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Dennis Lacy

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Everything posted by Dennis Lacy

  1. Absolutely beautiful! Nailed the 60's look!!! Love the blue and white with the chrome-reverse wheels, killer stance and the Rochester-injected small block is a perfect choice.
  2. So good to finally see this one get finished! I really like the blue accent with the satin black and the blown Y-Block looks tough as nails tucked under the hood. The '36 greenhouse looks totally natural blended into the '34 body and the tucked in tail section makes the back end look nice and tight. Love it!
  3. Thanks guys! UPDATE! Yesterday I masked the fenders and sprayed the running boards flat black then last night I applied the decal scheme, all of which come from the most recent Retro-Deluxe AMT '40 Ford Coupe with the orange car on the box. Now it should make sense why the engine and other parts are orange!
  4. UPDATE! After a round of sanding & primer followed by a round of filler, sanding and primer here is where the Fordor conversion is at. Just a couple of nit-picky things to address and the body will be ready to send to Ed at Drag City Casting where it will be reproduced in resin and available for public consumption.
  5. UPDATE! Work continues. Yesterday I got the engine assembled, plumbed and wired. All the detailing products are from Detail Master. Last week I painted and cleared the fenders and today I painted the all of the other body and pieces. Fenders are Tamiya Light GunMetal and the the body is Mica Silver. Gonna give the paint a day to harden and then I can apply decals and clear. Getting there!
  6. UPDATE! Here's most of the engine and chassis parts in finished paint and detail paint work. This week I'll be starting in on body, interior panels, seat, roll cage and some other remaining pieces. The orange is Tamiya TS56 "Brilliant Orange" and will tie into the decals I've chosen.
  7. You realize that is a plastic mock-up engine? The only source for modern day manufactured replica Ardun head assemblies is Ardun Enterprises by Don Ferguson and those sets START at $14,000.
  8. There was only one style of 4-door sedan body and it was available in standard or deluxe trim, but the body itself was all the same. On the real ones the rear door windows are noticeably longer than the front door windows like your first picture. The front doors are the same length as a 5-window coupe (but not exactly the same door) so I measured them out using a Revell '32 5-Window body and then made the rear doors an 1/8th inch longer which is roughly 3 inches in 1/25 scale. What I did not do is lengthen the rear most small quarter windows which on the real car extend farther towards the rear corners of the body than on a 2 door sedan (there's much more of a blind corner on a 2-door.) I decided that I didn't feel like messing with it and I'm happy with the look. So while they got the small quarter windows more in correct dimension on the Star Models body, they didn't get the door proportions correct. It's the opposite "problem" of the body I made.
  9. UPDATE! Yes, I have been working on this thing! I've actually been hung up on detail painting a lot of the chassis and some engine parts because I was out of my go-to magnesium metalizer and haven't had an opportunity to go by the local shop to get more until today. I still need to clear seal a bunch of this stuff but at least the color is on! Here's some random pics from today.
  10. UPDATE! Yesterday I put the first coat of primer on to see how bad my work was. I honestly expected worse but there's still a long way to go.
  11. Thanks, Tom! I love ‘33 and ‘34 Fordor’s too. I’m about to shoot the first round of primer tomorrow. We’ll see how well all those lines really line up. Primer tells the truth! Haha
  12. Thanks, Bill! It’s not dead on accurate but I wasn’t really stressing for that. I’m gonna use the Revell consumer defense logic of that it’s okay if it’s not totally accurate because it’s a hot rod.
  13. Thank you! Coincidentally, I have a very high quality caster interested in reproducing and selling the body. But first, I have to make it good enough! Primer will tell the truth... Haha! The wheels are Revell 1937 Pickup/Panel Truck. The rears are resin items that I mastered. They have had their outer diameter enlarged to fit those killer big Monogram 1941 Lincoln tires. The wheels are currently available from Ed at Drag City Casting. He also offers a solid steelie wheel that I mastered to fit the same tire. You can find him on Facebook or send him an email to “lowcab36@epix.net” The front tires are from the factory stock version of AMT’s 1941 Woodie.
  14. This is a project that I've had in mind for quite some time and after recently acquiring 2 more Revell '32 Sedans I decided to make it happen. Follow along as I convert a Revell '32 2-Door Sedan into a chopped 4-Door! I started by removing the original door "B" post plus sections of the upper and lower window reveals 1/4" in either direction from the original door panel line. At this time I also marked the windshield posts and rear body to be chopped 1/8" which is about 3 scale inches. Both front and rear the chop cuts were laid out staggered and then the vertical separation lines cut through with the back of a new #11 blade. In the front the staggered cut allows the windshield post halves to be manipulated back together without having to stretch the roof and disrupt the original soft top insert detail. In the rear the staggered cuts are used because the ideal cutting locations for the side windows and rear window don't fall on a straight line. A bonus is that the staggered joints provide a far stronger glue joint than a straight butt-joint does. The shaded areas are then systematically removed until the top is separated. The fit of the top section is adjusted to make everything as lined up and square as possible. The top is glued back on using Zap-A-Gap CA and all of the joints are blended. The new 4-Door panel lines are cut in as well. The previously removed door "B" posts are now chopped to match and then the carefully cut into the body creating the new rear door posts. A second donor body is then marked to have its door "B" posts removed and enough window reveal area to fill in the gaps from removing the original posts. The donor door posts are then chopped and carefully cut into the body to form the new front door "B" posts. Next, lots and lots of careful filing and sanding to blend everything together. The original 2-Door door panel lines were filled in with strips of .020 x .020 square stock laid in like a diamond then sanded flush. The original door handle holes were filled and new door handle holes drilled in both doors. I also went ahead and corrected the interior panels to have a matching 4-Door layout. Lastly, a few mock ups to really get a look at how it looks!
  15. Actually, yes! Been working on painting all of the chassis and engine parts. Should have an update soon. Just waiting for a worthwhile amount to post.
  16. UPDATE! Got all of the chassis, engine and other small parts prepped and ready for primer. They’ll be heading to work with me and taking care of on my lunch breaks this week
  17. UPDATE! I've done some work since my last update but didn't get around to posting it until now. I mounted a modified Revell '40 Ford steering gear. I added a hoop steering arm (blue) to the axle/spindle made from a Revell '37 Ford street rod a-arm and then made a long steering drag link rod using Evergreen rod and tie rod ends cut away from the Revell '32 Ford kits. Here is the steering linkage in place with the front hairpin radius rods and long rear trailing arms. It looks like a cluster but everything clears! On the top side of the floor I've added all of the needed driver controls. A clutch pedal, a Moon style gas pedal, steering column and wheel, shifter stick and a neat hand operated master cylinder from Revell's old 60's parts pack T Roadster frame kit. Here's the top side with the cage in place. Back underneath I made a drive shaft from Evergreen tube and some kit U-joints. I also finally finished out the Hiborn fuel injection with some medium intake tubes made from Evergreen tube and then drilled out to a more realistic thickness. This thing is just about done with the fabrication and fitting stage and close to being ready to prep for primer. Here's some final bare plastic mock ups.
  18. Thanks, man! I'm having fun with this one.
  19. Thanks a bunch! And that's the goal.
  20. Thanks so much for your kind words, brother!
  21. Using the body shell, top and frame rails from the sister Thom Taylor '34 Cabriolet kit (which is basically the same except for the cabriolet windshield section, top and wheels)... I built this: Just like any other kit, your imagination is the limit!
  22. Today I felt like continuing with body / exterior related stuff. First thing I did was scratch together a parachute mounting bracket. The chute is from MPC's Cosmic Charger. Then I made a "club plaque" mount utilizing the original taillight mounting hole in the lower left corner of the body. I turned my attention to the cowl and removed the entire center of an AMT '29 Roadster firewall leaving just the outer perimeter to align the hood and still hinting of the firewalls original shape as if everything but the outer edge was simply sawed out. Then it occurred to me that I need to make sure that the engine still fits in the narrower hole. Thankfully it does! I made a basic platform to span between the frame rails in front of the engine then scratched together a fuel tank complete with filler, feed and return connections and mounting straps. And here it is all mocked up again. Also visible is that I filled in the headlight mounting holes on the fenders (and removed the plastic masses on the undersides.) Definitely looking like a racecar now! So next weekend I'll get back to the interior details but it's definitely getting "there"!
  23. Add me as another who ALWAYS updates my WIP thread titles to indicate I have done more work on the project. It definitely has a noticeable effect on getting views and comments!
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