Bill Eh?

By any chance, have you tried getting in touch with the seller to find out if the product is stickers, decals or both?

If you can find one, Tamiya has the racing version of this kit.

If the 1/24 assemble the same way as the original 1/32 versions, you may be caught out by the assembly process and simplicity of these kits. Here is a YouTube video of a GT-R34, to give you an idea of what you might expect.

if you watch it for the car kits, 10:30.

I know that both of the Tamiya kits, Honda and Acura, were full detail. If you don't mind other scales, Rosso made a superb 1/43 kit of this awesome car.

Tamiya's? Original or new NSX?

Alan I like mine as well. I found that the two halves of the body near the nose (collet location) could not be made snug without stripping out the screw location. I remedied this with a nylon tie. It is really good when numerous, repetitive drillings are involved.

Steve, I was going to fall into that trap. A YouTuber, with a popular car modelling channel, was getting impressive results by mixing a percentage of the catalyst of 2K clear with his enamel paints. My thinking initially was why not. First I thought it best to find out if both 2K components are carcinogenic. Boy was I surprised to find out that the catalyst is the worse of the two components. I do have some Unused Splash 2K clear. I believe it will remain in the unused state.

Iwata does not make a compressor model called the ISF Fusion 1000. I did a search and the only thing that came up was a listing from www.desertcart.com.kw This listing was for an Iwata HP-C airbrush and this compressor. The compressor looks similar in size to the Iwata Ninja Jet. The hose that fits the Ninja Jet and an Iwata airbrush is !/4" (compressor end) and 1/8" (airbrush end). If you want some detailed information as to airbrush hose sizes broken down by brand, go to http://www.sumidacrossing.org/Tools/Airbrush/AirbrushHoses/

Definitely a good idea to test on a spare. There many different agents that forum members use to remove coatings. To find out about these varying preferences and methods, type the following into a new search outside of the MCM Forum: site:modelcarsmag.com paint stripping or site:modelcarsmag.com paint removal or site:modelcarsmag.com stripping chrome You get the idea. You will get many links to this topic, which should guide you to a satisfactory method for clearing the yellow from the windshield. This search method is a pinned topic provided by Ace-Garageguy. I have used to it many times to search topics, and it works well. Personally, I have Castrol Super Clean and LA's TOTALLY AWESOME on hand. I have also used the full strength Easy Off Oven Cleaner.

Hey Bart, if you plan a repaint, are you going to do some disassembly? If so, removing the windshield piece, might allow for some soaking in your chosen cleaner/paint stripper.

Thanks Keith. I will play around with test fitting these parts to the resin chassis pan and compare with the wheel/suspension attachment on the plastic kit. The long, slender piece is roundish. If I can't figure that one out, I don't think it would be missed if I left it off. It is great to have a fresh set of eyes look at things. What you indicated makes sense, as I now see where those two pieces would attach to the chassis. Thanks!

Back at the second last GSL (2017?), Andy Martin was selling his transkit to convert a Tamiya Mini kit into a pickup. The kit was well packaged and the pieces are excellently cast, however, no instructions are included. Has anyone built this transkit or have it in their stash. Most pieces are self explanatory (body, chassis plate, grille). I'm just curious about the bottom three pieces in the last picture. I looked through a set of instructions to a Tamiya Mini kit, with no luck in identifying them.

Welcome from a fellow Group 25 member.

Sort of non-model kit related Kijiji purchase. I originally asked about some aircraft models, but was told they were spoken for. Next best was all four John Wick Blu-rays for $55. I also got an old favourite William Peterson movie, To Live and Die in L.A. When I arrived, I was told the aircraft kits, supplies and reference books were still available, so they came home as well!

As Ace-Garageguy has already pointed out, there is a pinned thread "HOW DO I SEARCH FOR ANSWERS ALREADY POSTED HERE ?"

They are the exact same kit. I'm not sure why they gave it a new kit number. As for the skill level, perhaps it was revised upwards after they got feedback from the first release. Go with the cheaper kit.

So, after experimenting with sawing (razor saw, ineffective choice) and cutting (hobby knife, better choice), I ended up with 9 pieces. Each piece is the equivalent of two General GUM erasers. Lots to share with my car modelling friends.

Friends recommended this material for cleaning hobby files. I purchased this "industrial" size block from Ali Express for $11 delivered. It is 6" x 3" x 1". It only took 9 days. Similar items, (Staedler or General Gum Erasers) would cost almost the same for 2-packs of 2" x 1" x 1/2" erasers. I can cut this block down and give pieces to car modelling friends.

Thanks Jesse. Model kits starts at 9:17.

These are my latest purchases from my favourite seller in London, ON.

I went to the ScaleFinishes website and looked under 1963 Ford colours. I did not see Viking Blue listed. On the other hand, MCW did have it listed. However, neither of these paints is available in Canada.

I tested the two paints on some spoons over Tamiya White Primer. Since Poly indicates Metallic, and it seems the overall consensus is to go with the Dupli-Color, that is how I will proceed. Mods, can you merge this with my topic in Q & As. Thanks

I'm trying to replicate a memory from my youth. I recently bought the AMT '63 Ford Galaxie 500 XL kit. I would like to use MCW Finishes Viking Blue Metallic 6233, but availability in Canada is an issue. A model building friend suggested that Tamiya TS-58 Pearl Light Blue might be a good substitute. I also had a can of Dupli-Color Medium Blue Metallic. The picture attached shows each colour sprayed over plastic spoons that had Tamiya Fine White Primer. Which would you choose?

I'm trying to replicate a memory from my youth. I recently bought the AMT '63 Ford Galaxie 500 XL kit. I would like to use MCW Finishes Viking Blue Metallic 6233, but availability in Canada is an issue. A model building friend suggested that Tamiya TS-58 Pearl Light Blue might be a good substitute. I also had a can of Dupli-Color Medium Blue Metallic. The picture attached shows each colour sprayed over plastic spoons that had Tamiya Fine White Primer. Which would you choose?