I sprayed the body and related pieced in the Tamiya TS58 "Pearl Light Blue". Tomorrow I will clear-coat everything but for tonight I couldn't resist setting the body and grill on to the chassis for a look. I also installed the trim rings and hubcaps with the FORD letters detailed in red to match the engine.
  4. Today I finally wrapped up my '32 Ford 5-Window build featuring Drag City Casting's chopped top body. The objective here was to build a hot rod tough enough to back up the aggressive 4.5" scale chop. - Drag City Casting resin body - Revell '32 5-Window complete chassis modified to sit low - Disc brakes replaced all around with Revell '40 Ford drum plates - Revell '64 Ford Thunderbolt sourced Radir 5-spoke wheels - Rear wheels deepened with inner wheel rings from Revell Beatnik Bandit show rod - Revell Pirelli front tires and fat BFG rears - Revell '57 Ford Wagon Gasser Y-block engine and trans - Detail Master #1 fuel lines & fittings, Parts By Parks pre-wired distributor - Extensions made to connect Y-block headers to 5-Window kit exhaust - Revell '32 5-Window interior with optional '40 Ford style dashboard - AMT '41 Woody steering wheel on homemade column, parts box Hurst shifter - Revell '29 Roadster headlights, ZZ-Top '39 tear drop taillights, 5-Window kit nerf bars - Rear fenders bobbed 6 scale inches - Testors one-coat lacquer "Bronze" with Tamiya clear - Tamiya "Pure White" accents - Revell Kurtis Midget "Edelbrock" decals Hope you guys dig it!
  5. Thanks, Alan! if I keep the hood top I will probably remove the existing beads and make new with half-round material to line up with the cowl. I will also probably add the material sections below the bead like 30/31 hoods have. I still haven’t fully decided on a dash and the shoebox piece isn’t a bad idea. That also got me to thinking about a narrowed ‘49 Merc. Thanks for the idea, I’ll have to play around with those!
  6. A brand new offering by Drag City Casting is this aggressively chopped 1932 Ford 3-Window Coupe which I created the master for. A direct fit for Revell's excellent '32 3-Window kit that has been reissued many times since it's initial release in late '96. Impeccable, kit-like quality. Retails for $25 + postage and includes a matching chopped windshield frame. Drag City does not have a formal website but can be contacted through their business page "Drag City Casting" on Facebook or directly by email: lowcab36@epix.net or by phone: 570-289-4345. You can also view Drag City's other products at their Fotki account: https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/ Ed is one of the most talented resin casters in the business and as honest and pleasant to do business with as it gets. You won't be disappointed! Below is a quick mock up I did to show how awesome this new offering is!
  7. Thank you! The carbs are Model Master “Jet Exhaust”
  8. UPDATE! Made some major headway on this one. As of now the chassis and engine are fully assembled except for the front shocks and the wheels will get caps & rings. The body and related are all in primer and should be in paint soon which will be the same as the wheels, Tamiya TS58 Pearl Light Blue.
  9. Think late 70’s Early Times club style cars. You know, two-tone paint, ornaments and Tru-Spokes... ?
  10. UPDATE! Got the car mocked back together and decided to try a Revell '32 hood top on it. If I keep the hood I'll need to raise the grill shell a touch because there's a little too much slope as it is. Also, there's a couple of close up pics of the fully mocked up engine fit back in.
  11. UPDATE! I didn't mention it last time but I am using a slightly trimmed Revell '32 series firewall to make room for the big Pontiac. I thought it looked kind of funky without any lip around the edge so I cut the lip away from the channeled option firewall in the '30 Coupe kit and attached it. From there I slightly modified the floor pan from a Revell '32 3-Window kit by removing material from the sides and removing the bulkhead at the back end. The bottom of the firewall needed to be trimmed 3/32" but mates up to the toe board portion of the floor perfectly. The interior panels and seat from the '30 Coupe kit were slightly tweaked to fit with the floor and I installed some alignment blocks on the floor so that the seat stays properly positioned. I also finalized the setup on the Pontiac engine. The block, heads, valve covers, intake/carburetors/air filters, Spalding dual coil distributor and Hydro auto trans are AMT Pontiac parts pack. The headers (factory cast iron style), front cover/water pump/fuel pump and fan are Revell Pontiac parts pack. The belt drive is from AMT's '36 Ford kits and I also installed actual, separate valve cover breathers from AMT's '34 Coupe (street rod version.) The heads were really plain looking so based on Pontiac 421 reference pictures so I added bolt heads from Grandt Line. Next up I need to choose a dash board and steering wheel, make a steering column and install details like pedals and shifter.
  12. This one is coming back around in the rotation but heading down a completely different path. I’ll start a new thread when I get going.
  13. That’s really neat, Curt! Model A sedans lend themselves so perfectly to rat rods and the tractor grill is an essential rat rod item. I really like the weathering, old Revell parts pack style Halibrand’s and the chain link “floor” and of course, the ARDUN.
  14. Thanks! Windshield and top will stay as they are. I want it to look like a grown man could actually sit in the car! The car is going to be finished in a 50’s aesthetic and the taller windshield and top are part of the era, too.
  15. Thanks, Alan! There were quite a few A hot rods out here back in the day with filled fender wells, too. I have noticed from pictures quite a few Aussie rods with the spring-ahead arrangement. It’s a hard look to pull off without having screwed up proportions. Thankfully these Revell A kit frames are stretched so doing the spring-ahead thing actually corrects the wheel base.
  16. Thanks and I don’t mind at all.
  17. Thanks for the kind words, as always, brother KK!
  18. This is a project I first started messing with about a year ago but it never got much past the stage of propping up some wheels and tires next to it. I randomly got inspired yesterday to pull it out and put in some work. While there's things about these Revell "A" kits I surely would have done different, the only real gripe I have is their decision to render the bodies with raised wheel arches. They also made the wheel wells unnecessarily deep while they were at it. To solve both of those problems I cut the wheel wells away from the interior side panels and then mounted them into the body down lower. I then restored the bead around them with .040" half-round and then sanded it flat to match the existing beads on the body. With the wheel wells in place the body would no longer fit onto the Revell '32 series frame, they interfered with the molded in floor. I made some relief notches in both sides of the rear, raised floor area. The wheel well basically replaces the removed material visually. I also had to match the bottom edges of the wells to the shape of the frame. The '32 kit rear axle (Ford 9") was lowered by trimming the air bags to get the axle tubes up against the frame rails. I ditched the disc brakes in favor of drums by using a pair of modified plates from the AMT '29 Roadster and the finned drums from AMT's '32 Vicky. The top section of the body is from Drag City Casting and has a beautifully reworked top insert detail that he mastered. He makes the whole body but I elected to keep the plastic lower half because of all of the wheel well work. Here's the whole thing up on its wheels for the first time. The '32 series front axle had the spring trimmed to get the front end down. The rear frame horns were bobbed after cutting out the gas tank and a spreader bar installed tucking just under the back edge of the body. The wheels, tires and printed slicks are all a set from one of AMT's recent parts packs and the Pontiac engine is AMT parts pack as well. . That's it for now...
  19. Got another traditional style hot rod going based on a Revell 1929 Roadster body, channeled frame option, floor pan and interior panels. And that's about where the kit provided parts end, LOL! Outwardly the wheels are Revell 1937 Ford Pickup / Panel Truck. The rears were modified to a slightly larger diameter to fit the big Monogram 1941 Lincoln tires. The front tires are AMT 1941 Woody. Normally the hubcaps have the V8 logo but the truck / panel kits includs a single "Ford" logo cap for the spare. Luckily I have enough truck / panel kits on hand to put together a set of 4 caps! The Model A engine with Riley 2-port performance head is from Revell's 1931 Sedan kits modified with a pair of carburetors from the Revell Tweedy Pie T, Vertex magneto from AMT's Ala Kart show rod and a Revell '48 Ford transmission. The stylized roadster top is a resin piece from Drag City Casting that I actually made the original master for. The Revell '32 grill was chopped 1/4" (6 scale inches) to be in better proportion with the channeled A body. These roadster bodies were rendered with over-sized wheel wells which I think look terrible. I employed an old traditional trick of completely filling them in making the body smooth sided. What's nice is that the filler panels don't interfere in any way with the kit floor and side panels. I just had to notch them for axle clearance. The frame was modified with scratch built engine brackets, a Revell '48 Ford rear cross member and axle. I installed the kits transmission cross member with the trans tab removed. A second trans cross member was installed (with the suspension brackets removed) to mount the front wishbone to. The front suspension is the dropped axle, spring, tie rod, brakes and shocks from Revell's 1940 Ford Coupe or Convertible hot rod versions with a Revell '29 Pickup wishbone. Also from the '29 Pickup is the steering gear box mated to a Revell '48 Ford column shift and '40 wheel. More to come... Comments, good or bad, welcome!
  20. A few years back I back dated the chassis to a traditional 1940's era by installing the frame center "X" and rear cross member from a Revell 1940 Ford and the rear axle from one of their 1948 Fords. Well, a bit over-simplified but not difficult to accomplish.
  21. Cut here, splice there... No problem! Looking good, brother!! ?
  22. UPDATE! Sadly, I had completely forgot about this project sitting under my bench halfway to being finished. I had that feeling something was missing! Didn't finish it today but I'm a whole bunch closer. Had a little bit of bronze paint left so I flowed some into the valve cover fins and air filter depressions. Then I finished up the Y-Block by terminating the plug wires and building the fuel lines using Detail Master #4 line and fittings with a scratch built tee and modified '57 Ford kit fuel filter. Assembled the interior which is right out of the '32 5-Window kit except for the scratch built column, parts box Hurst shifter and AMT '41 Woody steering wheel. Glued the engine into the chassis and connected the front exhaust pipes. I added decals to the engines oil filter can and generator for a little more interest. I also added the headlights, rear nerf bars and gas cap. Couldn't resist another mock up with the engine in place. One more afternoon at the workbench should have this one finished. Left to do are install the windshield and window glass, then the interior and firewall can go in permanent. Also small details like the door handles, taillights and license plate.
  23. They may have called it that on the box but the physical engine in this kit has never changed except for the induction and valve covers.
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