LoneWolf15

Dan, Sorry , brother ! Answer is no , haven't tried it out and probably won't until fall ! Can't seem to even get a window as of late where I can even get into the booth due to the heat . I already made the decision to forego the fall softball season this year . Too far behind as it is ! I have at least 20 bodies and kits prepped and ready to go , just waiting for a couple of cool mornings with no humidity .

Ask around , my boy ! Syrup , son , pure syrup ! Lol ! No clear what so ever on this one , Mike ! Straight up Testors Competition Orange with a light polish out with the Novus 2 .

Monty , I know for a fact that the Revell street Willys rear tires will fit the MRC wheels . As for the front , I believe I used parts box tires from an AMT kit .

Wait ! Is this our Andy ? You know ! The one that beats himself up , says he can't paint , detail , build very well , etc ? Looks like you were doing yourself in needlessly , Kiddo ! Congratulations ! A major boost in the self confidence department ! Now , take it up a notch and head for the next level . As we have all told you , time and time again , the talent is there ! The word BELIEVE is all it takes !

Now there's a thought ! Lol ! Airbrush ! Enamels ! Yeah , Buddy !!!!

Dave , After reading through all of the posts , I think I'll side with Kenny on this . I believe you ended up with a badly mixed can of paint from the factory! After two weeks , it should have dried to some degree. Spraying clear over it won't help your problem . The base must be fully cured for the two step process to work properly ! Strip it and start over with a fresh can of paint . One more thing ..... You should still read the instructions ! Lol !

Get outta my head ! Very scary place to venture into ! Lol ! Exactly what I was thinking , won't be for awhile though ! I have way too many projects going as it is . This hot weather has put me way behind on the customer orders too ! Real life keeps-getting in the way too . Don't ya just hate when that happens ! Lol !

You have to wetsand the color coat before you apply your clear if you have orange peel in said color coat ! The smoother the surface to be painted , the smoother the finish !

Rich , Quick answer ...... Let it flashout , wetsand it smooth , polish it to a glass finish . Temperature and humidity can cause orange peel too . Be sure to mist coat your clear on just like your color application . As always , be patient ! It is natural to get excited when applying your clear , you start to see the shine and color really take shape . This is when you have to discipline yourself and not rush through the application ! Continue to mist coat until you have a uniform shine and overall smooth coverage . If you have a bit of orange peel after flashout , your polishing kit will take care of that right quick !

Too hot to move , eh ? Lol ! Testors clear top coat , wet sand under cold running water if necessary , polish out with Novus 2 , wax with The Final Treatment Detail Wax ! Oh , Jim ? Contrary to the recent popular belief ? This includes metallics , pearls , and candies !

Thank y'all for the kudos ! They are greatly appreciated ! As to whether it will be in September's show , as always , it now depends on the work schedule ! Which , by the way , is getting tiresome ! Lol ! Really nice kit to build , it practically falls together . Laid a Pearl X experiment overtop a custom Testor's mix using the violet pearl mixed with the clear . Bob Dudek valve covers and aircleaner , Detail Master wire and fittings , MAD super coil , and a two toned interior round out the billing

Ahhh, D ! I had such a blast building it too ! Lol ! Virg now refers to me as a cross dresser ! See what happens when you have an empty Raid can laying around ? Next weathered project is going to be even more fun and twice as tough , realism wise .

You know it ! Lol ! The same for the chrome silver ! Mastery ? Hardly ! I listened to an oldster , futzed with it and came up with a formula that worked , that's all ! Y'all need to relax and try it , it really is that easy ! As good of information that the Internet provides , Monty , it also provides the bad ! A whole lot is second hand plus knowledge , in other words , old wives tales . The enamels work , plain and simple , so do the primers ! Proof is in these pages , my friend !

Hummmph ! He'd look good hanging off of The Immolator's front blades . Now , if only someone would juuuuust produce him in figure form so I can perform said act ! Wonder who that could be ?

Yo ! D Just out of curiosity , do resin zombies cure quicker in the heat ? If so , get to pourin' , Boyo ! Lol !

Check your phone email , I think I hear the sound of a big diesel roaring towards you . Someone radioed that The Immolator was being sent your way !

Oh , Monty ? Don't tell anybody this . When I do primer , I use that stuff that everybody says never drys , you know , that Testors stuff ! Lol ! I can lay it down and be wetsanding it within 5 or 10 minutes , tops ! Fills in like a champ and wet sands to a glass like finish , no ghosting ! None !

The polishing doesn't eliminate the low spots but it does bring them to the forefront ! I usually start with 400 and lightly sand the entire body with it . The low spots now stick out like the proverbial sore thumb . The rest of the body is dulled down , the low spots are shiny . As you indicated , alot of the 60 & 70 era cars had their issues with this . More often than not , I simply fill the low spot with super glue . Just before it's completely dry , I'll begin to sand it which allows the plastic dust to mix with the glue and forms a putty of sorts . At times , I might have to add a tiny amount of glue again but patience is the key to proper prep . I believe Doc posted a photo of my Cobra gasser on this thread . All of the mounting holes for the lights and bumpers were filled in with this method on the Cobra . It won't shrink or reemerge after it's painted either , which is a big plus !

Now who would have known that ? Lol ! Hey ! Guys ! AMT 's ' 55 stepside kit , paint is Testors Competition Orange enamel , polished out with Novus 2 , no clear . Parts box wheels and tires , M.A.S. steel tubing for fuel , brakeline and carb linkage . Detail Master wire and fittings . Frame and motor have been slightly weathered along with the bed slats . Since I sent these photos to Doc , I've installed the mirrors , front turn signal , and taillights ! Still need to add tailgate chains and weather stripping around the windshield and rear cab glass . Still undecided as to whether or not I'm going to add the cab visor . Try as I might , I couldn't get the glass to fit properly . Read on the Forum a bit later how others addressed the problem , typical of my luck ! Lol ! Other than the glass issue , this kit is a very good one with excellent possibilities when it comes to different building avenues . I don't believe this will be my last attempt at this kit !

Just a suggestion ..... Want to avoid the ghost scratches ? Wet sand the body all the way up to 12000 before you apply the primer . Depending on what type of paint you're using , you could even forgo the primer stage . Simply wetsand the body under a steady stream of cold running water . And yes ! , the paint will stick to that smooth of a surface !

Too daggone hot to paint ! But I can build to my heart's content in the air-conditioned shop ! Lol! I told Virgil this afternoon that he could take back this 97 degree temperature that he sent up to the Burgh right quick ! You hear me , Doc ? Lol !

Monty , Fair question , arguable answer to follow ! Lol ! The reason I don't use primer is due to my method of prepping the body . Simply put , I don't need it ! When you sand a body carefully , taking it all the way up to 12000 , it's a piece of glass when completed . Using primer adds another layer or thickness to the body , possibly blurring out the body's detail . My method of prepping the body might be a bit unorthodox , but it does teach one to be focused and patient with the task at hand . Oh , by the way , for those who insist that the paint won't stick to such a smooth surface ? Look around this thread , I think the results will speak for themselves . The smother the surface to be painted , the smoother the finish !

No ! I use the metallizer under the metallics and pearls only . Standard colors are shot directly onto the bare plastic . The metallizer acts as a reflector for the metallics and pearls which isn't necessary when using your basic colors .

While I agree with the statement concerning the white enamel , the rest is totally off the mark ! Testors clear enamel laid overtop metallics , pearls , or candies does nothing but enhance the depth and richness of the color. As for the white enamel or other standard colors , clear is not necessary . Simply polish them out , and you will end up with a beautiful high gloss shine on your model's finish .

For all colors except the white , Mike is correct ! It will yellow with age over white . Simply polish out the white and you will have a beautiful shine without the clear !