David G.

For the most part, you're right. Cars built in the US since the mid 60's will have back and side windows made of tempered glass. Because of this they will hold together to some extent, but not as well as a laminated windshield. If a back window on such a car were shot, say, with a handgun, most of it might remain in place, at least for a short time. Most of what remains could be reduced to little bits with a light tap from a hammer, or be shaken loose by driving over a rough stretch of road. Sometimes they will continue to break, sort of shattering in slow motion. Hours later one can sometimes still hear occasional creaking and grinding noises as this happens. Of course, it would be just as likely to completely shatter leaving a jagged fringe of cubed-up glass around the inside of the frame. ******** revshag, Given that, I'd say you could justify just about any effect you wanted to create! But, creating random damage is almost never the way to go in model building. Most of the weathering, distressing and damage effects you see others modeling on their projects are actually carefully planned and executed proceedures used to create apparently random results. I would do a Google Image search on "shattered broken car window" find an image or two you like and use some of the cutting and scratching techniques given above to replicate the the features that appeal to you. As always, practice new techniques on scrap stock! Hope that helps. David G.

3M Spray Adhesive! On the futon and the driver!

Wow, thanks Dave! Getting the wash and/or drybrush color right would've been one of my biggest concerns. I was thinking of a slightly lighter black or very dark gray for the wash or drybrush. Your suggestions for the gloss and satin finishes are a good idea too. I built an AMT Batmobile years ago and mixed about four subtle shades of black for it to represent the various materials it would have been built with. That worked rather well and I was thinking of doing something similar with this engine. The different shades of black weren't something that most non-modelers would have picked up on right away, but it made what I call one of those "invisible differences" that sometimes seems to make all the difference. Thanks again for the information, David G.

Thanks for all the feedback. It sounds like the engine will be black with gold valve covers, like the build sheet says. There's also a T-Bird engine in the kit and they call that one out as black too. Since they were right on the stock one, they're probably correct on that one too. With almost everything under the hood being black, I'm afraid all the wonderful detail that's on the engine will just disappear. Does anyone have any washes or drybrush techniques they'd like to share? Thanks Again, David G.

I got this kit last weekend and I've got to say it's one of the best I've seen in a while. I found at my LHS for $16.95 and it's got more going for it than many kits in the $25 to $30 range. What you've done so far looks great, It'll be cool to see what you do with it.

Hi Everybody, Over the weekend I Picked up the AMT re-release of the 1960 Ford Starliner. So far it looks like an excellent kit and I can't wait to get started on it. My question is should the engine be gloss black as the assembly instructions call for, or should it be Ford engine blue? Of course, I realize that I could paint it purple and white if I wanted to, but I want it to be mostly accurate. I'm hoping that blue is correct, as a lot of the detail will be lost in black on black on black. Thanks, David G.

Impressive and beautiful.

Maybe the seat is just a futon mat on the floor!

Maybe he should put wheelie bars on the front, too! Also, from what I understand about the VW Bus and Bug designs, he put the scoops on backwards. The vents on the Bug and Buss are actually chimneys. As the car is driven, air moves past the vents creating a suction that draws the heat out of the engine compartment. The scoops should face the other way to be effective. Facing the way they are, they just ram the hot air back into the engine compartment. A Wolfsburg-trained Volksie mechanic told me that a long time ago and it makes sense, especially on the Bug.

One of the strangest things I found in a junkyard was in the trunk of a 1980's Chrysler K-Car. A collection of various prosthetic limbs. There were about ten arms and legs of different amputation lengths and two feet. Great topic BTW!

Obviously a person who could not get his life together. It's strange how such a random collection of items can form such a strong sense of the personality behind them.

Mr. Obsessive did a window tutorial a while back that you may find usefull.

Smooooth and deadly! Good body sculpting and paint work!

It looks great and your progress photos make it look easy!

That's a great deal! I see many hours of happiness in your future! I have a corded unit that was a gift about 15 years ago and it. does. everything! Though it sometimes is too fast for styrene, melting rather than cutting its way through. Do you know if the cordless runs a bit slower than the corded one?

Um, it would seem that I was uhhh lacking in imagination. But three pages worth, WOW!

You're quite welcome. The Bantam would have a spare wheel depression in the rear deck? Thanks for the offer, but you know as well as I do that the sorting is mostly what it's about! It would be like letting someone else open my Chrismas presents. I would like to arrange to meet at the DSC show in April, though. DAG

I'm afraid that it'll take me a few weeks to go through the bits and peices but you'll both get first dibbs on the things you've expressed an interest in, if I decide to swap anything out. I'm not even sure what I may be interested in as a trade right now. ps I'm not really sure what a "turtle deck T and Bantam body" are. Is the turtle deck the blue-misted one setting on the copper colored fenders? The Bantam body? I've no clue which one it is, but I'm pretty sure it's not the giant orange pick-up! Regards, David G.

Hey Everybody! Yesterday I received the model car junk yard that I won on ebay last week. I'm in hog heaven... if hogs do go to heaven, then I don't feel so bad about having eaten all that bacon over the years! There are about twenty frames/chassis and nearly a dozen partial builds. Of course there's all of that wonderful debris that sifts down to the bottom of such a pile! Motors, wheels, carburetors, seats... it'll take me weeks to sort through it all! Insatnt parts box!!!!! These are the ebay pictures posted by the seller. I hope they won't mind. My day is planned!

That's one to be proud of!

Wow, that's a stumper! Do you think that maybe you and your friends have too much time on your hands? I think you've come up with all of them, at least as far as I know.

The Stretch 'Vette from Mystery Men. I don't know if anybody posted a link to this site yet. If not, there ya go! If so, sorry for the repeat. Now we need somebody to build the Herkimer battle Jitney! David G.

I see now why you converted it to LHD. In Japan where the majority of cars are RHD, I doubt you'd ever see one in this state! Only in America! Beautiful work!

I love when folks modify kits like this, I think this is what the hobby's all about. Especially when it's as well done as yours. Would that rear cover be operated like a trunk lid? If so, would it be hinged at the front or rear? Also, could it be removed for larger cargo? Did you think about putting a couple of tie-down cleats on top of each of the rear quarters? Those wood strips just seem to beg to have a load placed on them! I know, they may be silly questions, but I usually find myself thinking of things like this as I plan a project like this. Your design is most impressive and very believeable! Thanks, David G.

Solid looking build! I love the color combination, that blue really catches the eye.