sjordan2

The only things that bother me on this build of a total mess of a kit are the steering wheel (check real cars to see what I'm talking about) and not filling in the body seams around the nose and rear valance. Otherwise, this has been done so well in so many other ways, that I can only add kudos to a great piece of work.

So...is this a break from the complexities of the Lincoln L that you're also currently building? You're on a whirlwind of builds right now.

When you get this one under glass, you're going to have to include video to show it in action. The original Airfix issue of the 1/12 Bentley had the same sort of motorizing set-up, but much better concealed. Motor inside engine block, battery went under the rear seat. In later issues, motorizing parts were available only by mail order, and eventually dropped altogether, but plastic molding to accommodate the old motor stuff is still on the latest boxing.

Molded plastic wire wheels. Some are better than others, but I've never seen any that can't use serious attention, except possibly for the 1/8 Jaguar E-Type.

If the script occurs on the body mold, search other posts on this forum for subjects like making foil scripts and the use of Bare-Metal Foil on scripts. Apparently some of our more accomplished members are good at putting BMF over scripts, cutting away the excess tightly, and using thinner to remove the paint over the scripts after body painting. BUT Are you saying the script or artwork is not available? Then you'll probably need to make your own art and find someone with an ALPS printer that has foil printing capability. Otherwise, find someone who offers foil transfer printing service from your own design.

Lawsy. Great. I think the wires are okay, but one thing I'm working on, regarding the 1/16 Jaguar SS100, is to scrape and thin down the outer part of the wheel wires only, which I'm finding makes a pretty big difference.

Last year, Revell of Germany did a limited edition re-pop of the 1/8 Monogram E-Type for certain preferred European kit dealers only. No revisions as far as I know. Many of the original issues are available on eBay at somewhat reasonable prices if you lurk around (I have 5 that didn't cost me an arm and a leg. Just an arm.)

I also couldn't find the whole package in one original car. However, this one has similar fenders and "Mother-in-Law" seat.... http://www.bowdensautobody.com/1911-Ford.html About 1/3 of the way down the following page on the right, there's a 1909 Runabout with a similar cowl and RHD, and below it on the left is one with the other stuff... http://oldcarandtruckpictures.com/ModelTFord/ One thing I've found about 1/16 Academy-Minicraft kits and the other relabelings is that most of them were made in Japan or Korea, and some of them like the 1/16 Rolls Phantom III can be found it collections and museums in Asia -- it's currently in the Toyota Museum in Nagoya, and I suspect others are there, too. Meaning that it's not illogical to think that this Model T was imported for the RHD Asian market.

Easy to find if you take the time to check Google or eBay. Kits available from 1/72 to 1/6, but not in 1/24-25.

I wouldn't say I was overly influenced, but my interest was supported by the 1958 Thunderbird and Kookie's hot rod in "77 Sunset Strip."

I have different rolls of Line O Tape in varying sizes of chrome, aluminum and brushed silver. They have hard finishes that don't wrinkle, and the advantage is that the different sizes (down to super teeny 1/64") are perfectly machine-cut, and the sharpness of the edges can't be beat. Available in a variety of colors and sizes. But curves can be a problem.

Here is an extremely accurate and detailed look at a silver & red Gullwing, EXCEPT: - valve cover should be gloss black with chrome/polished screws -underside of the hood, engine compartment sides and firewall should be all matte black -the intake manifold and shield below it should be a dull aluminum -the shift knob should be all white with only the shift pattern. - refer to Google for proper painting of the hubcaps There are other non-standard differences in the interior. Contact me after you determine your color scheme. I narrowed the Google Image search to include "fantasy junction mercedes 300 sl gullwing". http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/511-Mercedes-Benz-300%20SL%20Gullwing-Injected%20Inline%206%20Cyl Here are some other good ones (maybe better). The first has optional knock-off Rudge wheels. http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1526-Mercedes%20Benz-300SL%20Gullwing-3.0%20Litre%20Inline%206-Cylinder This one has the pop-out door windows and belly pan removed: http://fantasyjunction.com/cars/448-Mercedes-Benz-300%20SL%20Gullwing This one includes the optional Nardi steering wheel http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/567-Mercedes-Benz-300%20SL.. PS: I'm curious to see how the doors fit on your 1/25 kit. I know about larger scale versions, and everyone has problems with those.

This factory color chart is a bit dark, but it shows the standard colors and matching interior combinations. Colors could be specially ordered as well. Search in Google Images for a huge amount of reference information. Other types of information here... http://s827.photobucket.com/user/sjordan47/library/Mercedes%20300%20SL?sort=3&page=1&_suid=141658515991602607053390238434 If you could only have one reference book, I recommend Mercedes-Benz 300 SL by Dennis Adler. http://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Benz-300sl-Dennis-Adler/dp/0760312133/ref=sr_1_1_twi_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416585405&sr=1-1&keywords=mercedes+benz+300+sl+dennis+adler Please let me know if you have further questions.

This is a true work of art. Great job, kudos to the nth.

I've only seen a couple of completed versions of this kit, but it seemed to me that the chrome parts looked pretty rough around the edges. Are you finding that?

Here's some good reference. http://www.classicandsportscar.com/classifieds/classic-cars/porsche/other-models/porsche-904-6-works-targa-florio/3065953 This car has been issued in kit form, plastic and metal versions, by several model companies... http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&hl=en&source=hp&q=1%2F24+porsche+904+model+kit&gbv=2&oq=1%2F24+porsche+904+model+kit&gs_l=img.12...2138.13936.0.15516.28.6.0.22.22.0.134.725.0j6.6.0....0...1ac.1.34.img..16.12.738.UOHjYjyrfXs

So the top is glued on?

Just a great piece of work. Can we see something of the interior?

I've been following and researching this car and this kit for years, and this is the first time I've ever seen anyone get that part right.

This kit doesn't get better than this one. How did you finally resolve the hood fit issue (with photo)?

Time for more!

Great job. Love the color.

I was hoping to see how you'd devise hinges for the doors -- the same issue of separate doors but no hinges also applies to the 1/16 Rolls Phantom II Continental and Jaguar SS 100 kits.

I don't know if it's relevant, but this partly built AMT 1/25 version doesn't show frame crossmembers either. http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com/kits/images/CarAMTErtl/amtertl6513-2.JPG This member apparently has the AMT kit and may be able to tell from the instructions... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95700

Great job on what I've heard is a nightmare of a kit, with warped bodies and horrible parts fit. I'm impressed.