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Everything posted by MrObsessive
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Very interesting tip about the tape! That's the first I've heard of that. I wish I had known about that when I was doing my '74 Corvette resto. It would have made things easier since I molded it so the windshield mounts from the outside as opposed to the inside like most models.
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two tone suggestion
MrObsessive replied to suprafastcelica's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
HA! Great minds think alike! -
two tone suggestion
MrObsessive replied to suprafastcelica's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Adding to what David said, another tip to try is paint some clearcoat on the edges of the tape before you paint. The clear can act as a barrier against any run-under and when you pull the tape away it should give you a nice straight edge. Speaking of tape, there's only two types of masking I'll trust. BMF and Tamiya tape. BMF while a bit expensive can't be beat for giving you the cleanest edge possible, especially if you plan on doing tiny trim for instance. Here are pics of an '05 Mustang I built.......I wanted dual stripes and I found the Tamiya tape to be excellent for that. The clear film you see is Parafilm. Excellent for masking off areas, not so great for getting defined edges. You mentioned the liquid decal film. I've had trouble with that in the past as it didn't play nice with certain types of paints. Namely water based acrylics. One caveat is to make sure that the paint is completely dry before putting it on, even so I've not found it to be great for giving you those nice, straight and clean edges. HTH! -
Bruce, sorry I didn't answer you before. I'm at work and sometimes depending on what's going on, I can stay connected..........or not. It might be a good idea to test out the Liquitex on a plastic spoon or something that you put the Molotow on. Just to ward off any potential surprises, but that should work. EDIT: OK, I just saw your latest post. One thing I've learned about Molotow is that they need to dry COMPLETELY before putting anything over them or handling for that matter. I'm talking perhaps a week or so and I don't recommend putting it in any kind of dehydrator or whatnot unless it has sat for a day or longer. Hope this helps!
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I can remember when I got my first computer around the 2002-03 time frame. It was a Compaq desktop with 500 MB of RAM and a 3GB hard disc. Not long after I put in a 20GB and thought I was doin' something! Now my desktop has a 1TB disc in it with 4GB of RAM. I'm also running Windows 10 om a Dell desktop. I think this will be the last upgrade as the computer is about 10 years old now. Yup! I have a 1TB USB powered portable disc that I use from time to time to store videos and such as that can suck up quite a bit of space after a time.
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I meant to ask this before..........which OS are you running? Windows 10 for instance is a HUGE memory hog as opposed to previous versions. As Peter said and I agree, too many programs running can take a toll on RAM. If you're going to do a full reinstall, just make sure everything of importance is backed up. Nothing's more frustrating when a disc is wiped clean, only to realize you didn't back up important pics and documents. Also, you'll want to make sure that you have the discs or at least access to whatever programs you have on there now before a reinstall. This might mean getting hold of product keys and whatnot. Hope all this has helped!
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I'm not a super computer geek, but adding 'RAM' (Random Access Memory) will involve a lot more than just a plug in via USB. It's not hard to do.......you can go on Crucial.com to get an idea what your system has and how much more (if at all) your system can take. It will involve taking the desktop tower apart somewhat and either adding or replacing the cards inside. I do strongly recommend if you take this on, that you ground yourself. One small zap from your carpet or what have you can ruin the entire card(s). Someone that knows a bit more than me can jump in, but I've not heard of "plug in" memory as it is a hardware issue and involves the CPU (Central Processing Unit) to be able to know what's up at all times. I ran across this article here which can also give you tips on how to add more RAM without adding RAM physically. Hope this helps! I've had to do this years ago as I had a slow desktop, but I just bit the bullet and installed more RAM and along with it a new 1TB drive.
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Nice to see the '59 Imperial back! Prices were starting to get a little salty on the 'Bay with those so hopefully its return will put the kibosh on that. I have one, but I'd like another one or two. I'd definitely like one to kitbash with Paul Hettick's upcoming Imperial Crown four door hardtop and then there's a '58 two door hardtop conversion I'd like to do as I have all the bits and pieces for that now.
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Aaaah! I thought this was one of THE COOLEST cars when this came out! As a seventh grader I can still remember trying to draw pictures of the car while I was in class. Didn't always go over too well with the teacher! The resin looks pretty good, but for me personally I'd have to do this car in plastic. There's so much I'd like to do with it that resin pretty much prohibits.
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Why thanks Bill!
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I love this! I've had this kit (along with the '67 'Vette) ever since they came out, but I've never done a thing with it. Yours is coming along sooo nice! You've given me some inspiration to dig mine out and take a second hard look!
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What the others have described is an absolute MUST for me especially when it comes to opening doors. Kits are too expensive to buy multiples of, only to cut one up for the doors or trunk so you'll have a smaller gap. I add the plastic as the others have shown, but I want to add that one way to check to make sure you don't have too large of a gap is what I do as shown in the pic below............ Here's WIP pic of my '63 Turbine Car from years ago. Now the doors were already cut open, but the shut lines left much to be desired IMO. I added plastic (.020 thickness) to the perimeter of the doors and I like to use the 3x5 card method for checking gaps. If the card slips through the gap fairly easily without trouble, then it should be okay. One has to allow for paint thickness down the road so the shut lines can't be too tight. It can also ensure that your gaps are pretty much even all the way around. Hope this helps!
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Bruce, this is looking terrific! A word about Molotow.......one can't put any type of alcohol based clear (Future) over it . Molotow contains alcohol and it'll dull the finish as you've seen. One idea to protect the finish is to put some 'Liquitex' over it after it completely dries. There's some folks on Facebook that have tried it and they swear by it. I just bought a bottle of Liquitex recently and I'll be doing the same thing when it comes time to need it. Hope this helps and keep up the great work!
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Great bodywork Pat! Just the thing I like to see! Makes it tricky though if I tried that to do opening doors. Good observation about the quarter window. I have this kit, but it's been so long since I looked at it I hadn't paid that any attention. I do remember getting an extra '71 Charger as I had in mind to kitbash those two also one of these days.
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Thanks Tom! Wow how time does fly! I looked at the date when I originally made this post and it's hard to believe it's heading on TEN years since I did this! I still have the '49 Mercury......it just sits in the case and I take it out and look at it every now and then.
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Modelmaster 2 step Lacquer sprays
MrObsessive replied to bluenote's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
1963 Chevrolets come to mind when I think of Silver Blue paint. You mention that it's two step........was a clear needed over the colors basically? Yeah Steve, I'm fussy about metallic flake size also which is why when I go to my local paint guy to have paint mixed, he knows to use the smallest metallic particles possible so it's 'in scale'. -
Now THIS is ridiculous!
MrObsessive replied to MrObsessive's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
LOL! I still find myself calling a manual a "standard"! Interesting............when I was looking for another car after I knew my Saturn had to go, I wanted a manual but my Challenger is an 'automatic'. I have that in quotes as it's one of those 'manumatic' type trans. I have to admit I'm spoiled now as it's the first automatic car I've had since the late '90's. I've had it four years and if the time comes I need another car, I'm not sure my knees can take constant shifting anymore. Oh well.........time marches on and some things we could do in our 20's, 30's and 40's just ain't the case now! -
I think I’m done with Duplicolor
MrObsessive replied to Brutalform's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Another pic of that '55.......... -
I think I’m done with Duplicolor
MrObsessive replied to Brutalform's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yup! I HIGHLY recommend this stuff! I airbrush mine though as I'm not a big fan of their cans. Here's a car that I painted many years ago now that was undercoated with Future and then I shot primer and color coats over it. If you're familiar with this model you know that it's molded in red. Monogram's '56 T-Bird that I backdated to a '55. Their red plastic is IMO notorious for showing through gray and even white primer for instance and I wanted to avoid that as some military builders I know had recommended it at the time. As you can see, the T-Bird Blue is not showing any signs of red and with the bodywork that was done to turn this into a '55, you won't see that showing either. The main reason I don't use Future much anymore is because as I mentioned..........you need a lot of it to make sure it does the job as it shrinks incredibly. Hope this helps! -
1/25, 1978 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz Custom Classic.
MrObsessive replied to Jeffcad's topic in Model Cars
Oooooh! That is SUPER gorgeous! Just like I remember 'em with the half vinyl roof and all! One of the last luxo barges! -
Overall, not bad at all! Just a little suggestion.......if you're going to use the Molotow pens, it would be a good idea if you masked off those areas so you'll get a straighter line. More work as if it's BMF, but worth it in the long run.
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Which browser are you using? IE (Internet Explorer) doesn't seem IMO to play as nice as FireFox. And don't get me started on Chrome..........I don't care for that one at all! Make sure you're signed in also. That may help with the download/upload issue.
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Now THIS is ridiculous!
MrObsessive replied to MrObsessive's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yeah it does! He's running 18" wheels though while there are 20's on mine. -
If this helps, you can let the Future sit out for a bit and let it 'thicken' up to reduce the chance of it running. IMO, though if you want a more trouble free clear, I'd give Tamiya's X-22 Acrylic Clear a try. One drawback though is it can take quite some time to dry thoroughly and this is where having a dehydrator comes in mighty handy. I've used this as a clear coat in the past, let it sit in the dehydrator overnight and the next day the clear was hard as a rock and ready for wet sanding and polishing. One other problem I have with Future is that its shrinking capabilities are TREMENDOUS! It can look like you DO have enough on, but check back an hour later and not so much. Proceed with great caution if you want to go the Future route for final clear coats.