Foxer

Fantastic!

This is a build of a 1962 era dragster I started for the Lions Drag Strip build long ago. It's still only needs some fuel plumbing but I got to wondering about the balance of it. The body is from a '32 Vicky and is set back pretty far making me wonder what would happen when it's lit off. The driver is right at the 62 number and the top of the frame behind the driver seat can just be seen in the photo. My question is, would this have wheelie bars due to the balance and would they even be proper in a 1962 dragster? Example photos would be very welcome.

It's pretty obvious why people would pay you to build .. WoW!

MacWorld ... whoa, whoa, whoa.. how did I miss that one? I hate to say it, but what is a MacWorld? Sorry Gregg ... this sounds like a cool idea. I like being able to easily find a kit review, but that numbering system may need more thought. One problem would be knowing the kit model number. How would anyone know that unless they had to kit to read it off of. I usually search for kits I don't have before buying. I'm just not sure a number based index serves any purpose. Of course, I would never have a Mac so maybe that's where my problem lies. I'm sure I'm missing something. Probably the database you have in mind and how that might be indexed.

Yes, Googling it will find it most of the time. But I've found many places mentioned that were either misspelled, typed incorrectly or simple were un-Googleable! A recent unlinked mention of where a part came from was what got me to post this thread. I still can't find it with Google and I'm not a search novice. (the spell checker tells me I invented two new Google-words )

Ok, Dave, I'm going to have to comment on your method. Forgive me for being the structural engineer that I am. This is similar to many composite methods of repairs and even the main method of making a complete structure, like a carbon fiber body. The paper towels you use are the reinforcing material. Carbon fiber uses carbon sheets in a resin bath. Concrete uses steel bars in a concrete mix, fiberglass uses glass fibers. The reinforcement is usually required to take the tension (pulling apart) in the material. For your paper towel/epoxy composite the paper towels are required to be the reinforcement, so to speak. The towels may help to get a nice even thin layer of epoxy, which is highly desirable in this joint, but they add nothing to the strength ... it's all the epoxy alone. Epoxy is not as good in tension as materials such as steel, glass fibers and carbon fiber. When I've done seam reinforcement like this I've used wire or some sheet metal embedded in the epoxy for strength. Now if we could easily get some carbon fiber strips. !!!

WoW .. that's a lot of half rounds, Peter! and looking GOOD!

You are BAD, Clay!

WHEW! .. I'm exhausted!

I took a BMF inflicted break from my daughter's GMC Van so figured I should do an easy one to get back to modeling. Why doesn't that seem to work for me? A post by Gasman concerning the Arii 924 Turbo got me thinking and I acquired one thinking it would be a straightforward build. Mark Taylor commented about the accuracy of the Arii kit in that topic and I could see the problems easily when comparing the Arii to a Monogram 924 I had already built. I liked way Arii treated the front and rear clips but the window problem was too much to bear. So, I found a Monogram 924 Turbo kit to use for this build. The Arii rear clip is useable but will take some bodywork to narrow the top section and match the body interface. The jury is still out on this. I'm attaching photos of both front and rear clips below ... the left one is the Arii. The Monogram ones are one piece, the Arii are multiple pieces that will detail up much nicer .. and easier. I started bodywork by opening up the NACA hood scoop by grinding it out from behind and adding a piece of plastic to extend the hood into the scope opening. I do already have the Havana Brown paint from Paintscratch. I welcome all questions, comments, or criticisms

something like this, only closer ... OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Hey .. I'm in the Green Mountain range too .. but down here we call it the Berkshires! I really like the work on this one, especially the grills! I have one small suggestion though. The paper interior pieces look really good, but next time try using a straightedge to cut them. I'm sure it's not even noticeable from a distance, but cameras are nasty when they get in closer than you're view in real time. Very cool build.

Yes. Just use the way I outlined above. To expand it a little .... The easiest way is to use another tab in your browser to go the the MCM page you wish to link and copy that URL. Most browsers now allow you to add another tab. In Firefox there's a "+" in the Tab box .. just click that to open a new tab. It should be similar in other browsers.

I think I'm just way too hard on myself as I can see when some trim I hand painted went off the line and , sometimes, I'll fix it. My parents always gave good comments when I was young, but I knew exactly what I did despite having no magazines or fellow modelers to compare to. My local hobby shop finally had a contest when I was 16 in 1962 and I got to see what was possible .... my splotched candy paint didn't compare to what I saw there, but I DID know it looked bad before that. It's good when people offer their guidance and experience here and I hope that never changes. Not everyone uses their language skills to make it sound helpful so we must remember most ARE trying to help.

A little pet peeve of mine that went off twice for me today so I better tell how to avoid this. When you put the name of a web company in a post you should ALWAYS link it to the company. This is the Internet .. you CAN do this and its what the internet is all about! It's frustrating when someone is asked "where did you get that?" and the response is "at Bills Mini modeling" as if I knew where or what that is. NEVER assume you reader's know where this is .. that's one reason they asked the question. This forum makes it very easy to put a link to some text. First, you should open another tab and go to the site and copy the link you used when you bought the piece (highlite address and ctrl C to copy). Now highlight the text you wish to add the link to and use the Insert Link button (next to the smiley). Use ctrl V to paste the link into the URL box. Click Insert Link button and it's done. I'm of the opinion that this should be always done when directing readers to another site.. even for the ones we commonly think everyone knows ... someone doesn't!

No, just those old shrunken guys from the 50's & 60's ...

The body is in great form to receive the weathering powders. I especially like the rusty drips on the drivers side!

.. just don't hit the plow if it's plastic. Diecast, you might get a realistic dent!

That's the one.

I like how you aligned the two tone between the truck and camper.

This is not a joke. It is an alternate to Alclad and is much simpler to apply, though it can get messy being a "clinging" powder. I like the fact it can be applied to different base paints and colors. Black base gives a dark chrome while a silver base will result in a bright chrome. Blue will give it a blue tint. Like everything else, your results may vary. Like Alclad, the smoother and glossier the base, the more chrome-like the result.

Looking at that head and intake again, it looks like the plastic junk covering my 2008 engine in the garage ... except this one has style!

I wouldn't mind an article on weathering a plow.

I wholeheartedly agree with you!

That IS eye candy at it's finest!