Mr. Metallic

Chassis is looking good. Looks like you got the stance locked down.

This is looking good. You're nailing the short wheelbase look of the Kookie and Tweedy T's

There are more parts than just the wheels and tires that are worthwhile in the new tool AlaKart. The front axle is nice, and the frame/suspensions are well done. There are also aspects of the body that are more accurate than the original. The engine is nicely rendered from a tooling aspect, although completely undersized as has been debated ad-nauseum here and everywhere else since the kit came out. @Dave Darby is something of an expert on these kits @Ace-Garageguy also did a very nice comparison thread a few years ago

It's only been 1 1/2 years since this thread was started when photos of the 3d scan in progress were shared. And due to the fact that those pics were pulled down within 24 hours by Revell points to it having been shared before the company intended to announce it. Normally when they announce a project they are much further along than that point in the design process, so that's why it feels like longer than normal. Throw in a global pandemic and that will certainly slow things down. I'm pretty sure James Duff and/or Tim Boyd gave a brief update on this last year after speaking to Revell and it is definitely still coming. @tim boyd @niteowl7710

AMT 1330 -- George Barris Ala Kart Sooooo, I'm going to assume this is the New tool kit from 20 years ago? Highly doubt the pulled the trigger on re-engineering the actual missing Ala Kart parts for the 29 Ford tooling. Although they did the new wheels a few years ago. Hmm Feel free to slap me to wake me up from that day dream.

I'm confused. At first i thought I had accidently stumbled on an old post. The weekly 40% coupon that you could use on "anything" in the store was discontinued a year ago. So I'm curious what the checkout person was talking about.

Finally had a chance to do some sample spoons. The color will be Model Master Dark Cherry metallic. This color apparently has a good amount of pigment because there's not much difference between the three colors of primer. The top one is red, and that skews a little warmer than I want for this build, so looks like I'll be spraying everything with grey primer since there is virtually no difference between the grey and black.

Thank you. I guess it's time for me to bring it on home as they say. Once I get to the point where I'm ready for paint is when I start losing interest in my projects it seems. But since it has developed a following that may be what it takes to keep this moving forward. Squirrel! ?

Thanks for sharing these. Fun to watch.

Glad to have been your inspiration. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the 32 Roadster tooling ended up in China since it was reissued within the last 10 years. if that's the case it's not something Atlantis would have. ☹️ But it's fun to daydream

Looking good. I keep forgetting to ask, what is the source for those blower. It looks like a S.C.o.T. style, but looks bigger than the Rep+Min piece.

Very cool build. The color combo is very subtle, and you did a nice job of combining new and traditional design elements. Very nicely done. What did you use for wheels and tires?

That has a nice line to it from front to back. Nice conversion work.

Love this series of kits. I've built 2 Little Deuces so far. I have a couple of these SoF's broken down to build one good one, hopefully this year (the year of the Deuce!) It's cool to see this in an alternative color. Everyone does orange, which is cool. it's just neat to see a different take.

The arms are now slightly outboard of their original mounting point. Holes highlighted in red edit- thank you for mentioning that. I took a pic but forgot to add that step to the front end mods. I have gone back and added it now.

Looking back over all the posts I've made on this project I guess I left out a couple things. So I'll address those before I get into the paint stages. First, the K member. The Model A kit provides a nicely done tubular crossmember to support the tail of the transmission and provide a mounting point for the suspension arms. But it's too modern for this build, so I decided to swap in a modified K member from a Revell 32 kit. The top member in the pic is straight out of the 32 kit. I cut off the suspension bracketry at the back, and slightly opened up the underside to help avoid any clearance issues with the exhaust and trans. Otherwise this member slips right between the frame rails as it should since they are both 32 Ford parts. A critical point to address is the front suspension arm pivot points. I am not a perfect person, and forgot a key issue, so I apologize to anyone following along and actually using this build as a blueprint for their own build. But, being a hot rodder is often about improvisation, so I had to improvise a fix. Despite having performed this alteration a few times before I didn't usually use the molded notches in the frame. When I moved the front axle in front of the spring this made the suspension arms too short to use the molded in notches in the frame that accept the bracket. Unfortunately I thinned my brackets down too much when I molded them into the frame, so salvaging them was not an option. Instead I cut them off and sanded the area smooth in preparation for making my own. I used .030 x .100 Evergreen for the new brackets. First, mock up your front end, including the arms, and mark where you need your new brackets to be. Then take your plastic strip and drill a hole near the end to accept the pin in the arm. Sand a gentle radius in the end, and then cut the strip, leaving it long enough for trimming later. After you let the glue set fully, trim the upper part of the strip flush with the top of the frame. Now we're ready from priming and paint.

I would stack discs of evergreen together to get the stepped profile of the caps. Or you can cut slivers off the end of styrene rod, but can be tricky to get flat slices. You can buy a leather punch that works great for punching out discs of plastic from sheet. It's like a big hole punch that people that do leather work use to make holes. It has a wheel on it with multiple sizes. Should be about $10

Super Clean should cut right through those decals, 91% alcohol should work as well. Mineral spirits can be used to loosen poorly glued joints. Use a small brush and flow it into a joint. Wait a couple minutes and then try gently flexing the parts apart. It may take several applications. Like Ace said, if the parts are glued well there is no solvent that will "break" them apart because they are now one piece. However, builders back then didn't always use plastic glue to put things together. and if they didn't scrape chrome/paint away as they assembled then the glue may not have penetrated. Disassembling a vintage build can take a multitude of techniques. If one thing doesn't work, try another. But in the end it can be quite rewarding.

Very cool, and so much fun. You captured the sense of movement well. Nicely done.

Weathering looks great, not too heavy handed which is easy to do. I love the look of this era car as well. Not much of a modern race car builder myself, but if I can find one of these kits someday I may give it a try.

Stunning paint work on this, and the new top adds a graceful elegance to it.

First, welcome back to the hobby. We must be similar age because I graduated high school in 95. The relief cut method for lowering the front end is a classic mod, and one that I love because it retains the elegant sweep of the Deuce frame. Well done. The way you executed the rear end drop seems to have worked for you. Stance is looking good. As far as glues go, I'll make a couple suggestions. I only use the "cement" type glues when I want something to have structural strength down the road because it takes awhile to cure, like you've done with your frame mods. I'm a little impatient, so I use super glue whenever possible, but I prefer the "thick" glue from Hobby Lobby in the yellow bottle. The regular and thin stuff runs all over too much for me. The thick stuff isn't actually thick, it's just thicker than the regular. If you mess with the accelerator (which I only use occasionally because super glue tends to cure quick enough for me) spraying it is too messy for me. Look in the same area at HL for bottles with a needle applicator and put your kicker in there. Much more precision application that way. Put a drop of glue on one part, and a drop of accelerator on the other and then join them. Near instant cure. If you would like a few more tips on building this kit (I'm building the sister kit, the 30 coupe), check out this thread.

Thank you for the interest. The pins I use are found in the sewing section of any store. They are used to pin pieces of fabric together to hold them while sewing or preparing for alterations. You get a small container of them for less than a couple bucks. I have purchased one size that is just over and inch long for general purpose, and a package of shorter/smaller diameter ones for pinning really small items. Once you buy a package take a few small drill bit s and drill test holes in scrap plastic to find the correct size for the pins to fit in snug. Since i pin stuff constantly I have a dedicated pin vise with the correct size bit in it all the time on my bench so it's ready to go any time I want to pin something. Also, save the pin heads when you cut them off, as they can be used to simulate bolt heads and such. They also make great approximations of the old "drawer pull" type grille inserts for 50s/60s rod and customs.

@Ace-Garageguy, seems like I've seen you do something like this before?

I dig what you've got going on here. I've seen that front end many times before on this vintage Corvette build, but nobody ever shows the back end. I like it a lot. Now I'm going to have to try to find one myself.