Mr. Metallic

Are you sure you're not thinking of the OneCoat line (now Extreme lacquer)? Some say that those paints hard a "too large" flake, which honestly varied quite a bit from can to can from truly too-large to acceptable (in my opinion). But also in my opinion the Model Master 2 part lacquer paint line had reasonably small metallic particles.

Way to see the silver lining. ? My comment wasn't to say it was necessarily a detriment to the product, just that the result would be a similar loss of fidelity like we already experience with kit supplied chrome. Which is sometimes no noticeable loss at all as long as the undercoat isn't applied to thick.

That stuff for nails is interesting. I'm making an assumption that the UV cured resin should be similarly as thick as the lacquer undercoat on our kit supplied chrome parts. So there will be some minor loss of fidelity in the part. From the video it looks like some parts are quite reflective, but not an overall mirror finish. I wonder how much of that is the finish of the part itself? That video featuring the MOMO chrome paint is interesting. But I'm not sure what benefits it offers over Alclad II. Really thinking about pulling the trigger on the Alsa Chrome, but it's an expensive pill to swollow

Man this thing is wicked cool. Great save Mr Goscke, although now I'm seeing this it from 12 years ago. Still, I'm glad it got revived so it can get more eyballs on it. I love the taillights, headlights and stance.

@John Goschke

Very clean build. Nice job making it more accurate to the real car too. I've been thinking about doing the same since the RJ article came out. The front wheel solution is a great idea!

Anthony, I totally understand the conundrum you're faced with. I'm not a person that believes everything old should be 100% preserved when it comes to models. Sometimes it's better to "fix", finish, alter or completely blow apart an old build. For me it's on a case by case basis. I had not noticed the tire melt when I first saw the pics. If it was just the roof I would body work it and paint it the same off white, but since it's on the hood too trying to match that blue paint will be near impossible. So I understand your want to modify it or recreate it. But once you do that you lose all the charm of the original. Like I said, a conundrum. In this case I would build my own new version of it because the style points are what really make this one work for me with the appearance of the top chop and the blue beetle wheels give it such a kool attitude.

Oh man, I wouldn't touch that thing, it has so much vintage cool factor. The hand painted pinstriping, the use of Monogram Woody Wagon wheels. Nice little time capsule

The came out of my parts box. so I don't know with certainty, but I think they may have been from the Johan 30 Mercedes coupe?

Since the A roadster has been back for 18+ months and the 5w less than a year I'd say we're probably at least 2 years away from any modified tooling of those kits. A different body style with a flathead would be great (please Revell, no more Edelbrock flattie speed parts. Something different please. The Navarro heads in the 48 coupe were a step in the right direction ? )

While I was wrapping up completion of the "Simple" 30 Coupe build I remembered that I had completed another 30 coupe 5 years before so I took a couple pics of them side by side. Then I realized that I hadn't really shared that build on any of the forums that I frequent because I wasn't happy with the pics I took at the time. So I took some new pics, and can now share it with you. (I apologize for the dust) Here's a summary of the parts I used. (It's been 5 years, so I'm doing this from memory) If you have any questions feel free to ask. body- Altered States further chopped top, Tamiya military color frame- Revell 40 Ford x-member front suspension- Revell 40 Ford rear suspension- Revell 40 Ford Grille- Revell 29 Ford pickup Engine- Model Car Garage Offenhauser intake, AMT 49 Merc Offenhauser heads, Replicas and Miniatures of Md Edmunds air cleaners, scratchbuilt right angle distributor. wheels and tires- Modelhaus Here's link to the build thread if you're interested. https://trakinscale.proboards.com/thread/17862/30-coupe-ala-dennis-finished

Thanks for sharing these Tim. What a great throwback. In your notes or do you recall what Jack used to create the rear bodywork on the 34 cab? It's obviously based on the Monogram (ZZTop) 34 Body. i started a similar conversion based on the AMT 34 5 window body after seeing Jesse James stunning 34 RPU. It's been a few years so I don't recall what I used for my rear bulkhead, but I remember not being completely happy with it. Jacks looks great, so I'm curious what he used.

I wanna play too @tim boyd and i know @NitroMarty has seen this in person ?

This is looking great Chris. Really like how you extended the steering column for mockup purposes so you can see where the steering wheel ends up. The tires look really good. It's hard to tell from the angles but they are big n' little's, no? In my opinion the offset on the front wheels looks a little deep, but could be a camera trick or something. I'm very interested in the wheels/tires as they are right up my alley as far as build style.

I have a Shapeways order coming that has one of these QC's in it. Chris @Spex84 designs some killer stuff, so those of you into hot rodding should definitely check his stuff out. Brian, on another forum I have also suggested to Chris he should develop a similar setup for the Revell 32's, especially with this kit coming back. Fitting it to the Revell 32 would take a little more work by the builder than the frame from the model A kits since the floor is molded in. But I think that's a modification even a novice builder should be able to handle.

I've switched to the refill bottles. Been applying it with a fine point brush, which is easier than with the pen tips anyway. It's great not having to worry about fussing with the pen tips all the time. Once I get my spray booth built i will be trying airbrushing it as well.

I've never heard of a sagging issue with solder. Not saying you're wrong, I've just never heard or witnessed that happening.

Normally at room temp Super Clean works within a day or two. I'm thinking you may want to change the type of remover you're using.

I use Lacquer thinner for all my brush cleaning needs. Tamiya acrylics, Testors enamels, Molotow, Vallejo.

I don't believe it was in the 3500 street machine. I think it was in the stock extended cab c1500 snap kit.

I really hope there is. Otherwise the chances of buying the "bad" stuff is still very possible from online retailers, swap meets and hobby shops.

Are you still having issues? Not all Enamels are created the same. They all have different formulations and ingredients which make it hard to use a blanket statement of "this product strips this type of paint" Like Peteski said, sometimes experimentation is necessary. My go to strippers are Super Clean and 91% alcohol. I keep a tote of each at my workbench. If one doesn't work, the other generally does. In the event that those don't work I move onto other means like Easy-Off (yellow can) oven cleaner, Citrus Stripper, and Easy Lift Off.

In my experience, Super Clean is safe on most clear parts included in styrene injection molded kits.

I've developed a real affinity for these kits over the last few years. They build up so well with just a bit of paint detailing, as you've shown here. Well done.

Very nicely executed build. Great color choice.