Bill Eh?

First, you may want to try removing the plastic nozzle from the can and soaking it an appropriate thinner overnight. This may remove a clog and allow the paint to spray again.

I like the wheels on this addition far more than the original.

Double post, LOL

Assuming that the colour of the cap is true to the paint colour, here is another picture of the caps with slightly different lighting.

Back in 1963, my family was still a one car family. We had just moved into a new house. My best friend's mother often provided a drive to school. Her car was a 1963 Galaxie 500 XL. It was a light blue, metallic colour. After doing some research online, it seems it was Viking Blue Poly. Side note here, I sure wish it was easy to purchase Scale Finishes or MCW paints in Canada. A friend has suggested that Tamiya TS-58 Light Pearl Blue is a close match. In the past, I had purchased can of Dupli-Color Medium Blue Metallic. I know it is hard to judge colours from computer screen images, but I would appreciate your thoughts. I will do a spoon test. I went to get some plastic spoons from the cupboard only to find that only one was left in the box. And of course I can't just go to the store to buy a box, because single use items can't be purchased. LOL I went online to Amazon to buy a box of 400, a lifetime supply! LOL

https://www.aoshima-bk.co.jp/en/distribution/ Luc, this might be a good starting point.

I believe there are numerous great options available, in spray or bottle, of lacquer, enamel or acrylic formats that are safer health-wise. To me, 2 K is one that does not have to be pursued.

My kidney creating a "rock band" in early April ruled out the NNL East for me this year. However, on the 27th a group of us met up at our favourite LHS Dailey Hobbies. I had to buy a kit to make up for my lack of purchases at NNL and picked up the Revell Bronco half cab with trailer and dune buggy. I also took delivery of some kits purchased from a good friend to help contibute finances to his annual Wonderfest trip. This past week I received a package from my favourite plastic pusher in London.

I keep a copy of the Evergreen catalogue on my laptop. It is still listed. The product code for the 12" x 24" sheets is 14109.

I believe you have the answer to this, illustrated in the pictures posted of Harry Pristovnik's Ducati and Tom Andrukaitis' Tasca Ford Thunderbolt. In my eye, neither of these has a toy-like appearance. We don't have pennies in Canada, so I guess that is my nickel's worth LOL

Pat, that is a shame about the decals. That livery would have been quite impressive.

See the topic "under to good to be true, hobby time model kits"

Although it looks the same, it is not a Gaahleri airbrush. It is a DragonAir Model DA04 Airbrush 0.5mm trigger action. I'm not sure if this is a private branded product for SMS. I bought two of the Gaahleri trigger style airbrushes, a GHAD-68 and a Swallowtail. I really like them both. If you go with a Gaahleri, the Swallowtail would be my recommendation.

Thanks for sharing that new-to-me information. You're right about the new illustration styling being uninspiring. In spite of that, I still purchased the Mooneyes and Yellow Fever kits.

Curious, how would Atlantis have access to Revell copyright artwork?

This past Sunday, the Group 25 Model Car Club had its Spring contest run in an NNL format. One of my favourite vendors from London was there and of course he had a kit which caught my eye. The final Tamiya racing iteration of the Nissan GT-R34 (Xanavi NISMO). These kits are becoming very rare. A good friend has a line on a set of decals so that I can build it as the Calsonic version.

If you can possibly find a disposable clear plastic spoon. You might be able to modify it so as to come close to matching the curvature of the Badman hood scoop. Another option is to find the fairly recent reissue of the Monogram '55 Chevy Bel Air Street Machine 2' n 1. It has all of the Badman parts, although the clear parts are clear, not clear red.

I understand the logic behind the lip that Tamiya includes on the back-edge of their one piece wheels. The appearance to me is overly thick. The wheel on the right is original and the wheel on the left has been sanded down to eliminate the lip. Here are all four wheels with the lips removed. I really appreciate the detail and appearance of Tamiya tires right out of the box. The material Tamiya uses has a realistic "rubber-like" appearance. And of course the Pirelli detail is a bonus. This is an older boxing, so I'm not sure if this is still the case with more recent issues.

Drilled out some lightening holes in the wheels from my Tamiya GT-R 32 NISMO kit.

I have the same Splash 2 part clear as well. The bottle of the clear itself, I believe is twice the size of the catalyst. Since it is Splash's product, then yes it is three parts clear to one part catalyst. Make the mixture first and then thin to a good consistency for airbrushing. Wise words from Mark indeed. Use good ventilation and wear a respirator mask if you have one.

Usually that would be the interpretation. I have never heard of a product which uses that in reverse, 3 parts catalyst to 1 part clear. Does this clear seller have a website. I believe in double checking things first. LOL

I know this one is a stretch, but... Mods, if you need to move it, go right ahead.

Aren't reunions wonderful?

Yesterday I finally got around to finishing the disc brake face drilling. Doing this with a pin vice and a 0.3 mm bit is risky at best. That size of bit is so easy to break! So I thought that I'd give it a try with my Tamiya battery powered drill. My only issue with the Tamiya drill is that the screw that holds the body shell halves together, up near the drill aperture, is not tight enough to keep the two halves firmly together. Keeping this area snug is important, as this is the area of the drill that contains the gearing and the drill chuck. I did not want to risk tightening the screw any further. There is the risk that the metal screw might strip out the plastic. So, I came up with another idea to hold the two body shell pieces tightly together, a nylon zip tie.

The Michael's stores in my area have a separate glassed-off room near the front of the store which could be reserved by different interest groups. We used to have our model club meetings there. That was before circumstances changed, as outside public gatherings were no longer viable. When attending the meetings, I would always spend money/use a coupon. I checked the model section, but the selection for car models was mediocre at best. Instead, I would use my coupon to get artist's grade paint bushes or acrylic paints ( I really like Golden or Liquitex acrylic products! ). The store has never reinstated the use of the room by outside groups. From what I've been told, the space is now just used as a stock room. As others have shared, Michael's pricing policy is such that using a 40% off coupon (only 1 item) would get you a moderate bargain price. I don't think they even offer the 40% coupons anymore. Basically I have lost all interest in shopping for anything at any Michael's locations.