Steve Keck

RD, I constructed this air cleaner for my '69 pro touring Camaro shown in the Under Glass section. I turned the top and bottom to the housing. ScaleMaster printed the element and I painted it to replicate a K&N filter. The wing nut is from Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland. The threaded rod is from Model Doctor. The PE screen is from Tri-Part. I am answering you in more detail than you probably ever wanted to know. However there are others here who claim to scratch build when they don't. I'll leave it to you whether my air cleaner qualifies.

Right you are, Harry. And thanks for taking the time to clarify the difference for all of that visit here. I, for one, have never scratch built an entire model. Not that others haven't but, I can only bring to mind Mr. Lombardo who has. No offense to those I over looked. And to follow on David's statement, we don't accept that claims of scratch building were innocently confused for kit bashing in build descriptions Maybe you can keep this at the top?

OK, sorry, life got in the way of my plans to post my faux suede technique. Here is a test shot of Krylon Suede. It's perfectly acceptable to me but it's limited in colors. So, here's how to expand the available colors to those in the Tamiya XF series: This techniques works for larger scales, like 1/12th. Materials and tools: Tamiya flat acrylic paint from the XF series Dullcote lacquer Lacquer thinner Baking soda Stirring stick small enough to reach the bottom of your airbrush cup Airbrush. I’m using a Paasche VL with No. 3 needle and cone. I strongly suggest you practice this on scrap first. Mix Dullcote and the XF paint at 1:1 Thin this mixture 1:1 with lacquer thinner Your goal is to stir in as much baking soda as the above mixture will absorb. And still be able to shoot it. Use about 40 psi and shoot from maybe a foot away. Clean the airbrush immediately or the mixture may turn to concrete. Treat the finished surface carefully as it will be delicate. Here’s a 1/12th scale F1 seat and steering wheel I just did:

Thanks! It was a clear day for photography. And you live on the east coast. If you can recognize MJ's house by it's reflection then you've been spending way too much time there! And, if it is MJ's house (and I'm not sayin), then they are MJ's pictures. Is there dust on it? If no, then maybe he shined the paint with Photoshop LOL!

Cool, Romell, I didn't know I'd inspired anyone up till now. My eyes hurt! What color is that? I see you started you signature ghost flames way back then.

OK I will. I was drafting it today and started questioning what I was typing - it's been a while since I used the technique. I will test it tomorrow then post it here.

Thanks everyone for the compliments. Unfortunately it has not aged well. Some of the bodywork has ghosted through. That was the last time I used Krylon primer. And, Gregg, everyone is correct. It's a Supra, not a Celica. Yes, it was on a cover of MCM way back when. And, no, I'm not ignoring Romell. We've been trading PM's. And, I won't ever attempt a WIP documentary like Rommel. Here's my complete WIP: And Danno, for those of us who know you we realize how easy it is for you to Man Up. You're a big man! And watch what you say. I know where you live. I'll drive by with my clique, my possse, and my folicals, both of them. LOL!

Charlie's response got me to thinking. Krylon makes a paint labeled as suede. IIRC it is limited in colors. I've developed an airbrush technique that I really like for 1/12th scale velour. It requires an airbrush. If anyone is interested then PM me and I will share the technique - it's a long winded explanation. For vinyl shoot flat colors then use the oil off your skin, like forehead and the sides of your nose, on your finger tip. Rub the oil into the flat. The resulting sheen will hi-lite the high points of the upholstry.

Very nice, Jon. Is that the kit that includes the plug wire? If so then what else is included in the way of details?

Very nice, clean work, Terry! I especially like the 32 coupe. Are those kit wheels? Is that a cogged blower belt I see on the AA/FA? You asked so I'll comment. The only thing that sticks out to me is I think the corrugations in the air cleaner were meant to replicate a paper filter. Flat white paint here would be the fix.

Mike, There was a series of articles in Scale Auto or Scale Auto Enthusiasts about budget modeling. Maybe someone here has those issues and would be willing to copy them for you. Until recently my only machine tool was a 3/8 inch variable speed reversible hand drill. With it I was able to turn intake trumpets for Weber carbs and turn signal bezels from K&S aluminum tubing. I recently replaced my variable speed Dremel with a $19 two-speed rechargeable one from the big blue box home improvement center that I like much better. Never throw anything away! At least, not before tearing it apart and salvaging parts. Some of the best fan belts I have came from a VCR. Textured foils and texture plastic containers abound. I used a tooth brush package to replicate the tail light lenses on my model of my 1:1 El Camino (see my avatar). Some of us use the clear vacuformed packaging for windows. I have good luck with the $1 bottles of acrylic paint from the craft stores. I thin it with windex and airbrush interiors. Dull coat when done to protect it. Some things I would not advise you to skimp on: paint brushes, tweezers, needle files, pliers, pin vises and rattle can paint. I'll step aside and let others contribute. If you are looking for something in particular PM me.

I too had a problem with posting only one picture so I solved it by posting the rest Under Glass. Find it here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33750

Recently there was question ask about why we post. Well, in considering my answer to that question it occurred to me I don't post many pictures of my in-process or finished models because of the hassle involved. For me it's find the back-up dics or jump drive where the originals are stored, select which ones to upload to Photobucket, do that, then download the links there to this topic. I'd just rather look at other peoples' builds. A new question was posted asking for our favorite build and limiting the response to one picture. So the rest get posted here. This is my TSUNAMI cobbled from two Tamiya Toyota Supras; one street version and one from the 1995 Japanese GT Car Championships. I was influenced by the cars I saw on the streets of southern California. I wanted to build the baddest ________(insert your own nouns and adjectives here). This was finished in 2003 and I sure the movie Fast & Furious influenced the build. The interior tub and engine compartment came from the street version. They were grafted to the Castrol Tom's SupraGT body. Parts of the roll cage were used where practical. Seats were cast from the Tamiya Subaru WRC car. The hood louvers, rear spoiler and some of the ground effects were from a Veilside version of the Supra. The rear clip, from the corners back, and below the trunk lid, is from a Revell Ferrari Modena sectioned 1/2 inch down the center - it almost fell into place. The GT version is a curbside so I used the straight six from the street version. I scratch built the intercoolers and scavenged parts for the turbos and K&N filter. The tower brace was scratch built from sheet aluminum and connected to PE parts. ScaleMaster provided the decals, gas filler and stereo amps. Paint is HOK black with gold pearl powder under urethane clear. Thanks for looking!

It's OK to talk to yourself, Jon, just as long as you don't argue with the replies you get.

OK, Marc, maybe I've lost it but to me the hood looks to be a shade off.

I HAVE to be different! I color coat and clear the outside first; then polish it. Next I will mask off the outside with Parafilm and paint the inside. I like Parafilm for masking as I can get a sharp line with it and it will not harm the paint nor lift the paint on removal. If I get overspray on the outside it is an easy fix to just polish off the overspray. To mask a sharp edge with Parafilm use a sharp blade at about 45 degrees and lightly scrape off the unwanted Parafilm. Use a light touch. Note that Parafilm sticks best to glossy surfaces. I also use it to protect color coats and polished paints while handling and assembly.

LOL! Just discussing your post alone could take us to four pages! Aren't numbers 1 & 5 redundant? But, I digress. Why do I post? I don't post many pictures as I don't need many atta boys. All my friends tell me where I could improve so that's covered. I contribute here where I can. And It keeps me out of the bars.

Mike, Are not many 1:1 vehicles art? Many show cars, trucks and cycles are never intended for the street. And, let’s not forget the concept cars. Many of these may fall into your “sooooo cool†category. The question I have to answer for myself is “what is the builder trying to portray?†So what if it’s not practical? Here’s a model of a show truck I stumbled across yesterday: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26829&hl=foose&st=0 Is this truck functional? NOT! Do I like it? YES! To me its way cool. Does it look right to me? Not when I think speed bumps. Yet. it could well be built in the 1:1 world as art. However, I don’t believe it would ever be become a 1:1 truck without modifying its form. And that would be wrong. I think function limits form. The more functional a vehicle is the more it will need to be mechanically sound. It’s a balancing act. I’ve done some customs and phantoms but I try to make them “feasibly functional†like street vehicles having curb clearance, mufflers and tire clearance in the wheel wells.

I am doing a two-tone paint job. All House of Kolor, purple pearl something over basecoat white. Would I be better off applying Intercoat clear over the basecoat before masking to shoot the purple? I'm thinking masking over the clear will provide a finer line than over just the basecoat. Thanks!

The Purple Pond is Castrol Super Clean. There is a similar one at wally world IIRC. Someone will correct me. Here's a similar discussion: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32298 I don't believe it will loosen the glue. Someone will correct me. There is a technique where you dip the model in water then freeze it. Sort of like styrene errosion. Maybe someone can expand on the technique.

I have to agree whole-heartedly with David, aka, Karmodeler2. In my opinion there are very few that frequent this board that do not have the potential to achieve the benchmark Junkman refers to. In my opinion what separates the "master modeler" from the rest is the choice David speaks about. The one thing Junkman left off his list that I feel is the real catalyst is "desire". Add desire to the mix and the rest can all be overcome. I don't always choose to do what it takes to reach the master modeler's benchmark. I may evaluate my work and recognize a flaw and choose not to fix it. I may decide to do an OOB build with only rattle can paint without resulting to enduring the polishing cloth's torture. The operative word is choice. Years ago I chose a competitor to be my mentor. I joke that I told him of my choice years later. He jokes that he told me all he wanted me to know! He also told me he helped me because I applied what he offered. I've sought out (and continue to do so) the help of several of the "master modelers" here and they have all been very helpful. I guess that was their choice.

OK, my turn to contribute. Unless I missed it in all the replies my setup is unique. And, I DIDN'T SAY BETTER! LOL! My first was a Paasche VL. I still use it when I don't want to risk my others. A real good friend gave my a Tamiya HG Superfine and a Tamiya HG pistol grip trigger-type. The pistol grip is reserved for clears. I couldn't be happier with the Tamiya airbrushes. Instead of a compressor I power my airbrushes with compressed air. It's totally quite and clean. When my Badger compressor started to go bad I decided to switch to a quieter setup. Air fills cost $5 and last for about three models - primer, color coats and clear as well as all interior and detail work. The air is totally dry and filtered for human consumption. I already owned the SCUBA first stage and low pressure hose with a quick connect fitting. The cost of a SCUBA tank was comparable to a new Badger compressor. I connect the SCUBA low pressure hose via a quick connect to a pressure regulator and second filter (because they came as a unit). Next in line after the regulator/filter is a quick connect fixture for the airbrush hose. For convenience all three airbrushes have a smaller version of the quick connectors.

Monty, I would guess the tab is intended to be used as a handle? I have assembled them without the tab - no problem. I used a dowel or tubing to align all pieces before gluing. Super glue will work. Apply it sparingly along the outside edge.

Jose, Fortunately or unfortunately digital photography hides nothing. I'll let you review your pictures for areas requiring improvement. I see that you put a lot of care into your modeling. One area that you can easily fix is to sag the plug wires as if gravity is having it way with them.

Len, try http://www.google.com/images?q=auto+outline+clipart&hl=en&safe=off&gbv=2&tbs=isch%3A1&imgtype=i_similar&sa=X&ei=bJpNTKzDOoq8sQPOp9hI&ct=img-sim-l&oi=image_sil&resnum=1&tbnid=at83Yn_BHwM8fM: