ZTony8

Does the flake in the paint look as large in person as it does in the photo?

I bought the latest version to use as the basis for coming as close as I can to duplicating my car ( an'84 with the H.O engine and 5 speed). The kit tires are completely wrong for the car- the real cars came with 215/60R15 Goodyear Eagle GTs, not the E78-14(!) things in the kit. The kit's stock rims do scale out to 15 inches. The proper air cleaner and intake manifold are in the Miami Vice Ferrari Daytona kit.

Hmmmm- seems like a well built T-bucket or roadster street rod could clean up in Curbside. Interesting point about the undercarriage bits visible on a model. Results would vary dependent on the judge's viewing angle. How low do you go?

Gabriel Hi-Jackers and Lakewood traction bars- ah, the 70s.

The interesting thing is that for all the different Chapparal versions, C through G, there were only 4 or 5 tubs built. The old ones were just converted to the later versions( unless they were wrecked).

The regular retail price on the Lawman kit was somewhere around $25. Hobby Lobby's price hike was all on their own. So with the 40% off you ended up spending right about retail price. On the flip side- if Hobby Lobby pays the same price for the Foose pickup as the regular hobby shops do, then, with the 40% coupon, they make about $ 1.15 per kit. Anyone have any genuine insight as to what HL pays ( no guesses- I can do that)?

My call is 1958 Cadillac.

I'm curious as to how different the chassis, suspension, and engine will be from the earlier '68 and '69 versions. Will Revell be smart and use them or pull what they did with the '67 Firebird and '67 and '69 Camaros and end up with three different chassis pans and suspension pieces and two different big block Chevy engines in the Camaro kits?

Those were not Recaro seats, they were made by Lear-Siegler and were available in several trim colors.

You're going to laugh (or cringe) but I've had great luck using good ol' Testor body putty on resin bodies. It even smells like the resin bodies on which I used it.

I had one of the Lee Ferrari F50 kits. I sold a while back only because I had both the Tamiya and Revell versions. The Lee kit was crib on the Revell kit but ,to my surprise ,the body was better than the Revell kit. The Lee mold was apparently polished and the body was much smoother and shinier than the Revell kit.

That Caddy looks very savable, not a parts source.

I bought my copy of # 204 yesterday. I noticed the slot car mag (#5, I believe) when I was the Woodward Cruise a couple of weeks ago. At risk of agitating a hornet's nest I wonder if it wouldn't be better to suspend the slot car mag in favor of Model Cars magazine. If money is that scarce, then shouldn't it go the more popular publication? Or is the slot car mag more popular than the model mag? Understand that I'm not anti slot car at all. Just wondering about this. Anti sting suit donned and ready for responses.

Years ago I was going to an inventory of my kits and put them on my computer. I then realized I would have the inventory list I needed and no need to put it on the computer. But I never did make a list.

Quite easily doable since the '70 through '72 cars offered the big block as a factory option.

I worked for a Buick dealer who, in the mid 80s, sold one make of these lash-ups( the Johnson Phantom-they sold all of two from our store.) as a second line. They were based on Gen 3 Camaro Z-28s. The prep guys who drove them said they wandered all over the road. I can remember walking into work one Monday and seeing one of those things sitting there. I walked over and was looking at when the dealer principle wandered over and told me a bit about the car. He told me he had driven it up from Florida and that's when I noticed that the odometer still showed only delivery miles on it. I put two and two together and realized he had disconnected the odometer before driving it north. It turned out to be an omen. The dealer was later charged with odometer tampering and offering bribes to the purchasers to cover it up. Yes, GM eventually yanked the Buick franchise.

Michael's seems to have come to a point of stagnation with their model kit stock. No recent releases and stock on hand is dwindling. It's almost like they've lost interest in carrying model kits.

The "A" posts in my kit also were bent down, the body being crammed into the box on it's left side with the posts against the box side. I bent the posts upward without problem. What I notice is that there's a small overhang of the roof over the windshield header- way too small to be an external visor but big enough to look awkward. That awkward ( to me) color combo of blue body, white roof, and tan/ white interior should be changed. I'm thinking darker blue metallic( TS-64) with a dark silver/gray roof and blue and gray interior trim. Or maybe a body in a shade of tan/beige, or a pale yellow, and a tan/ beige, or pale yellow, and blue interior.

Odd that the '41 Chevy was burned but it's tires are still up.

Get a Molotow chrome pen( applicator size optional). That should repair the affected area very well.

My ex wife didn't care either way about my models. I didn't build much at that time and didn't have the stash that I do now. My daughter and I built a couple models together but she never developed a lasting interest, preferring other things. My mother has to live with me now because at age 89 she can't be totally on her own anymore. But she's the one who complains about the paint smell so I try to limit my paint time a bit.

The Peugeot 206 WRC. Any version, but I'd need to catch up on my sleep to have the energy to do the white 1999 version with the segmented Peugeot lion decal.

The '87 is the only Regal of that era out there but it's noticeably different than the 1980 on down version. It's longer with a sleeker nose and a different "C" pillar. It would take a LOT of work to make it look like a 1980 version. How developed are your scratch building skills? How about doing this, Juha Airio? Useless bit of trivia- on the real cars the 1980 and older hood could be used on the newer cars if you could find the little adapter brackets that GM made back then ( discontinued long ago) just for that purpose .

The HHR body is taken from a toy. Road something(can't remember the company name) is the one who made it. I have all 4 castings (2 Flintstone, 2 RMR). The RMR comes with an under carriage( from the PT Cruiser so some details are incorrect) and separate pieces for the grille, headlamps, instrument panel, mirrors, and rear valence. The windows are molded open but no clear inserts are provided. The Flintstone bodies are molded as one piece with the windows molded solid.( mirrors are separate and included ) and have the cowl area with wipers where the RMR does not have this ( I suspect the pieces are meant to be taken from the PT Cruiser kit.) The rear valence on both is incorrect- HHRs didn't have dual exhaust outlets. The Flintstone bodies are better as slammers or as customs, the RMRs would be a better start for a stock replica. In summary, both offerings will take a lot of work to be accurate stock builds

The Tamiya lacquers will NOT work over an enamel! Personal experience here. Yes, the clear pearl over a solid color looks great. Ace, you seem to apply TS-13 sooner than has been recommended. Have you experienced any of the infamous cracking for which TS-13 is famous?