horsepower

Extra motor & trans options, like a base six with a three speed, or automatic, and an optional V-8 with optional four speed, or the same auto trans used behind the six, like a C-4 in a Ford, and a TH 350 in a Chevy, and options of base wheels and dog dish caps, or wheel covers and after market wheels for the optional tires. Street rod kits could have a couple of different engine choices, like a vintage V8 for that group, or a more contemporary choice for the new style builders along with a complementary set up for tires and wheels. Rear end types could go with an older banjo Ford or a Ford 9 inch the banjo rear could have an open drive line set up so it would work with the parts for the 9 inch too interior could be a simple tuck and roll that wouldn't look out of place for either style of building, or for some vintage trucks and mid '30s-mid '50s cars, a dead stock setup, and a low rider package with chassis and under hood chrome, and separate suspension, with the lowered parts in show chrome and some more modern wheels and tires might actually be a popular choice, maybe the same idea with some big GM rides in the mid '80s, and give us a couple of mid '9Os Caddy's with stock body styles. These would go with the luxury car guys and the luxury low rider Gangsta group.

Harry, not all states required outside mirrors, California started requiring them in '67, I can remember having to buy them at the local parts store, and drilling holes in the fenders to mount them on my '56 Chevy.

Of if you go shopping with a color chip and search the fingernail polish aisle you can find a color that comes extremely close and in most cases the metallic is very close to scale.

I was going to put that on my list but was afraid of being told that the new one already exists why would they produce the old one. But I would like it, and while I'm here, how about the '64 Chevelle Malibu Craftsman kit?

Another day older and deeper in debt. But the wife did give me '72 Blazer kit to play with, going to build a two wheel drive low boy.

One of the keys I learned when painting 1:1 cars in some of the more transparent enamels was to use a VERY light fog coat for the first couple of coats and to make sure that they are dry enough that they are past the point of being able to transfer paint to your fingers when touching an area right next to where you have applied the paint, the last coats can be heavier, but the drying time is still very important to avoid sags or runs. It will help with enamel paints to warm them before painting, it will add a little pressure to the can, and the paint will flow out a little better, I heat mine in a sink of very hot water, letting it sit on the bottom with just enough water that the can doesn't start to float. I will pick up the can and shake occasionally, and add hotter water if needed, until the can remains warm to the touch after shaking. But be sure you remove any water that may have gotten into the top of the can. Good luck, painting is an art and once you get it right it's a pleasure.

You do know that the lettering on the 1:1 tires weren't a bright white unless someone redid them with a tire stick to make them look that way, and modelers have been trying to get the lettering right for years, I know you don't want to look for it (I don't blame you) but there are even threads about how to achieve this in the tips forums. Did your Mama ever tell you that you'll get more accomplished with humility the antagonism? With all the people on the forums that don't bring their problems with the moderators to a public place, I'm sure you'll not be missed by them if you decide to leave. I just hope that you were having a bad day and it was just easy to vent on here rather than to those who made your day a wreck, and I don't blame you, I've done the same thing on other forums but I did get back on after gathering my wits and apologized to the person I attacked, and to those that had to see my bad side. Enjoying our hobby is the key, after all is said and done they're still just toys, regardless of what we spend on them.

Gonna give my age away, but I had a teacher when I was in the fourth grade that had a black '59 with silver interior. He always had it polished like a mirror.

The '57 without the bumper should sell like ice cream in July. Instant Gasser!

This was done like the Pontiac Fiero ,front wheel drive engine and transaxle mounted midship to come out with a mid engined coupe with factory power train.

1971 Pinto Sedan "Wonder Pony" Watson Indy Roadster Indy Lotus the dual edition with choice of pushrod or DOHC engines. 1959 Pontiac Bonneville MPC Super Stock '70 Chevelle (or Jegs Camaro)the short track dirt track race cars.

'67 Camaro, no side marker lights.

Looks like Chrysler code F-6. A 1969 only color, I painted my '56 Chevy this color in 1970 it was six months into the year before paint companies got a formula to mix the color in anything other than lacquer.

Has anyone ever tried converting the V12 to a Ardun version? Just curious, might actually be a pretty cool hot rod, or rat rod engine.

Thanks, that's what I was thinking/hoping it was. Out of curiosity, what is decal 16 on the sheet?

When you DO get to the '56 plates you can make them read ZTV 292. That's what the plates on my 1:1 Chevrolet Bel-Air Sedan was.

I want to try a roof and trunk transplant from a Willys coupe, chopped it should resemble a Lincoln Zephyr, possibly a Viper engine with Ford valve cover name to represent a Faux Ford V-10, Webers instead of injection.

Pearl white, and dark violet inserts for seats with the dash top and door tops in exterior color, bottom sections pearl white, carpet in violet.

Got to get one, even though I have one of the '90s reissues still in a sealed box. But this has some neat stuff that one doesn't have because that one's a real reissue of the original. But the pictures look like it's a gray plastic, not white, just the photo?

Unless my old brain is worse than I thought, the bottom part of the decal sheet is from a fairly recent reissue, and the upper part is mainly from the original release. A lot of them I've got in my stash but I had a bad habit of cutting individual decals out and packaging them in pairs before storing them in a safe dry environment. But it doesn't help me remember what kit they were originally from.

I've fixed a couple of really messed up ones by first brush some hot liquid cement into the gap and letting it sit overnight then use some very thin strips of styrene sheet then sand the plastic to match the rest of the surface and after its set up for a couple of days rescribe the line and brush a coat of cement over the area before priming so the lines don't ghost back through your paint job.

Excuse me for not being exactly clear, what I meant TO say was that the bore spacing was almost a half inch difference, actually it's almost .400 difference but a tenth of an inch the way I measure is not even noticed, you know what they say about racers, measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, and cut with a torch. I'm sure that if you're a rivet counter repositioning the cylinder heads on the block is a necessity, but to me and other average builders it's not worth the work of redoing the intake manifold and the exhaust system to do something that for most of us wouldn't even be noticed IF we show the car with the hood open.

Actually all the early small block motors have the same 4.400 spacing but the LS engines vary from 3.898 to 4.100. So none of the LS series engines have the same bore spacing as the early small blocks not even the new 427 inch one.

Yes but the 396 isn't a small block, it's a big block, and they don't all have the same bore spacing.

You have to remember that the larger the bore the bigger the offset, if you are searching for the right offset do a 396-427 engine, that's the offset set you want, there's almost a half inch difference in bore over the 327.