Kit Karson

Paul, if we channel our combined efforts into another group build, I'm sure the inevitable will happen... more good tips & tricks will appear! -KK Here's a little ditty that came out during this thread: Where did your Revell '29 Model A kit come from? This PU bed came from "Nowhere"... This one was made in the U.S.A., and Where did your '29 PU/Roadster kit come from? -KK

You, my friends are being treated to following one of the best model builders I have met in my lifetime! Keep on keepin' on, Brother! -KK

Simply

Remember the Tranny Cross Member Alignment Posts? Holes were drilled to accommodate the Cross Member Alignment Posts Needed to klean up the Radiator parts and the Grille shell looking back at an early shot of the '29 PU Yard Sale... I had set aside a pair of driveshafts thinking that a kustom length was going to be needed... They both came from the Revell '32 Three Window Coupe Driveshaft Part #37 Mocked up the tranny and rear end... Measured for the kustom length... and found it to be almost the same length as the Deuce Driveshaft Part #37 Mocked up the tranny, driveshaft and rear end... It'll all snug up together once the rear end is attached to the frame! -KK

WOW! Great minds think a like! I'm still trying to decide if the doors will be operable or permanently secured... to that end, if I decide to glue them shut I will remove the pins and fill the holes prior to gluing the hinges to the cab door frame and painting; if I decide to allow the doors to swing I'll follow the TIP below. Here's the TIP for all REVELL pin-type hinges: Prior to painting: fun tack/silly putty applied in the "hole" & to the "pin" Prior to gluing: petroleum jelly applied to the "hole" & "pin" btw Set the bottom first with the door closed applying a dab of petroleum jelly applied to the inside of the door edge facing the hinge being glued. Same for the top hinge after the bottom hinge has setup either before or after painting, your choice. Instead of using the Revell Professional with the needle, use a drop of clear epoxy. It sets up stronger and allows time to align the moving parts before setting up. Worked on the '29 PU V-12 Midnight Auto Salvage Shop Truck

I like your thinking, Lee!

At the end of this update, I will have a piece of news to share... something you can quote me on, OK? Pulled the '29 Roadster Steering Arm #78 out of the box Wasn't really happy with the way the rear inner rim on the trailer wheels set... was a little deep.. and needed the outer rim extended. Decided to narrow the inner wheel rim from the original roadster pu version of the Revell kit Part #2 Compare the two before & after Side by side Sanded and slimmed down to fit Some time ago, I was cautioned about finishing the doors to swing or remain closed... Decided to go with painting the hinges the same as the body btw haven't really found a reference to the hinges Part #R55L anywhere in the instructions, have you? Y'all know what this is? A Yard Sale, right @Rocking Rodney Rat? Now for the latest braking news: @Dennis Lacy this 1929 Ford Pickup 80's Contemporary Street Rod - A Tim Boyd Tribute is headed to the paint shop! -KK

Very interesting approach... I'll be watching over your shoulder, OK? -KK

Plans and the final product are sometimes miles apart... keep in mind that this is your creation and inspiration can come from many different sources. Make it your own! -KK

Working on getting loose ends tied up... decided to go with the '29 Roadster crossmember (part# 141) A little CA Klamp it together While it's drying, drilled the hole in the tranny mounting pad... A little filling & sanding to smooth out the joints... -KK

Two things come to mind: Build your model as if it were a real 1:1 vehicle - street legal & truly made in scale to the degree that if it were going to be a used to build the real thing. Do your homework... if you're unsure how something goes together, the information is out there. Or, ask someone that has been down that road before. Second: A long time ago, Randy Durr commented on one of his models saying, "Treat every part as if it's a model unto itself!" Each rim is a model in itself... every tire, every single part is treated as a model of that part. Then, when it comes to assembling all of those individual model parts, the bigger model will come together in a more complete and concise manner. Resolve fitment issues before final assembly (try mocking it up using white glue... when satisfied, submerge in warm water and clean all the parts with a child's soft toothbrush.) -KK

As for my '29 PU, fitting the '29 Roadster steering column and the Model A Woodie dash into the PU cab required a bit of sanding the column down to fit through the loop: a little trimming on the outer ends of the dash and it will be a perfect fit! -KK

Tim, my biggest pet peeve is exactly that... we understand some of the short cuts the model manufactures take when they create the injection molds for some of the hot rod model kits, but it's up to we model builders to take some parts and modify them to the point of approaching the "real authenticity" of the parts and how they are built/made and/or included in our build-up rods & kustoms. Back when I first came across @Dennis Lacy(ADL) and his hot rod creations... I was impressed with his realism and his presentation and how the end results mimicked 1:1 hot rods of both earlier eras of the street rodding and current builds today. Only to find out, ADL grew up in the "SoCal" hot rodding community along side of his Father and the many other California rod builders. Then working along side of his Dad converting mechanical brake systems to hydraulic brake systems on thirties and forties era Fords. Having a real world upbringing in the southern California hot rodding community taught him the basics about construction and execution. ADL even went on to build his own '26/'27 Ford roadster. An old Instagram photo of the current owner from down under... His ability to take an average model and build it into a real-life representation of a car that either was or could be built as a 1:1 street rod amazed me and soon fostered a longtime friendship. When @Dennis Lacy& @Rocking Rodney Rattold me about the "Tribute" build, I cleared my bench and joined in immediately! What a honor and when told it was inline with one of my all time mentors in the street rodding world, I knew it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. There are so many good model car & truck builders that haven't had the real world experiences that a very few of us have had... being able to share some of those little tips & tricks is what this forum and your articles from long ago find to still be very relevant, today! -KK

WOW! Am I glad we got together, Brother! I will be following along, too! -KK

Had to pull the parts for the front end... Using the shorter split wishbones from the '30 Roadster Gotta trim off the rear mount Attached the hangers to the frame Decided to use the shocks & shock mounts from the any of the '32 Ford kits Notched the bottom of the frame to accommodate the shock mounts... these will be painted to match the frame and the shock smoothed painted. -KK

Something old; something new; something borrowed & something blue! -KK

OK! You've got my attention!!

We have the toys ready for the next show... The Mini-Bike is ready to paint!

The Mini-Bike will go in the back of the '29 PU...

One of the BEST! Good friend will be missed...

Maybe...

Fixed the Wagon-Kart Steering Wheel Stoll a hand brake from the '29 PU kit to add back the missing spoke... Fixed the throttle lever, too... Found the Wagon Kooler, helmet and R/C toys... Wagon Kooler Ball Hitch That's it for now... -KK

@chris chabrejust this once...

Killer @alan barton!

Kolor is awesome!