
Mr. Metallic
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Everything posted by Mr. Metallic
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Is anybody familiar with F&F Resin?
Mr. Metallic replied to Riser70's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Drag City Casting is still in business, but I don't believe he carries any of his dad's product line. @Riser70 you've come to the right place looking for information on the hobby. If you are under the assumption that resin kits you've seen produced by F+F are 3D printed that is simply not the case. They are resin copies of a physical master, so there are no files to buy. And any F+F product will probably bring a pretty penny since they have been out of production a long time and are of high quality. However, if you mean F+F like Fast and Furious that is a completely different matter. -
Looks like variations on those words may cause the issue as well? I typed up my post and got the Oops message. After i read through this thread I saw that I had the word "selected" in my post, put a space in the middle of the word and then it allowed me to post.
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Awhile back I mastered a phaeton conversion set for the Revell 32 Ford series. I commissioned Greg Wann to make copies for me, and I recently received them. I'm quite excited to build one so I cleared off the bench and got after it. It is meant to be a pretty simple build as sort of a marketing piece to show the easy compatibility with the Revell kits. So minimal mods or parts swapping will be involved. The conversion includes the body, interior floor, interior side panels, front seat, passenger compartment brace and both chopped and stock windshield. I did decide to use one of the dropped i beam front axles offered by Iceman Collections, and that took a little work with the wheel/tire combo I sel ected. I'm using Modelhaus Tires with the kit steelies. This combo made the front track much too wide. By trimming the wheel backs to nestle inside the tire and trimming the mounting post on the axle assembly I was able to narrow everything to an acceptable width. Here you can see the kit piece, mods in process, and the finished piece. Mods to the rear were limited to eliminating the airbags from the kit axle. Stance is now locked in thanks to the wheel/tire combo from Louverworks Resin Next up was fitting the 40 Ford dash from the Revell 32 5W kit into the interior. Just a little sanding to the corners of the cowl and dash to get them to nest together (since the part of the cowl on the interior of the 5W the dash was designed for is a right angle and the phaeton is curved). Please don't mind what appears to be loose fitment of the interior in the body. It's all a friction fit right now. And here it is, pretty much ready to start prepping the parts for paint. Hood is also by Louverworks. @68shortfleet
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Coming this year from Atlantis models
Mr. Metallic replied to Mr mopar's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
FYI, the 65 Barracuda is not from Moebius, but Round2. Probably before the end of 2025. -
Maybe the admins could merge these topics?
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LouverWorks resin parts
Mr. Metallic replied to 68shortfleet's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
I just finished adapting them to my 32 phaeton build. I'll be sharing pics soon. -
29 Ford Model A Hot Rod Pick up and Chopper
Mr. Metallic replied to James2's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
Well, even though I have 5+ of these 29 pickup kits in my stash already Revell has figured out how to get me to fork up more money for at least one of these with the inclusion of the long lost Harley. At least it's a great parts kit for vintage hot rods, and I like the white pinstripe flame decals. Hopefully it shows at HL so i don't have to pay full price 😋 p.s. wonder if they can pair the other parts pack motorcycles with other kits to get them back on the market? 🤞 -
Honestly not sure in the end that the 3D parts were worth the money. I'm sure someone with your talents could pull this off. The hardest part would be fashioning the rear push bar out of brass or plastic, and even that shouldn't bee terrible. The rollbar should be pretty straightforward to fab, and as you can see I didn't even use the supplied headers, I made mine. Everything else should be pretty much available from kit sources (which you're the hot rod kit king of Australia so I bet you have all the parts already 😉 )
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I do as well. Got it from Chris Chabre who is a member here. It will take a bit of work because most of the chrome is shot. But I will be building it to match my Little Drag, including the 12 spokes
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The Little Drag Here's another design proposal for what Monogram could have done but didn't. It's designed after the Big Drag, but 1/24 scale. This project started last year when 3D Scale Parts announced they were going to produce a set of 1/8 parts to turn the Big T kit into the Big Drag. I messaged the owner and asked him to please produce the set in 1/24 too and he obliged. I immediately ordered one and when I told my fellow vintage Monogram enthusiast Chuck Darnell about it he ordered one too. We decided to build them simultaneously as a fun challenge. The build started in earnest in February. I soon realized a couple things. The biggest issue was the supplied headers were much to wide to fit the Monogram block. Rather then modify the brittle printed parts I decided to fabricate my own by stealing the headers from a couple Revell 29 Ford pickup and cutting them apart and pinning them to a flange made from Evergreen. I also shortened the height of the roll bar by about 3 scale inches (I realize the one in the Big Drag is quite tall, so the printed part matches it well) I also don't care for the chrome reverse up front so I decided to swap in a set of 12 spokes from a Slingster. The blower came from my parts box, and the scoop is from the modern Revell 30 A kits. I scratchbuilt the interior floor, and cut apart a Little T seat to get the single bucket seat. The decal on the trunk was provided by Bob Spedding @TooOld Rear turtle deck is resin, I don't recall the supplier. Paint is Tamiya Blue Pearl, with lots of Revell Chrom used to make things chrome, especially the 3D parts. Magneto is from Morgan Automotive Detail. The darker blue build is by Chuck Darnell. thanks for looking, and on to the next phantom Monogram build.
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Flatheads with speed equipment
Mr. Metallic replied to junkyardjeff's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I amended my post. The first edition to have the Offy heads was the black stock build as the boxart from the mid-90's and later versions. -
Flatheads with speed equipment
Mr. Metallic replied to junkyardjeff's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
AMT 49 Merc has Offy heads and a 2 carb intake in the black box art version from the mid-90's and later Revell 40 Ford convertible and coupe hot rod kits have a 2 carb intake and heads Revell 48 Ford chopped coupe has Navarro heads and intake @tim boyd is the kit flathead expert -
First, welcome back. Second, I wouldn't straight up compare this one kit to anything that you built from Revell (or any other manufacturer for that matter). Both companies have been in business for over 50 years, so they have a lot of different tooling that vary widely in quality/design. Before your next build I would research a particular kit to see if it will meet your expectations first.
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This year's AMBR winner...
Mr. Metallic replied to Ace-Garageguy's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
In the past I have not been a big fan of any Ford 1935 and up without fenders, but this one really came out great. -
Just got caught up on this one, very cool stuff. But i see it's been awhile since any update. Hopefully that's not a bad sign.
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Aurora 1/32 scale Meatwagon - major restoration!
Mr. Metallic replied to alan barton's topic in WIP: Model Cars
It looks great Alan. Glad I was able to help you complete your collection in a small way. And now you have your minty hearse to build! 😁 -
Just caught up on this one. You're doing some cool stuff, hope you can keep it rolling.
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I love this idea. it's something I've thought about doing myself for awhile, so I'll be following along. My first interaction with a hot rod was when my dad bought a black 40 sedan with a mildly warmed over flattie, around 1986. I was 10 and thought it was so cool bouncing around the back seat. He didn't keep it very long before he traded it for a 55 Crown Vic that he went full custom on. But that 40 sedan holds a special place in my heart and someday I'd like the build a model of what he had planned for it. The AMT kit is fine, but I'd love to go with the Revell underpinnings like you are.
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Always something fun coming from your bench Bil. looking forward to it.
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My understanding is they upscaled their 1/35 military version and fleshed out the details a bit due to the larger scale. That's the nice thing about modern tools designed in CAD, up and down scaling is much easier.
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Got the parts box blower mocked up and the belt drive pinned to it, made provisions to run the drag link through the firewall and mounting the push bar to the rear end. Here is the second to last mockup, before I modified the rear wheels to fit the slicks better and finalized the front suspension/wheel mods. I think I am done with fabrication now, so it's on to paint/chrome prep.
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Then needed a seat for the driver. Luckily I had a Little T seat from one of my gluebombs that I was able to salvage. This required rebuilding the mounting boss on the underside and installing a pin on the floor for it to mount to.
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Fortunately I found a better starting point in a kit I have several copies of, the old Revell model A kits. I robbed sets of headers from 2 kits (because they are meant for a 4 banger) and set about modifying them to fit the SBC. Before cutting them apart I drilled a hole through the flange into each pipe so I could pin each pipe to the new flange made from .020 Evergreen strip. I cut the flange, transferred the location of the exhaust ports to the flange and then drilled the holes for the pins. I then carefully glued each pipe into its new home, making sure each one ended up parallel and flat with the last. Very happy with how they came out(bottom)
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I spent the bulk of the rest of my time fabricating the exhaust. As you can see here the headers provided by 3D Scale parts were too wide and the spacing was wrong. I thought about cutting it apart and making a new flange, but printed parts are not the most forgiving with being cut apart.