Mr. Metallic

Normally at room temp Super Clean works within a day or two. I'm thinking you may want to change the type of remover you're using.

I use Lacquer thinner for all my brush cleaning needs. Tamiya acrylics, Testors enamels, Molotow, Vallejo.

I don't believe it was in the 3500 street machine. I think it was in the stock extended cab c1500 snap kit.

I really hope there is. Otherwise the chances of buying the "bad" stuff is still very possible from online retailers, swap meets and hobby shops.

Are you still having issues? Not all Enamels are created the same. They all have different formulations and ingredients which make it hard to use a blanket statement of "this product strips this type of paint" Like Peteski said, sometimes experimentation is necessary. My go to strippers are Super Clean and 91% alcohol. I keep a tote of each at my workbench. If one doesn't work, the other generally does. In the event that those don't work I move onto other means like Easy-Off (yellow can) oven cleaner, Citrus Stripper, and Easy Lift Off.

In my experience, Super Clean is safe on most clear parts included in styrene injection molded kits.

I've developed a real affinity for these kits over the last few years. They build up so well with just a bit of paint detailing, as you've shown here. Well done.

Very nicely executed build. Great color choice.

That color is really nice, but man that stance is KILLER! Nice job

As HOT ROD mag used to say back in the day, Dare To Be Different. And that's exactly what you pulled off here. We're both kids of the pro-street era, so you know this build tugs at my heart strings. Haven't waded into the pro street nostalgia pool myself yet, but this and the Tim Boyd tribute build really has my gears turning. As always, a master class in pulling together the right parts from all over the place. Nailed it!

Cool to see one of these built. I think the yellowing of the headlights worked in your favor. Makes them look like the tinted racing lights.

This thing is wicked cool. You nailed the look of the naugahyde. But what really sells this build for me is the wheel swap. Much more indicative of what the real car would have run on the flats or even at the strip.

Very nice build. I was patient and scored one of these for about half the retail a new one of these kits sells for. It's not a subeject I usually build, but based on the good things I've heard about the kit and the fact it's such an iconic vehicle, i just had to have one

The stance and wheel/tire package are great. Really surprised Fred Cady didn't offer the McMullen flames at some point. I know he did the AlaKart, and I think he did the California Kid too. With the upcoming Revell 32 roadster retool coming closer to the McMullen car, maybe someone like Slixx will step up with the correct flames? Just daydreaming I guess.

Your metal finishes are just spot on. I know there are quite a few actual metal parts on this build, but it's almost impossible to tell the difference between metal and painted plastic on this build. Well done!

Met the man, the legend, at the GNRS this past January. He is very gracious and kind. My wife said I was star struck He said he liked my shirt ?

In the original version it was actually a full length Carson-style top in the kit. It got modified into the half top sometime along the way The roof imitates the roof of the 52-54 Victoria body style.

I wasn't a regular here back during all the hullabaloo surrounding this kit. Glad I missed it, although for some reason I just subjected myself to reading all 19 pages of content. I can't imagine what was in the 11 pages worth of content that were deleted. Now I know why this is the "kit that won't be named" around here. The only reason I even investigated this thread was after following along with Dennis excellent build and news of the reintroduction of the corrected resin body to see what I'd be dealing with if i did decide to purchase the currently available drag version of this kit.

Corrected the decals? So the one that came out within the last 3-4 years is wrong? If so, what's wrong? I thought they tooled up a couple missing parts for the latest release too?

Can you explain in a little more detail the issues you had with the shock/headlight mounts? I haven't heard of any issues before now.

You left out the part where I said it was ALL NEW TOOLING. Even if they didn't use the same masters, the RR parts all work with the older R/M deuce series parts as far as interchangeability goes. That's the point I was trying to make

Now that the Simple 30 ford is done I can get back to this one. Randfink and I are having a build-off, and the deadline is June 1st. So I better get rolling. Decided to sort out the wheel and tire selection first. I really like the wheels in the Moebius kit, but something about the slicks leaves me cold. I don't think there's anything "wrong" with them, I just don't care for them. So, I set about to modify the kit rear wheels to fit a pair of the AMT Parts Pack slicks. Since I like the front tires from the kit this is a perfect opportunity to use up one of the cool red and white striped slick sets (really wish Round 2 would see fit to give us some matching red and white fronts, but oh well) Moebius wheels feature ribs around the outside of their wheels, which must be removed to be used with just about any other manufacturers tires. However I decided not to completely remove all the ribs. The AMT slicks have a groove in the middle of the tire, so I decided to see if could still use the ribs to my advantage. I completely removed about 1/2 the ribs, and the other half I trimmed away the outer half (highlighted here in red). This allowed the wheel to fir very securely in the AMT tire. No other mods were necessary, so here's the complete assembly Now it's time for a proper mock up. Note to others building the Moebius gasser kit, the instructions don't say which set of holes to drill our for the rear springs. Well, it's the outer set of holes. Don't ask me how I know. Now, where's my filler, lol

This build is now complete. Thanks for following along for the ride.

"Simple" That was the idea behind this build when I started it, and I was able to hold true to that sentiment through to completion. The idea was to take a pretty great kit, Revell's new-ish Model A kits, and perform some moderate changes to make it a more traditional rod with parts that were pretty readily available and techniques that just about any modeler could perform if they put their mind to it. So I present to you, the Simple 30 Ford 5 window Here's a quick rundown of the parts I used. For a complete step by step description of how I built it follow the link below. Body- Altered States chopped top and Archer louvers applied to trunk Paint- Testors Dark Cherry Pearl lacquer. Tamiya Racing White and Champagne metallic rear wheels and tires- Monogram 41 Lincoln (wheels are Lincoln outer rims with Revell 40 ford inners) front wheels and tires- Revell 40 Ford Standard coupe Hubcaps- AMT 56 Ford grill/radiator- Monogram 29 Ford pickup rear axle- Monogram 30 Ford Woody steering wheel- R/M 50 Ford pickup Intake setup- Revell Tweedy Pie intake, kit carbs, Maple Leaf Model Works carb scoops Valve Covers- AMT 55 Chevy pickup Just about everything else was sourced/modified from the Revell 30 Ford coupe kit Here it is with the 30 Coupe I built from the original issue of this kit 5 years ago Just wanted to thank Tim Boyd as he has inspired so many of my builds and techniques over the years. Thank you for all you've done for this hobby @tim boyd

It does not. This tooling is from the series of 32 Ford that Revell/Monogram started back in 1996 with the 3 Window/Roaster/Speedwagon, and then continued with the Tudor sedan and lastly the 5 window coupe. However, the Rat Roaster, which became available in 2013 was all new tooling. But the tooling was designed for full compatibility with the previous 32 Fords.