sjordan2

Unless you own one and have to keep it clean. Beautiful as they are, I'll never own another black car.

Dang, How long did it take you to build this?

My only experience was trying to fix a plastic toy and it melted the joint I was trying to glue.

Is this a re-post? I seem to recall the teddy bear. In any case, I love to see these old-timers being built stock, and this is very well done.

Part of your dilemma might include the difference between a metallic and a pearl. It's a tiny model, and normal metallics will result in a bass boat metalflake appearance. Maybe House of Kolor can help you.

Not to sound too suspicious...but I get very suspicious about bidding manipulation when I see prices like that. Once upon a time, eBay listed the screen identity of the leading bidder in the main listing, but no more. I could be wrong. Edited bid histories, however, can be found on the listing. This one appears to have had at least 3 different bidders.

I think the coolest part is that it's not just a micro car, but a refitted electric carnival dodg'em car.

Congratulations. If I recall correctly, there are so many narrow streets in Dublin that 45 mph would be ridiculous. Also congratulations on your beautiful fair lass of a girlfriend. If my girlfriend in those days in my youth had gotten new glasses, the relationship would have been over much faster.

Unbelievably impressive. But it makes my head hurt.

I collect kits that are usually very complicated 1/16 classics. I sometimes buy built glue bombs of these kits to see how they look like when they're assembled and perhaps as parts replacement donors.

What car/kit are you building? There are a number of fixes, such as what Plowboy suggested. - Trace the outline of the windshield on tape or paper and see if it can be translated to a piece of clear styrene or Lexan that will conform to your needed shape. – See if something like Meguiare's Scratch-X polish for clear headlight covers will work. - Mount your windshield on a sturdy backing base of clay or malleable putty that covers the entire back of the windshield, then heat some very thin clear plastic and immediately pull it down over the original windshield (a technique used by aircraft modelers to duplicate canopies)

Thanks for re-posting. I hadn't downloaded your images yet.

I disagree. I think the handling and communication of this issue has been very poorly handled. For some reason, the main subject was put into the "Off Topic Lounge," where hardly any members would look to find it, which I think is ridiculous. And the primary subject should have gone into the long-standing Forum/Web Site Problems which is now inexplicably locked. In daily management of this site, there do not seem to be any problems with certain threads being shunted from one thread to another or combined, in other topics without explanation, and I think this is along the same ignorant lines.

I don't quite get this. Every work of art, like fine porcelain, has a signature at the bottom to indicate origin and I think modelers should sign their work at the bottom. What is it about the bottom that's so important?

I wish you'd just pick up here where you left off. No need to fill in the blanks from the outage.

Wow, that paint looks good. Too good for the original car (at least for the first few months). Lots of work for this particular car ("Mr. Gorbachev, tear this car down!").

That is just too cool. It would be good to see some less professional-looking photos to glimpse more detail.

I think several posts got lost here during the move to a new server.

You really need to go back about 12 pages in this thread to see what's involved with learning the software.

In terms of general complaints and grievances... Most of my kits are in larger scales, and come with opening doors, hoods and trunks...that don't close or fit well at all.

It's a sister kit to the Aurora/Monogram Maserati 3500 GTi, which has the same problems -- bad roofline and nose. The wheels don't look too bad if they had less of a wash, but the hub parts stick out way too far. Matt Bacon did an awesome fix on the Maserati last year, which is worth digging up. Here's his Under Glass result: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74759 His Workbench report: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71253

Though the picture is of a 4-door wagon, I think they could have given it a lot more flair if they'd added more style to the C-pillar, echoing a 50s Nomad, or Toronado roofline reference. But maybe they hadn't gotten to that stage yet.

I've had more problems with Amazon's independent vendors from overseas, 2-3 times, with items getting stuck in customs for up to a month. Only once with eBay in many years. No extra charges.

Don't forget the Pocher Rolls Shooting Brake.

Yes, the steering wheel was metal with an ivory finish; it tilted down to allow easier entrance/exit over the high door sill. Wood-rimmed 3-spoke Nardi steering wheels were also available. Contact me before you decide which kit to tackle and I can give you basic pros and cons -- every kit has a different set of inaccuracies, fitment problems and other challenges. Overall, the best of the bunch is the 1/16 Italeri 300 SL Roadster, though it needs a totally re-done windshield and a few other minor fixes. (The 1/16 Italeri Gullwing is a different matter. They based their Gullwing main body shell on the Roadster, which has obviously different dimensions in key areas, among other problems.) And my 300 SL reference files are about twice the size of what I had on the SS.