Reeves Racing

Nice job on the wheels. I want to find some like that only 1/8th scale,

Thanks guys. I built 4 or 5 1/8 scale kits back when I was a kid. Never built this one though. The wheels and tires in the kit are ridiculously too skinny. and ugly too. I will keep watch on eBay. The good year Eagles from the 78 Corvette or 82 IROC kit are the tires I want and I may have to get some of the American Racing rear wheels from the Big T kit or something. My son is in college and has access to a 3D printer so we may make some wheels as a side project.

My boss just gave me a complete unstarted Monogram 1/8 65 Corvette kit from the 80s. Where is good place to get wheels and tires for a kit this size? I am looking for Torque Thrusts and just a little bit wider tire than what comes in the kit.

Well done.

That is no resin body. Its too thin in critical places. And as others have pointed out the chrome is way too clean. There hasn't been a fresh mold for casting the Comet around for years. However with that said TowerHobbies has once again pushed my 2 kits on preorder/backorder out again now to November.

YAY!!!!

The old decals looked like this

If you did those white walls by hand I think that is outstanding work. I have chucked up the tire on an old wheel in a drill and stabilized it on the bench and barely pulled the trigger to turn slowly. Then braced my arm off the bench with and Xacto knife and scraped the edge to clean it up. It turned out pretty good. You could always go put black wall or white letter tires on the real one LOL...

I'm glad you weren't offended because that wasn't my intent. The build is so realistic I just wanted to give some info on how the car is put together.

The weathering is outstanding but I think leaving the wheel house on was a mistake. When the fender is removed there are only a couple of bolts that hold it to the radiator support and so it would be hanging down and sitting on the tire not up in place all perky and tidy like that. I am currently repainting my 1 to 1 so I have become intimately familiar with how the front sheet metal is assembled.

The Monza is looking great JC. Thanks for the props on my old Charlie Kemp Mustang

Those are some the best worm gear hose clamps I've ever seen modeled Chris. Did they really use the A-N fittings and then hose clamp the hose on?

You are doing great on this. I always like to see 1 to 1 models. Be careful about sanding on a metallic paint, some times you change the way the metallic looks. When spraying the final coats of a metallic paint the bits of metal will settle in with the base color of the paint and usually float up to the surface a little. If you sand on it, the metallic deeper in the paint may not look the same. Its best to get a good coverage of the metallic color and then put an extra coat of clear on than what you normally do and polish it up real good without going through the clear. The only other suggestion I would give on an otherwise outstanding model is consider making the hinges on the hatch a little smaller. Because of the short angle needed for it to be open I don't think they need the big droop you have right now. I built a model of my Nova and now I am painting the big one to look more like the model.

Thanks for the update Dave.

Ferrari 288 GTO with tubbed rear fender wells to fit F-40 wheels and tires.

Wow those are some fantastic builds I'm more of a Ford guy but I have a few but only

Great looking fast back Dave. Here are some of my 1 to 1 build

Thanks Dave Thanks Dave,

I hope so, but they don't give any updates on their web site.

I just checked my back order status on the three kits I pre-ordered. It now has moved out for a fourth time. Now it went from June to September. Any updates as to why it keeps getting pushed out?

That is terrible. I am sure you can harvest some of the sub assemblies for other builds or you could make one of the most awesome wrecked race car builds ever...

Most of the time differences (read errors for some) in a specific kit and the actual car a person is literally standing in front of or sitting in for that mater are indeed FACTS about what is different in the kit and the car you are going to model. The reason some of us are more passionate about said differences is because the subject is way more personal to us. I am using this kit to build a model of my race car that I literally drug out of a field and cut up, re-welded, body worked painted and had some of the best times of my life racing. So its important to me that ever detail remind me of the actual car as possible. I pre ordered 3 of these kits in December of 2014 so I am doing more than my part to support Moebius. I am in no way disparaging Moebius and am a HUGE fan of them. I think they make some of the very best kits. So I don't think I am HURTING Moebius by pointing out things on my real car that are not represented well in the kit. I thank Harry for sticking up for us. I am excited about this kit and want to talk about it. Moebius keeps pushing the release date out further and further and don't really give many updates on what is going so the only thing to talk about is what I plan on having to change and what I am going add and what not once I finally get the box of plastic in my hands. I am appreciative of this forum as a place to talk about this kit. For me it adds to the anticipation. None of the differences (errors) will prevent me from buying even more of these kits and my comments on the differences shouldn't stop anyone else for buy one either. I own the actual car that was modeled by Moebius so I consider myself to be a self proclaimed expert on this subject matter. Wiper motors don't move around in location on cars going down an assembly line. The operators don't get to decide to put the wiper motor on the fire wall on this car and under the dash on the next one... The wiper motor on this car was under the dash and not seen so Moebius could of used the time making that part of the mold to do something else,,, at least that's what goes through a layman's mind. I don't know "sick 'em from come here" when it comes to model kit making. So I am just talking... the wiper motor difference isn't a big deal to me and the brace difference isn't a big deal to me but I am going to change it when I build the kit so I want to talk about it. Just to show my anticipation I had 4 sets of custom decals for my build printed by someone I found on this forum. So all of this is talk is good for the hobby. There is a saying, "There's no such thing as bad publicity"...

If the kit is going to have the skinny bolt in brace it should have both brace styles then. A stock "from the factory" car would of had the wider welded braces. As you said most owners cut out the welded ones. The bolt in brace was a rare option that was mostly available to re-brace the towers for the big block 427 cars since that engine wouldn't fit with the welded braces.

The shock tower braces are a bit off on the model too. On Mustangs they were a bolt on part but on the Comets they were welded in place.