Mr. Metallic

I'm very interested in a set of these wheels for a vintage speeder I'm formulating. Please let us know when they are ready, and if they fit any other, more widely available kit tires

Maybe an admin can take all this Revell discussion and move it to the appropriate thread? Is it possible to cherry pick certain posts to move?

Is the tire separate from the wheel? They look pretty nice so far

That's what I was afraid of, so that's why I ask. And now others are aware of the issues too. Thanks for taking the time to relay your specific experience

I did a search and the only things that come up about him are in one of the "recaster alert" threads. I won't knowing buy a recast product of another casters product. But what caught my eye was the 427 DOHC engine he is doing that is a copy of the Moebius Comet engine. For half the price of the whole kit I was entertaining the thought, depending on the quality.

Has anyone bought their resin? I've seen them on eBay, and they have a few pieces I'm interested in. Seller is listed as meditrans65.

Ok, lets keep this thread going. I'm a huge fan of 32 Fords, and I'm always looking for building alternatives for the Revell 32 kits. A closer to stock build could prove quite interesting. 1- if someone was to use the beautiful Rep+Min frame, or modify the Revell kit frame, what would be a source for a good rear crossmember? Would the Revell 40 Ford piece work, especially since it's a separate piece already? 2- Wheels- Would the 34 Ford wires work? I know the Monogram pieces are technically 1/24, but mixing scales doesn't bother me if they're close. What about an alternative source? How about the wire wheels in later issues of the Monogram 30 Woody? 3- Front axle. The detail on the AMT kit piece isn't great, so how about an upgrade. Personally a slight drop would be acceptable, but I know others out there would be interested in bone stock 4- engine. As suggested, the AMT 34 Ford 5W stock version has a very nice flattie. I'm sure there may be small details different between the years that i could sort out, but specifically the bolt pattern on the head(water inlet could be different too. Is the one represented in the 34 kit ok for 32. Or are the heads in the AMT 32's correct? Sorry, I can't easily do these part comparisons on my own since most of my kits are in storage.

Not to be a jerk, but just do a search here for Reliable Resin. Several threads about them. And it's more than just a couple dissatisfied customers. It's a definite trend formed after years of poor customer service

Seek out Drag City Castings. The owner, Ed, is a member here. So you can message him directly if you like. He does make some drag associated items, including ladder bars. He has just recently brought back his line of racing hoods, and he has a ton of wheels that would be gasser appropriate. Here'a link to Drag City Castings Fotki page. His casting work is excellent. https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/

The Lil John Buttera T Sedan kit (bottom right on combo kit pictured above) is actually pretty nice, and to my understanding accurate. But when Revell tried to fit a 34 Ford body on the much smaller T chassis, that is what made that 34 kit highly inaccurate.

FYI, years ago Tim Boyd did an article in the other magazine about turning the OBS closer to stock(though still a street machine), which might be worth a look before you start yours.

I heartily agree with this sentiment. However, this hood would make the fine basis for a spray booth, with it's integrated lights and hood structure. if it is like a typical range hood, build a box for it to rest on and upgrade the fan. Could be cool., and it would save someone money on materials.

According to Tom Carter from Spotlight Hobbies these kits are "on the water" over from China, so we are supposed to see them in May

Some new items i got for Mapleleaf Modelworks Ford Y-Block dress up parts. they look great on the Revell 57 Ford engine And some Buick Nailhead headers and valve covers

Off to an interesting start. i'll be following

According to Tom Carter (Spotlight Hobbies/Hobby Heaven) these should be available mid-May

Man, this came out great. Cool concept, well executed. And the rear window actually just adds to the used look of the vehicle. Very cool

I've seen Josephs carbs before, and even own a set, but seeing them finished is mind blowing. And the way you've detailed out the rest of the engine is coming out really nice. Well done

If you decide you want to remove the paint, find a can of AirCraft Stripper (either spray or liquid forms are available) Don't use it on plastic parts because it can harm them Then, get some Etching primer. That bites into the metal better for adhesion purposes, and can take just about any hot paint over it.

The OneCoat Wet Look Clear is actually pretty good. I use it on the Testors Model Master lacquer series and Tamiya lacquers as well. You should apply it within 15 minutes of your last color coat, or wait a few days and apply it.

For the sake of realism it would depend on the era of the cars you're building. I'm not a NASCAR expert, but for the last 25 years or so(experts please correct me) the sponsor logos on the vehicles have been "stickers" which have a texture to them. And even more recently than that they have switched to full body wraps, as JC shared below. So, you would want the decals to appear with a sheen to them, not be super glossy. But, if you're simply looking to seal the decals to the body, clear over.

The 1:1's always were a slick looking vehicle. The upgrades you made to yours were well worth it. Nice build

I'm glad to see the 23 T back, and I will definitely get one. It looks like it has some cool and unique parts. But, based on my experience with 70's tooled kits with their vague attachment points, that multi-piece frame could prove tricky to build

You missed my point by focusing on the wrong part of my original statement. Yes, i understand that the companies are generally making improvements to the reissues. But my point is, regardless of how they obtained the tooling, their purchase of raw materials, development costs, etc...they are still pricing themselves out of the market, and any chance of developing a market for after the builders from the golden and platinum age of this hobby have passed on. They are shooting themselves in the foot by increasing the prices to the point where whatever kids(or younger builders) would be interested in the hobby can't afford it. And an additional note on pricing, even just 20 years ago, most of us could afford a lot more "splurge" purchases of kits that we wanted but probably would never end up building. Or buying kits just for parts. Those sales have essentially dried up because of the disproportionately higher prices of kits now. Yes, the market is shrinking due to lack of interest, purchasing pool dying off and many other reasons. But they are not helping themselves at all by pricing their product higher and higher. So, back to your point, Hobby Lobby may not be good for our hobby in the long run, but what are we supposed to do as a purchasing public? If I limited my purchases to only my LHS, I would make far fewer purchases overall. Meaning fewer sales for the model companies. Meaning less money to keep the ball rolling. Meaning fewer potential items for me to purchase, meaning less money to keep the ball rolling, and so on. They see lower sales over the course of time and assume it's because whatever they are offering isn't popular, or the market is dying off. When in reality, if their prices were lower they would sell more.

When you start getting into modifying bodies, especially contours and such, you'll want to move into 2 part fillers. Gman gives a good explanation above. I use U-POL Dolphin Glaze (yes, weird name). I get it on eBay, and typically can find it for $20-22 including shipping. Sands well, dries quickly, and doesn't shrink. As far as one-part fillers, switch to Tamiya grey in the tube. Feathers well, but takes several hours to harden to a sandable state. I use it for smoothing of textured ares and final surface prep before primer. It does shrink if applied to heavily, so that's why you should avoid it for heavier work.