Foxer

gorgeous paint... looking good!

Let me say something general, but the experts will be following me. I'm just using some PE rotors for first time too. Most on my cars (have had no drum brakes since the rears on my TR4A 40 years ago) and the disks just bolt to a circular plate fixed to the axle. I just slid a circular hub/plate on the axle and glued. The only thing filling the inside of a rim nowadays is the disk brake. Some cars even have brake disks close to the center of the car next to the rear end. Usually the end of the axle consists of the brake disk with a heavy center that the wheel bolts to. The caliper is usually attached to the axle with a simple bracket. The model caliper is usually just glued to the disk unless you wanted to fabricate a bracket so the disk turns within the non-moving calipers as on 1:1 vehicles.

I don't think there's any argument here there are shiny and there are rusty models. All have versions from "HOLY COW!" to "that's great, but here's a way to make that chrome (rust) glitter". That's a great junkyard dio.. he has studied rusted hulks well as each one tells a story. The fact that emotion was felt for a junked General Lee says a lot for the effect of his modeling!

Milliput is an excellent product but this is not a general body putty. It might have a use filling a large unsupported area but I would only suggest this as a secondary filler. 2-part 1:1 fine body putties are still the most desirable for most all body work .. if you can take the pain any 2-part material is to use. Evercoat Euro-Soft polyester Glazing Putty is typically listed as #1 of these because of it's "love for plastic", but most any 2-part fine body putty works as well. The advantage to these is they cure quickly and they have about the same hardness as plastic and therefore finish and blend with the kit plastic. Most single part putties have shrinkage or cause chemical reactions to plastics .. Green squadron green does both. I've been surprised at the qualities of Modelmaster Red Putty. I have noticed no shrinkage with this putty over the past 10 years I've used it. I do use thinner layers when filling deep areas to help minimize shrinkage. The body kits you've been working on have really upped your skill level IMO. I also feel any resin caster that produces something this miss matched and requiring this much work .. should be taken out back and shot. I'm sorry, but I find this extremely offensive and business like. If the kit advertised that the end clips were from a different model or scale and required this much work is one thing and acceptable. anyway.. sorry about the words .. I've been very impressed with what you've been doing with this. Hope

That is gorgeous .. please keep this up, Simon! I've always wanted to see a MFH kit close up like this.

Simply gorgeous !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice build! .. I especially like your wiring job on the 6-banger!

Congratulations! May your success exceed your completion of model projects as witnessed in that "other post" Seriously, I wish you all the success that can be!

That's a great paint job .. realistic weathering looks very believable. I'll be waiting for more photos ....

I really would like to help you here, and it pains me to not offer loads of possible color combinations, BUT ... I don't respond well to messages containing the word PINK!

This just has the look of a model at first glance. Maybe it's just the simplicity of these oldies that throws them off. There are sure many finely made ... and thin .. pieces here. .. the back of the hubs, spokes, inner fender. I want to say real, but gut still tells me MODEL.

You sure did the technique fine from here. N-scale stairs.. that Lyle is a sneaky one. Now I'm feeling sorry for that gorgeous shift linkage that will get buried in the tunnel.

I'm finally going to make this show. My brother-in-law lives in Wayne and wife from Patterson so it's almost like home .. and I've never been to one! I'm just getting back from a long abstinence and nothing to show so will just be for fun, fun fun!!

You're in good hands. ledsled owns the eastern half of the state. If you're stuck in the REAL Massachusetts, out west in the Berkshires, I can show you the ONE shop we have. Pretty sad, but it's a good shop ... the owner is a car guy. Only other choice for us hill dwellers is a Hobby Town in Albany that is actually quite good.

That's one smooth looking chop, I see they got the right guy to do this. Would love to see you in action, but I'll be at NNL East the same day.

The codes from MCW are Sand Green L311 and Palm Green L312. I got the colors from bus photos I found where the owner gave the colors. These are special colors from MCW so might not be off the shelf at a show. I may check at NNL east with them too as I an low on the sand green and need to put more down. My brother-in-law lives in Wayne so NNL east is a for-sure trip this year. ))

Looking good. Sure a lot of detail in that interior! Excuse my Studio 27 ignorance, but is this a 1/25 ?

Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland has a snowplow also

I can see thru the hood louvers!!! Where might that hood be from?

VW buses have a nice flat canvas .. part of the reason they were so popular for murals. With the ease of making decals on an inkjet printer it's possible to create some pretty complex graphics for us lesser endowed freehanders. Note that I made the Kombi from a 23 window van by filling the roof and rear windows in. There is a panel van version without all the rear windows, a canvas for sure.

I was going to comment on the pink right off.. but see I was beat to it!! I do think it goes well with the blue and is not overdone .. well placed touches. whoa! you have to buy gallons (liters) of auto paint?

But the question is, did it get itself safely DOWN from there??

Looking real good! I like the ride height and the interior looks really comfy!!

That is totally awesome~~~!!!! what a great idea with the starting and horn too.