Foxer

It seems to me someone was just doing that here in On the Workbench section. It has to be less than a couple weeks ago.

No one seems to have heard from Ryan for a couple months and I'd have to guess he's in a personal crisis. I'd be sure he's not ignoring you on purpose and will make good when he is able. It's unfortunate you got caught in the middle .. especially with the quality of his wheels. Wish I could give you some facts.

Some interiors are well hidden so you can get away with more. Still, it always pays to be as neat as you can painting an interior .. or doing anything else as far as that goes. I does take experience over many models to get it all right and don't be too hard on yourself. You WILL see improvements as you build more. I always use a decal if it's available rather than trying to paint some micro detail. And remember .. you are the one you have to please.

I use an airbrush (if you want to call my results pro,,,) but I've seen people that can do it with a spray can. I think an airbrush does a much better job and is "easier" to get a good finish. I jsut hate all the mess and bother with air brushes to use all the time.

I was a structural engineer for 35 years (still am licensed, but retired) working for Hill Engineers, Architects, Planners, a small 50 person consulting firm. We did everything needed for buildings and started as paper mill experts. You ALL have samples made in the first building I designed ... a new paper machine plant for Crane & Company here in Dalton, MA ... they make 100% of US Currency paper there! ... yes, it has a green aura inside! I've done work in over 1000 paper mills around the world but with the decline in the industry in the US we worked on commercial, educational, residential and just about anything else that came along. I loved going to work every day as every new job had something new I had never done before. It was a lot like modeling nowadays!

I'm thinking a small brass rod drilled into both sides and JB Welded in place.

ah .. a winter truck! ..are those snow tires? That's some serious frame work, Nick. It's looking good..

That's interesting. I do see your point though it's probably too late now. For various reasons, one being clearance to the fender, the lights kept moving up little by little. In the end centering them on the body molding looked right but they would have looked good with the tops level with the molding. The fenders didn't want them this low.

This needed the primer to say the hood is done! I just saw pasting this show up that I can make some clearance inside the rear fenders that will allow the rear wheels to straighten up a bit. Amd it looks like the headlight lenses will fit ... will have to see if I like the look or not. Gonna start a search for something to fill the grill not starting with some fine screen. Any ideas will be welcome.

Thanks for that photo, Jason! That is a good looker. The grill caught my attention .. this is similar to what I had in mind. I need to find a mesh or screen that will contour to the curve of the front. EDIT: OH MY! .. I looked up that roadster and saw it's a VOLVO concept! ... who would have thought.

That suspension is mind boggling in it's beauty!

I wish I had some of my old builds from the 50 and 60's. All were thrown out when clearing my things out of my Mother's attic! I do have the hood off a '40 Ford Sedan I chopped, channeled and sectioned along with many other modifications back in 1962 when I was 16. Here's a couple badly taken and scanned photos of the whole car also ... all there is left of it I paint a little better now ... this was my first candy paint job.

I've used watch crystal cement for a number of years to glue windows in. I just tried Testors window cement and I don't particularly like it's thinness and starting cloudy color. I like how crystal cement behaves ... thickness, tackiness and clearness but it's stringy and it's difficult to use without making a mess. By stringy, I mean when picking some up on a toothpick it stays attached to the original drop be a thin string of glue. Is all crystal cement like this is my question. Does anyone have experience with some that isn't stringy? This is what I have. It seems a commonly available brand.

Nice rescue on this ... but nothing with the original .. it's what got you started into this!

This is all done so well! I like every little detail you've done and the finish is just right.

That's courageous cutting the hatch into the tail lights like that! ... outstanding work as it looks beautiful!

Very nice bodywork on the hood ducts. Goes to show what can be done with simple shapes.

Thanks for these comments guys! Now I'm figgiting with the rear and planning to extend the fenders across the body. There's a crude photo in a question I asked here about bending the edge to match the fenders. I'm also thinking of inserting the Prowler tail lights in the ends of the fenders. This would be a hole cutout and insertion but I'm still debating it while thinking of other options.

I like that color .. this has a great look to it! Nicely done1

I know what you're saying cause I think my fingers are going "senior". I did use brass strips and epoxy after some breaks and that has worked fine.

The hood was much more work than I thought, but half of it was reinforcing and re-gluing the joints! It just needs a little putty along the headlight pod edges before primer! I had to cut some pretty big holes to allow the headlights to slip in from the rear. The body trim was extended onto the hood with triangular strips. I also got the front wheels spaced and ready for mounting. It took 3 cylinders in plastic and brass for mounting. The rears are similar but only needed 2 plastic tubes.

VERY nicely done!

Nice to see all those 2CV's looked new once! This is looking really good.

How can I use words to describe this beauty ... I'll just look at the photos and count the days to NNL East!

I appreciate all the suggestions! This gives me something to think about now ...