horsepower

Quite possible, just repeated what was printed, it WAS one of the early outboard powered cars, I just assumed by the one big exhaust pipe and the fuel castor oil mix that it was some kind of two stroke.

Another location that you will never see braided stainless hose is when the line is used as a suction, like the hose from the bottom of the dry sump oil tank to the dry sump oil pump on the side of the engine.

Unless this particular chassis is different than every other sprint car I've seen the very front vertical tube (not the two shortie braces at the very front) aren't correct, there should only be one on the right side of the chassis it's used as a mount for the panhard bar to keep the front axle centered. There's usually a couple of spuds with threads in it for mounting the heim joint to and they're not very far apart they're for setting the front roll center.

plus one to pay him for the bet you lost??

Or Even regular enamel clear apply to the emblem with a small brush and wait until it's tacky then put into position on the car. Placing the emblems on a small piece of scotch tape before doing this makes it easy to see what you're doing and you can wait until dry before removing the tape.

Revell released a version of the early '90s Lumina that was used for the Days of Thunder cars that was plain white without decals, it was one of the last releases of stock cars from them, and isn't hard to find, I think I still have one or two in hiding, just not sure how deep I'd have to dig to find them, lol. I liked the AMT kits as parts donors for either short track cars, or street rods, their rear axles are clean and easily adapted to just about any model without doing major surgery, and the front clips are easily adapted to early pickups or cars to put modern front suspension under them.

Model T Hubs, not wheels, they had six rivets holding the drums to the hubs, the used just the s machined hub and bearings, this came from an article in Open Wheel magazine that covered the restoration of an early Kurtis midget.

Late for your build, but those six lug hubs are Model T bolt pattern, the old original midgets used the T hubs and made wheels to fit that pattern, when Halibrand made the first one piece wheels they designed a six pin setup with a pressure plate and a single Knock off nut to hold the wheel on. Until the eighties when the new splined wheels replaced the drive hubs with the six pin drive, sprint cars and midgets still used the same model T bolt pattern. Just a little history for you. ?

I know you have one of the new style Schroeder boxes and it's been years, but the new style boxes are a take off on a late model GM power steering box, the Schroeder you're looking for is the old style and they were patterned after a Ross steering box from the Crosley cars and international trucks, there is an excellent version of them in the midget kits that Revell released a little while back, or in a pinch you can even use a model A, or early Ford steering box with the side tubes made from tubing or styrene rod. We built a box for a real dirt modified in the late sixties from an early Chevy steering box and used the stock side cover and built an extension from tubing and cut the stock shaft to the Pittman arm and lengthened it out so we would still have the splined end, it worked perfectly. In fact in a recent Street Rodder magazine they printed an article on how to do the same exact thing using a Ford pickup box for use in a model A roadster that they wanted the old look steering in.

Much easier for those of us who want a vinyl top to do it with a little styrene strip, and a wide soft brush dipped in liquid glue and touched to the plastic, than it is for those who don't want one to remove the molded in one. The wide brush and liquid cement method is how I repaired the top of my '68 El Camino after fixing the sink spots, just sanded down the rest of the top to almost perfectly smooth then took a wide (3/4") soft brush and dipped it in liquid cement (evergreen styrene, white label) and just flowed it onto the roof without brushing it at all. After it dried overnight the surface was very close to the original vinyl casting from AMT.

Is that Dukes hood the same as the R2 Fast and Furious '70 Charger kit that's so baaaaad? (That's about the only part that even looks close to a '70 Charger and it has that horrible ghosting from the scoring for a hood cut out.)

I have that set somewhere in my stash, the set I'd like reissued is the Indy Roadster and rear engined Lotus kit. I had the original issue when I was in high school and traded off the roadster, I've got a roadster that is a semi build up, but it's going to be a replica of a big block super modified we've raced against.

If you want to get a good shiny metal finish either wait and polish the black, or put on a really shiny clear coat. You can use something like testors one coat wet look clear, or Krylon makes a clear that's sold as a clear glaze coat that is basically just a high solid clear and one wet coat builds like two, but you can even wait to polish it to a super high gloss before putting the Spaz-Stix Mirror Chrome on. Because the smoother the black finish is the better and more real looking your chrome finish will turn out. The real good thing about Mirror Chrome is they produce a clear top coat for it that won't affect the shine like happens with Alclad. It can even be top coated with two part urethane clear, the trick is letting it cure out completely. I race RC Sprint Cars and some of the guys use the Spaz-Stix on the wings using black on the back of the Lexan, the Mirror Chrome on the outside surface and use their clear to protect it because they definitely get handled a lot and they stay looking like highly polished aluminum after more than a full season of racing, it works good enough that many guys don't replace the wing after a season of racing, they just replace the side panels and re-use the center section of the wing.

Just one of my little oddities, but I've been really surprised by the amount of people who've built this kit that evidently didn't know that the lower corners of the cab aren't a separate piece on the real trucks. They're done the way they are to facilitate the molding of the cab as one piece.

Bet he'd only drive that on a dusty driveway once before changing the end of the headers to point out or back.

most of the commercial engines I've come across from '55 have been yellow, must be something about where they were built.

MV's are lights that come in various sizes and colors and are available at any fairly well stocked model train store, and some model airplane shops too.

You would think that someone would make something to stop the "static cling" our plastic models develop. At least when we're painting they're grounded (if we use the ol' clothes hanger paint stand, and a simple dusting of isopropyl alcohol in the airbrush will dissipate any residual static from the tacking process. (Something I learned while painting full size Corvettes, boats, and other plastic cars).

That's really clean, looks like it came out of the box that way. Now I need to attempt a two wheel drive version that's down in the weeds very with some of the trick interior pieces you'd expect to find in one of those.

Really like the four link setup and independent front suspension, where did you source the pieces from for the front suspension and did it require a complete front clip on the frame, and if so where did it come from. Now I'm waiting for a GM, or MoPar equivalent from you, you do know that you have to give equal time during an election year don't you. ?

I like the high dollar parking brake on the bottom one ?. You'd think what with all the money the have evidently invested that a working parking brake wouldn't be a problem, or at the minimum a chrome parking chock.

Thanks for the clearer picture showing off the seat back. I stand (barely) corrected.

The best of these "multi" kits was a four car set that was all Corvette's, of which I bought one at $19.99, from KB toy liquidators, and three at $10.00 each when even they decided to liquidate what they had left. The only one in the set that didn't have a ton of extra parts was the '53 version, but even it was good for trading to a friend who was building a model of the "Waldorf Nomad" (Corvair concept car).

That '40.sedan has been released several times, but instead of the dented fenders and broken glass it has custom parts, extra engine and wheels and parts to make it a '39 sedan.

Those look interesting, but it talks about a particular laminating machine, doesn't it make the cost higher if you have to purchase that machine?