dwc43

Can't wait to see it. I have one of these started myself. It will be a NASCAR version though.

Yours does look different in size. lol. Also, the shafts are crooked on one end too. I also found what they called the coil too. It's on the chrome tree. The number escapes me at the moment though. It should be aluminum instead of chrome though. It looks like a stock coil with an aluminum heat sink can wrapped around it.

The carb in question is a Dominator and it is not a spread bore. It's a large square bore. The fuel lines do enter the front of the bowl, just not straight in. They angle downwards and should mount from the right side. Back in the day, if you want to make it into a NASCAR type stock car, it would not have braided hoses. Just high temp/pressure hoses which I will assume is what they are trying to mimic with the black hose for fuel and cooler lines. I'm going to try and rework my carb and make it correct and if I have room add a spacer under it and correct the linkage and add the vent tubes to the top of it. If you could find a scrap Petty GP car in 16 you could use the chrome 3 piece aircleaner from that kit. You would have to dechrome the filter part and paint it and off white I guess.

You are missing out on a great man with an unmatched career. True champion of the sport and made NASCAR what it is today. I was lucky enough to walk through his shop when they were running the Magnum.When I send that hood out to you, I can let you borrow a couple dvd's if you'll treat them like gold. lol

You are correct. Did you also know that Mopar was so worried about losing these engines in a plane crash that they shipped all of them from Detroit to FLA by truck?

Not a chance. I'd hate to see that out on the road. And you somewhere along the way, someone will pass that fake off as a real one. I caught two Challengers for sale at Hunters Custom Auto Expo a few years ago. Not too long after I sold my 70. They were trying to pass them off as R/T cars. Neither was close to a real R/T car and one had the wrong vin code for the engine it had in it. I feel sorry for who ever he suckered into buying those things. I'm glad he over heard me telling my brother what was wrong with both of them too. No that I was trying to be quiet so he could not hear me either. lol.

Thank god Mopar had sense enough not to do that. Too bad others messed up some great cars to stick that junk on there. Can't believe they screwed up that 71 R/T like that. All original that thing would be worth double to low triple digits, but aint worth squat like that.

Interesting build. Only one flaw I read. No Daytona in 71. Only 69.

I've got one on the way myself. Need an extra one though. I have one of the old 74 Dodge Chargers in that scale in pieces. I want to take the chassis and use it to make a Petty car since the big scale Petty car cost almost as much as a real one, if you can even find it. Only big problem will be closing up the blower hole in the power bulge hood on that car.

What kit and what did you use for roll bar padding? That looks great.

Sweet ride. Love the old stuff.

I have a Mallory Mag just like the one in the 4 th pic. Looks like a stock cap on mine too. Mopar Tan in color.

If it's a flip top funny car it is running a magneto for sure, two if you have a Hemi in it. And yes, Morgans stuff is great. Use it in all my builds now. Need to put in a order myself pretty soon.

Thanks man. I need to just post it in the needed section. Forgot to do it a while a ago.

That's true, Highway. And most have cast in or machined script instead of raise letters on them too.

I got one of these too so I could build the one I had back when I was in school. Only thing is,it does not come with the window plug for the smaller opera windows like my 74 had. I know they are in the race car kit version. I hope I can find a set to trade for without having to buy an extra kit just for the window plugs.

Nice looking car.

Those cars are all sheetmetal hand made except for the nose and tail section. Those are made from Kevlar.

Nice.

Sweet.

Can you see me now ?? LOL!!!

Here's a good debate question. Which is better, weight of paint and decals and clear VS. weight of a body wrap decal with no paint and no clear.

Yeah, they are wayyy to short. They need to scale to 32 inches for cars and trucks can be longer. On cars they don't need to be any longer to get a mechanical advantage or else they will constantly lift the front wheels and you wont be able to adjust that out of them. On a truck you are trying to plant the rear of vehicle that is wayyyy to lite in the rear to begin with, so you can get away with it. Plus the over all weight is too high compared to the hp and tq levels of a truck. They usually only use the ladder bars on off road 4x4's. Here, yours are nothing more than swing arms like on a semi truck. They still need to be longer than what you have there to make them look right. They also make different designs for trucks too. Some still look like car versions, but they make other versions that work the same way too. There's some info in the first link and an odd design in the second link. http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/ http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/tractionbars.htm

Well the aero want matter much on a short track like Bristol or something similar. Could come into effect on the intermediate tracks though. Weights not always a bad thing as long as its in the right place. When we ran dirt we used to run a little heavy compared to the min. weight rule in the books. Actually helped handling there, but now I aint comparing apples to apples anymore though. Still on a NASCAR short track the weight wont hurt it as much as a super speedway. Here's something else to think about when it comes to weight. That external tank on the space shuttle was left plain ole orange foam instead of painting white to reduce weight since the thing burns up on re entry anyways. That alone proves the paint weighs quite a bit. If it was lead based it would weigh even more.

The added weight should be min. compared to the aero benefit you get from the clear though.