Foxer

Nice grouping. I see VW Dave here has some company..

That thing is straining at it's chain!

All it needs is a V8 now. Very good looking.

This is one instance where using the Gunze frame may work easier. The initial fit may need more massaging to get it into the body (see first page), but it does have the rear wheel wells and the interior pieces are sized to fit. They do only need minor sanding for a close fit with my new wheel wells.

I may have the same affection for my self closing tweezers. No matter what other tool I'm using they always seem to be involved. I have many other regular tweezers of various shapes that just sit unused.

Talk about clean! I didn't know that car COULD look good!

I'd love to see some pics of the Plymouth !

Cesar ... I like your son's intense concentration on the object at hand. Looks promising!

This needed rear wheel wells as they show in the interior. The donor frame has only the rear portion of the rear wheels. I cut the rear wheel wells off the frame of a '51 Chevy convertible that was already being used as a parts car. I also took the convertible boot to cut down and possibly use if I cant find another. After they were fitted and glues to the body the donor frame wheel wells were cut down to match. Not a perfect match, but when painted black they will be hardly noticeable. It took more grinding to thin the body more where the wheel wells fit and I did the final thinning and smoothing and thinning of the edges around the wheel openings.

I consider this a very helpful post for the viewing pleasure of us all. Well done explanation of the basics everyone should know. I'm amazed at the competence of the current crop of digital snap shooters. Paying a little attention to basics and reading your manual will reap great benefits when doing close ups. As Brian went through, using a small aperture (the f8 mentioned) will do more to get you focus over the whole model. Different cameras use different methods to adjust for closeups, so learn yours and give us some eye candy!

Mine got here EARLY .. only 4 days after the first "arrival post!" Please excuse me now ...

That came out spectacular! That green paint is a great shade and looks fantastic.

You're not crazy. I almost always find body flaws after taking closeup photos. The camera's magnification works much better for me to check bodywork after the first primer. Even the photos after completion give some surprises.

My favorite tail fins of all time! Those intakes caught my eye too ... looking good.

Just the angle of the shot I think. There's no warpage in the body at all.

I just can't figure how you drove it down on those rocks. Good looking build!

I made some progress finishing off the body. There were pinholes along the bottom edges and along one front fender top chrome strip. The bottom edge of the trunk was really a mess with holes spaced along the edge. I did some putty on it and scraped the line but most of the putty came out before the primer coat to check things. I may have to fill the whole thing and re-scribe a new line. I also did more grinding on the body edges and wheel wells thinning to less than half the original thickness. The front grill area needs shaping with putty on the driver's side to proper shape. I will have to create the rear wheel wells that intrude on the interior. The rear and side pieces that come with the kit are contoured to fit around them but neither TR3 donor kit has these sections of wheel well with them. The TR3's use separate interior pieces that are not correct for a TR4. As a whole the body is good but it is very thick and the areas mentioned need bodywork to bring back the shape. I wouldn't recommend this one to a beginner. I believe the later body's by Air-Trax are much higher quality. The PE pieces for the grill, logos and steering wheel do look fantastic.

My head's usually in the sand, so I hadn't seen it before. It perked my interest seeing it printed white but right off it doesn't look like what I was hoping for. I have an old build of our companies Surveying truck ind the logo HAS to have white in half of it. Only an Alps seemed to be the way, so it looks like it may stay in the unfinished pile.

This link was posted on the Automotive Forums.com and is a different process to make graphics to apply to your builds. It can do all white and metallic but I'm not sure yet about a colored decal with white areas. Something worth exploring for sure but it's not exactly dirt cheap. Decal Pro

Interesting order on the body paint ... black first. This should be a real looker.

Fords of Europe are real cars and nothing like is fostered on America.

I'll be keeping an EYE on this ..

My eyes are open OO

I can't get over the stance on that .. super cool!

Yeah, I guess it wasn't called that exactly. The Macbeth color checker is kind of built in to higher end cameras ... the same effect anyway. I can take a shot of an 18% grey card in the light and the camera will balance later shots to adjust.