Erik Smith

Very nice. I like the color choice. Smooth paint.

I guess I didn't get a lot built this year... I better not do the math of kits built and kits to be built. I did get my first two part resin piece cast!!!

Really cool. Nice, clean building. I like the lines of the CRZ.

Nice collection of models! More than I have finished in the last three years. Or four.

I have been using my marginal skills to convert the old Johan Maverick covers to a more correct appearance. Driver's side is pretty much done: Johan part on top, modified part below. I have the other side to do - I have to move the plug locations to the proper offset...

Being somewhat of a Honda nut, I have seen that kit. I do not, however, own one! I hovered my finger above "buy it now" once, but couldn't quite do it.

This is my kit and I will build it. No qualms building kits - I have a few early 60s kits that I also plan on building. I thought for a second about keeping an older kit. I got over it pretty fast.

Tamiya clear coat is good and easy to use.

That's cool and unusual.

I love early Skylines and there is such an aura about them. If you don't get it, I can't explain it. '61 Pontiac Toyota 2000GT - another one I just like. A lot. Something to drive. Really drive. DBS And one of the best all aroun basic transportation cars there is. Honda CRV.

The Monzas are pretty easy and not expensive. Vegas go for some money.

Great box art Sean. I'm not normally a police car modeler, but I'll get one of these.

Nice work - great, clean building on this model.

I was responding to the OP from Edward Smith. I don't know if you meant to quote me and ask me the same question I asked Edward or not. My name is Erik Smith.

slightly moist toothpick. I just keep one in my mouth (gross) as I foil.

Nice collection Don. One interesting thing about the Monza is all three big kit makers (MPC, AMT, and Revell) had them in the line up. Add the Doyusha kit too. Something not too many cars can claim besides the given Camaros, Mustangs, etc.

What exactly is going wrong? Chrome? How does it look? We can't help without knowing specifically what part of the process is causing the problem. Overall, it is pretty simple. That doesn't mean it's fool proof, and I am by no means good at it. It requires a good base coat (gloss black for chrome) and very light coats of chrome. Low psi. I use my iwata gravity feed on about 12 psi and apply slow - very slow - until it gets a nice, chrome finish. My biggest problem is usually the base coat not being perfectly shiny or having small scratches - the chrome amplifies all mistakes.

Great info. I am going to try the mid sump pan vs the set up I have now - thanks for looking into the kits, too, Bill. I will run into some clearance issues on the interior tub and firewall too, but I can cut and modify that easy enough. Cato - thanks for the pan photo. The kit pan actually has that jog where the filter boss is located (you can see it above the starter in the photo above) - I figured the real engine has a reason for it, part of the reason I originally questioned my thoughts about flipping the pan. Thanks!

So...here is the modified-so-far chassis. I ground the crossmember as much as I could, but it really still doesn't clear and keeps the FE at an unrealistic tilt (front end is high). You can see the transmission crossmember I made. Here is the 406 with the pan reversed: And here is where the oil filter location still hits the crossmember: At this point, I am thinking of scrapping the '48 front end and using the front end of another era correct car. Hats off to all real world builders - I don't always go into models thinking "would this really work?", but I decided to on this model - and it is one thing after another!

Bare metal foil and Tamiya clear red, yellow, or orange.

1962 because it was an entry in this year's Cannonball Run - commemorating 50 year anniversary of American Graffiti. I really like the limitation though as it requires a lot of thought and research. The kit is Revell's '48 custom. The engine, representing a new for '62 406, is cobbled together from AMT '60 Starliner, '62 T-Bird, and 66' Fairlane. I'll get some pics up in a bit.

Again, I appreciate the feedback. I am trying to retain the Ford front end - the cross member interferes with the oil pan and the oil filter location, which I kind of remedied with a remote oil filter set up. Moving the engine back is an option - which would involve firewall mods and potentially a modified interior floor. It's not a real hard modification, and I guess the oil pan move was a "lazy" way out. I have contemplated putting a '62 T-Bird front end on as well - the rear end was replaced with the leaf spring set up from the bird. Those aftermarket sites are great - and I would use them for reference. However, this build is supposed to take place in 1962, so some of those options are not viable. I understand there were many VERY capable fabricators then (I have a few '62 car mags, it was a decade before i was born) I would just like to keep it looking period correct.

It's on a '48 ford, which, unfortunately, has a crossmember right where the deep part of the pan is located. That crossmember also supports the spring of the front suspension. So, without replacing the whole front end, I thought I would explore options. Thanks again for the input.

This is the kind of info I like. The reason I asked was I knew the pump was located at the front of the FE engine so I wanted to make sure it would be a realistic option to "fabricate" a system to get the oil from the pick up to the pump. When did dry sump systems originate? My particular build can't have post '62 technology, so that would limit my options. Thanks a lot for the information.

Would it be possible to flip the oil pan around on a Ford FE engine? I need the extra clearance on the front of the engine. Yes, I know on a model it's possible because there is no oil, but in real terms is this something that is feasible? I am talking about an engine with the deep well located on the front of the pan. Thanks!