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Everything posted by Bill Eh?
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Daniel, thank you very much for the pictures and link. Sadly, that particular seller does not ship to the Great Frozen North! LOL I eventually found the set on Amazon.ca and just made the purchase. There were a couple of other sellers at a higher price point. Expensive, yes. Are good tools worth the investment? I think so.
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I have been using a single small-diameter, round tapered file for the same purpose. Would you please post a picture or the name pf the product that you purchased.
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I have had good luck with Kijiji over the past three days. All of the purchases, except the AMT Sandkat were from Kijiji. The Sandkat was from my LHS, Dailey Hobbies. Only the Tamiya Porsche GT2 was slightly started. They used old tube glue, so it was relatively easy to disassemble the pieces.
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It makes you wonder if the seller looked at the box art or read the description in the upper right hand corner. In any event, a great score for you Dan. Most Kijiji model car listers here believe that any used, common model car kit is worth a minimum of $40.
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Jonathan, when you received these kits, were you a little surprised by the size of the box for the Aoshima Zonda C12S?
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Ford Mustang from scratch
Bill Eh? replied to Sledsel's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
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Thanks Christopher for teaching me something new. I didn't know that, but I'll try to remember for future reference.
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it is great that you can find these Paasche brushes in such immaculate condition. I tried a search on the Paasche model M, and only came up with an eBay listing. I'm not even sure if it is in fact a Model M. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/265321178766?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3dc65fe68e:g:hV0AAOSw1vZhR8Jh&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsStdebXPz4ZTXCT8FI9kPBhz%2FpzJ7R3T53JbEmozly9TVVMNmHER1DUle%2FGWhbM5C9MWQdHcr3MLc0b%2F1W32YcDGpzB72ydwCtFaIyRhs8DwLRrMhxGFZWge%2Fp6jqyBrPTexBO7QBwRKoteAamL%2BKUnUGptR76bHAvBQgRCsDOjsjpHsWAqeHEeUlXVB%2FFBBTD1SGEHZDLhyWBEEJ4yzgQ1goye0KKuQU0Sq%2BWbMF0nz7YF61%2FXsMY23RXqnCKroO9YFUH1lzw9XAHfYLFVGGdYzGWKyNTZfVJTTQhflg%2Bi03GWoDp8VVGeiTYyPYy2aXQqcavrEPgSXE8AFGY%2F6nOKH8MSubdvKW14gDi%2BvCU0wnyg3CeTBBXCuVTO6IghSYrmUAr0elxgpiXY31jgyg1FCS9JY4gHeT1xO1MAbD08C0RnHsFw6UU1nAP5fWHm0unKu90xgZd%2F2nmW9qT5WFdRn%2FIe10q%2Fo7%2Be1ykKQs09R2oQuch9pDYG9kAteV%2FHRMwjM7K6vGtq5GbThF5beggOmLFrJHUYRk41I1OpHA3%2BveOa%2F4I6v0JXFctXSTifwI9BVUcy0uqMM69Zol8HxmPcqVK0y8YVgRGGP%2FJlXY%2By2E0W9KTHyqIOpymctXbbNOJqQATnekzBf0H1R7VH%2FXiNeUN2%2BdXAyt9VlhGYMfeiR0MyV6o2v5uxrPZJMEkhdeckQML9CdHj%2FfYoviQRwz5kiy0PgO3y8wgDWCQ2%2Be%2BlpmaTsHdqUaKUPIAxEBk7sOuqayI9mWDa9H1%2BzzfTPMEfqn2IbShjGP7HsbMR3eBh3eNQw%2FpOJRRGNAJiXhMeyCX|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM7JnTqstf I have never seen an address this long either! LOL
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The pirate kits were branded LEE, which were direct rip offs. The Ben Hobby were legitimate. Tamiya attempted to sell into the the China market by using this branding. Great score Dan. To find a finished model you just need to look for finished Tamiya 936s.
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Curtis, with the number of bottles purchased, you must have achieved the free shipping to Canada threshold! LOL A great addition to your paint inventory!
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Wow Jim, having two Ravens is quite the achievement! It is hard for me to tell, but are they a side-feed or a siphon-feed design? Getting two Paasche brushes with close to side-by-side numbers is probably a once in a lifetime purchase. I'm thinking you have read this already, but I included a link to the brief history description on Paasche's website. It seems they were located in Chicago proper when the company first started. These two brushes must be from those beginnings. https://www.paascheairbrush.com/
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Don't let the erroneous 1/24 scale put you off. The C1 transkit is for Revell's 1/25 2009 Challenger. Chris Hales did not always get the scale reference correct. I think it is partially, that being from the UK, he is used to most car kits being of 1/24 scale.
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Thanks Guido Paul, thanks for your input. A friend recommended the same thing. K & S Engineering sells a multi-pack of varied diameter pieces of tubing. I need to purchase that. On a modelers Zoom meeting last week, I mentioned my predicament. A good friend responded during the meeting by taking his punch set, and making multiple 6.9 mm disks from 0.5 mm black styrene. He mailed them to me and they arrived four days later. He also punched out numerous in scale, hex shapes for the nuts with tiny styrene dots to represent the bolts. They might just be a little too small for me to work with. I may have to stick with the Wave product that I purchased. Modelling friends like this are what makes this one of the best communities (besides this board of course!) to be part of. Now, I'm obsessing over how to get the nut/bolt pieces equally spaced at 72Ëš apart. LOL Trying to add the pins to the exhaust headers did not work. There just wasn't enough gluing surface to attach the pins to. As an alternate method, I have glued the two left side header pieces together and the same for the right. I am going to now try remaking the header adapter piece so that it serves as a positive locator to the cylinder heads. The problem is that when you glue the two headers together, the ends that attach to the cylinder head adapters, do not form a straight line.
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I wanted to use the kit exhaust headers, so I have attempted to add pins to help with gluing them to the flanges.
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Lots and lots of Ignition Wire. I was very happy to find the initial spool. I decided to order a dozen more to share with friends. Each has 24 yards of 26 guage spooled goodness!
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Another beauty Jim. It's astounding to find a quality piece like this, in unused condition.
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The width of the Potvin Blower without the Fuel Injection unit on the LHS or Backfire Valve on the RHS is 9 mm. The space between the frame rails is 19 mm. This means the width of both the Fuel Injection unit and Backfire Valve can only be 4 mm. This allows a gap of 1 mm between the frame and each of these units. I made and added a 0.75 mm mounting plate for the Backfire Valve. The replacement Fuel Injection unit is done and measures 4 mm. I'm happier with the way this will look. No more forcing the frame rails to spread! LOL
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I had my second try at doing the Oil Breathers. The first set were iffy. Cutting the various pieces to size and then attempting to glue them together was not the way to go. It was too difficult to position pieces that small. The first illustration shows what I am attempting to achieve. The two pictures shows a 4 cm length of the "L" parts glued together. I will let this set up and then attempt to saw off 3 mm wide sections. Then I will cut and glue on the 1/2 round which represents the cap. All of this will get pinned to the Valve Cover.
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Thanks Peter. I took Bruce's advice and did the Scalemates thing with my Evergreen inventory. Only because I picked up 3 new packages today. Time to take a second attempt at the Valve Cover Breathers.
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Thanks Carl, you're absolutely right. A small update. I tried making a pair of breathers to attach to the valve covers. They are based on eyeball proportion to reference pictures. They are okay, but I am going to try making them in a different way to see if I can do better.
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Thanks Steve. I think I'll use the 1.2 as they will be easier for my eyes to work with. As you can see, this WIP is moving at the pace of molasses on a -40 day. LOL But I try to persevere. If something puzzles me, then I'll just leave the building process until I think I have an answer. I hope that by sharing my experience it will benefit others. I stripped off all of the chrome from the engine sprue. I did some cleanup and then assembled basic units like the Potvin Blower. From from front to back, the width of the dragster frame consistently measures out at 19 mm. When assembled, the Potvin unit has a width of 21 + mm. I had to force it to fit between the rails. When I did this, it caused the frame rails to bow out. I tried sanding down both sides of the Potvin unit. It now fit, but both sides looked uneven and out of square. I took a saw to both sides and removed them. I am going to try constructing my own from more styrene strip and rod. More to come....
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A small update. The idea of knock-offs for the rear wheels did not appeal to me. Please correct me if my interpretation is wrong. Reference pictures seem to show a circular metal plate, through which the five lug nuts pass. I have tried to recreate this with sheet styrene. The one on the left is superior to the one on the right. I think I will take a try at making another one. To replicate the lug nuts, Wave has some with widths of 1.0, 1.2, 1.6 and 2.0 mm. Across the nut, these would scale out to 1", 1 3/16", 1 9/16" and 2". Which would be the best choice? I'm leaning towards the 1.0 mm, but I'm just not sure.