W-409

What scale is it? Really good looking so far. Paintjob looks very nice, as usual. Yes, those wheels just look right. Keep it going, I'll be watching this one.

This is what I got for 5€ (about 6,5$). Well, looks like MPC has also released Burnout Bird. On the backside of that decal sheet, there is MPC Burnout Bird text... And I've seen this Burnout Bird with MPC box too, but my box shows, it would be AirFix kit...

Wow, those paintjobs are amazing. There seems to be no problems with masking tape. I like them all, can't wait to see buildup.

Yeah, that's little problem... Maybe they can be painted with brush, if you use some paint, like Revell Enamels... But that's real problem too.

WHAT!? Airfix has made Burnout Bird what I have on the bench.... But this has same body! What I can see from those pictures on the side of that box, frame and motor are looking pretty authentic too...

I think, it's possible to take pretty good quality pictures with cell phone too. John says it all, and I've tried this too: Use white poster when you take pictures, as a background. And you need good light. Don't take pics too close, otherwise you end up with those pictures on the top. Take pictures from longer distance, and then maybe that cropping. I can't explain it in english, but maybe someone else can explain it better....

That is truly amazing! Everything is scratchbuilt!!! I can't understand, how someone can build this nicely from Sheet styrene. I'm really amazed about your building skills... And I have one question: How thick/thin styrene you use for the body? It looks like pretty easy to bend, but if it's too thin, it's not good either.?

I can't say anything yet. I can finish at least two models in 2011, if I get decals soon, and if there everything else goes as I want. But Pretty much finished models, I'm very happy about what I've done this year.

I've had this problem too, and it's really stupid problem. I've been thinking about taping the hood to the body while painting...? I can't be sure if that works or not, maybe I have to try some time.

Great looking Chop Top Hudson. I really like that top shaping-you've done that Chop really nicely. Maybe that other body looks too massive with that much chopped top. maybe little sectioning would have looked good too. BUT it's not bad now, really nice build so far.

Very cool! I must get at least one of these, even just because of that christmas tree. Dragster is also really great, so this is must have kit.

Very cool Street Rods! I like them all. Can't say, what's my favorite, because they all are very nice. Thanks for posting these, and those photoetched grilles look very good, and they give realistic look, I think.

WOW. All I can say is WOW. That running engine is... I don't know good word for it-"Amazing" is not enough. And those working lights..! I can understand them in car, where is trunk where you can hide all of the electronic systems, but in Pick Up... I'm really amazed.

I think, this is your best build. Great job with it all the way-looks very good. Detailing is great. Very realistic looking paintjob too. I like this one, only mistake, I can see is that mold flash on rear tire. But not bad at all, great build.

Wow, great! Those eyes look good. I like this build very much, that bodywork is great. Paint looks good too. Where are you going to fit that Led set up on finished model?

Thanks, Mark. I like these wheels, and I had to paint those logos, they just look right with those painted on. Usually I like to details wheels and tires nicely, because if they are toyish, whole model looks easily too toyish, I think.

That's looking awfull, and engine needs 4 cylinders more! Personally, I don't like it at all, why it's Dodge Dart, it doesn't look like Dart AT ALL. I understand Camaro or Challenger, and Mustang, because they look- even a bit of those original car models, but not this one. Don't take this too hard-I just hate new cars, exept Camaro, Challenger and Mustang.

I have just a little update. I assembled wheels and tires together. Tires needed no cleaning or anything else, they were ready straight from the box. I painted those red logos from the wheels, and valves are painted black. Assembled them together, and there were no need for glue. Wheel back halves aren't still glued, but this side is ready.

I've been thinking, what to do for that frame. And I decided to do as Chris has done with his Army Vega: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42096&view=findpost&p=566814 That seems to be the easiest way to make really realistic frame. That way, I was trying didn't work as nicely as I wanted, because I can't get it as round enough. So maybe some styrene tubing will help me here. Just needs to pick up right size styrene for that. But I think, it'll be the best way to make realistic frame. I can't scratchbuild one, maybe it would be possible from brass, but not from plastic. So now I need right size styrene tubing. Maybe I'll work with the body while I'm looking for styrene.

It looks like you have too much camber. That's just me, but it looks like that... Check out this link- it's Swedish... http://skallerackers.se/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9492 I translated it with Google Translator. It's not perfect english then, but I think the basic point can be understood... "I was pleased to note that not only am I siom like to build bubbles here on the forum. One of the simpler bubbles building is of course Gunz / GSI Creos / Mr. Hobbies 56: a Oval Box because it is a curbside kit. These are also grateful to convert to such as split boxes if you like! I know that many have seen how I lowered my bubble front and the rear of the former building wires, but now I want to take this opportunity to teach ONE (of many) ways to reduce the bubble front and rear and in as simple a manner as possible! ! We start at the front, JOIN: Cut carefully remove the pins with "shields" from spiders. *1st picture* Saw off the top half of the "box" on the front axle center, who will then be inserted into the base plate bracket *2nd picture* Have you done right, it should look like this when you mount the front axle of the bottom plate infärstning. This moves up the shaft about 2.5 - 3 mm *3rd picture* Finally, you glue back the shields / pins ¸ spiders and move them up while about 2.5 - 3 mm *4th picture* Since you moved the wheel around 5 mm in the wings, it becomes a little short on space and suggested shortening you because the front axle also with approximately 2 + 2 mm by removing approximately 2 mm on either side between the simulated front axle mountings and the "box" on middle of the shaft. *5th, 6th and 7th pictures* This front end is now lowered about 4 - 5 mm and driven about 5-6 mm to the original! OK, it was the front end there! Now we take the rear end too. These old bubbles has a simple jointed rear axle and therefore the bit strange slope of the rear wheels after you cut it, not so nice like some, but entirely proper appearance! Here we go: Start by cutting off control arms and "shock absorbers" *8th, 9th and 10th pictures* "Break" CAREFULLY shoulders up, after having dropped a bit tublim in / over sågjacket the drive shaft. Add some "moderately high" (3-5 mm) distances in the "shields" and forcing the motordummyn against the surface until the glue dried *11th picture* Now will no longer support arms / shocks to fit properly, but you must either extend these little before you place them back or simply build new ones of a pair of rectangular plastic card-bit *12th and 13th pictures* Drill a 3 mm hole in one end of the lever arm and the "open" then the hole in the back as shown *14th and 15th pictures* Drill a 3mm hole in a thin plastic card-piece as shown and open it up on one side *16th and 17th picture* Glue the lever arm as shown and then there the small U-shaped plastic card pieces between the support arm and the "brake shield" *18th and 19th pictures* Now it is almost clear. How should it look like if done right. *20th picture* Finally, cut a small circular "tray" of a piece gjutstam or evergreen rod and mounts on the outside of the control arm at the front mounting *21st picture* What now remains is to fix the "shock tower" and shock absorbers and it will probably be up to each o one depending on what you want in the way. GOOD LUCK!

I like that too-if everything is gold, it doesn't look good... And it's really good point, how long gold paint is on the gearbox before it flakes off... Well, I'm building a factory restored car of course, so it would be golden then. But I'm not sure, needs to think about it. Maybe I could just leave it like that. And I think, many people don't know REALLY without reference pictures, what is factory correct color for 1953 Hudson Hornet transmission.

Great Customs, just like 60's style. Like them both, paintjobs are really great. They both look very good with no big mistakes. I like the style on both too. Very nice pair, Concratulations .

Great job with it! 1960 Impala is really nice car, but in smaller scale, I'd like to have one Bel Air too. Nice conversion, it looks realistic. Finishing is done really nicely, I should be really proud of that.

Cool Hudson, that paintjob is nice. Very shiny and it looks smooth too. Great job on it. Overall look is great and I can find only one mistake from it. That's those air cleaners. You've painted them red, as they are in real car, but those air cleaners inside those air cleaner bottles were black with some silver mesh... But nice Hudson anyway.

Thanks, Cranky. And Chuck, great pictures. Looks like I have some incorrect color choices, like the transmission. Must paint them again, correctly. Nice pictures for reference too.