Steven Zimmerman

Welcome from northwestern Pa here, 65 years young.............'Z' , Steven Zimmerman Meadville Pa

You must remember , too....When we wer 11 - 12, etc....we would buy a model car and finish it in one evening...........

Don't know if I agree with the 'kids have no money' comment. They have no problems spending 30 - 60 bucks on a video game, or 3 - 400 bucks on a game player.; or a smart phone, or hundred dollar tennis shoes. Most have money, just different priorities. Agree with the attention span thing, though....We've raised them to expect instant gratification...........'Z'

I received my order, 30 sets of whitewalls, in about 8 weeks. Considering everything, I am happy with that......'Z'

It does look good! I would have to argue with your comment about wishing you had it to drive, though. My Dad had a '65 Galaxie 500 when I was 19 and was Turquoise also.I didn't have a car of my own but after taking it once I never drove it again! It was the most sloppy thing on wheels.. down right scary. Even as a teenager without a car I refused to drive it! It almost rubbed the outside rockers on mild curves and wallowed down the road. This is the vehicle that turned me away from American cars to this day, although I know they have improved greatly since this low period. Just because your dad's car didn't handle well, doesn't mean all 65 Galaxies; or all 'American' cars - are that way. My second car was a 65 Ford Galaxie 500 XL, and I thought it handled pretty well, back in 1970, and I put close to 40,000 miles on it . Of course, it didn't handle like a corvette, but I was quite pleased with it, both in performance and handling.. . Maybe your dad's car needed shocks, coil springs, and an alignment.....'Z'

While neither of the ones I voted on were picked, I respectfully suggest we wait until we actually SEE the test shots of these ? I'm beginning to think this hobby that has meant so much to me for 50 plus years, is full of whining, sniffling crybabies who would rather cut down something they haven't SEEN yet, then to actually offer constructive positive comments ? Yeah, they could both be total failures, or beautiful renditions - but it won't matter, as soon as they are released some nincompoops will go into 'AUTO DISTRUCT' mode - and frankly, I'm getting sick and tired of it. Saw it with the RAT ROASTER. The ford wagon. The latest version (STREET MACHINE) AMT 57 Chevy; the list is endless..... Steven Zimmerman

Beautiful job ! ....We need this in plastic, or resin !.......'Z'

Many a time, back when cars had ignition coils , plugs, and points....Would make up a coil wire, using the boots off a real one, and attach them to a piece of rubber hose , and replace the coil wire with it.....'Z'

Good film, even better book.

There are several aftermarket (1 / 1) dist. caps, that locate the wires '4 on the left and 4 on the right' Since I don't build 'stock' I do this to most of my builds....Of course, a lot of your newer engines have 8 separate coils, mounted on the valve covers, under a shield.....Also aftermarket valve covers that have the wires running through the valve covers, to separate coils, under the top of the valve cover, and then you have the 'trigger mount' wires, come off the front of the engine, down in front of the harmonic balancer - Harmonic balancers, another added detail a lot of people forget about !.....'Z'

AGREE on the Riv wires, I would buy a BUNCH !

I use clear acrylic paint

I sent him 4 racks of assorted wheels, etc , to be chromed...prepped as per his instructions, and all in separate freezer zip lock bags........I got back 4 racks of 'stuff' looking like it had been dipped in over thinned, transparent silver paint (you could see right through it), with gobs of monkey snot in it. NO explanation, nothing. It took me numerous emails, in which he told me I didn't understand the process ( I do). And FINALLY, I got 1 /3 of my money back. I will never send them anything again. Ever.

Measured them with calipers, got 1.11 - 1.12 , right on the money. Finding that flexible tires are hard to measure ! (or I'm a gittin OLD !)

Sorry, 1" mics....not payin attention !......'Z'

AMT 'new' F 60, mic. 1.028 dia. , ,section width measured .354....AMT L 60, 1.00 overall dia. and section width, 0.42, pretty close, IMHO !.....'Z'

Only way to tell is to actually measure them ..."I think"....or "they look" I understand, but measure them. BTW, almost ALL L-60's manufactured by different companies were different in width and height. I personally believe the new white lettered 'POLYGLAS GT' available in the new AMT wheel sets (L - 60 / f - 60) are GREAT looking, and I hope they sell all they can produce! One thing I have found as I grow older - What we remember vs. what actually WAS, are two different animals. I 'remember' the G - 70 being a HUGE tire.....but it wasn't.....'Z'

I pour a lot of resin wheels, and use the Alumalite 'white' resin, offered under the label 'AMAZING resin' , it has a longer working time before solidifying, and have had better results then their tan resin. I spray my molds with a mold release called STONER, and after pouring, I use cheap paintbrushes, with the bristles trimmed to about a quarter inch, and quickly run it around the wheel mold, spending extra attention to the recesses where the wheel 'lip' is. I buy these brushes at Hobby Lobby or Walmart, cost about a buck for 30 brushes. If you clean the brush immediately, you can use it several times. Also, I don't lay anything across the top of the mold, but slowly swipe a credit card size piece of plastic slowly across the top of the mold, removing excessive resin. Walmart offers , in the kitchen utensils dept, a set of 4 'counter top' protectors, size of a placemat, and is flexible - and CHEAP.... I cut them to business card size. Resin will stick, but peels off easily...........I also place my filled molds in a food dehydrator immediately, as small pieces like wheels don't create enough heat to harden alone - I leave mine for a half hour, using a 2 dollar kitchen wind up timer and let the molds cool for 5 minutes after removing, or they will still be soft.....'Z'

Pegasus offers tire sets, without wheels ; I don't know how their 'sizes' compare, though.....

I have had dealings with Shep, and , although he may be a little outspoken, he' an OK guy. He bought resin from a dealer, who assured him he mastered them himself; Is Shep supposed to spend hours scouring the internet looking for other similar products ," just in case "....? He did exactly what I, and many others in the same situation,, would have done. I disagree with his remark about contact FORD , but some here accused him of copying someone's products, which he did not....How would YOU have responded, given the same situation ? Think about that long and hard, before you judge.....Has anyone actually compared the two bodies in question , side by side, to see if they are direct copies ? I understand where Scott is coming from, he has every right to be upset, if someone is capitalizing on his hard work, but do we know they are copies ?

I understand, I like them quite a bit too - that's why I asked (GRIN) Thanks anyway; just wish I would have kept all those sets I gave away, or cut up, etc. many years ago, when I didn't see their potential; and they're too darn hard to cast...........'Z'

I visit Hobby Lobby ( 100 mile round trip ) on average of twice a month, year round. My wife and I use 40% off coupons every time, available on line 24/7, and combine it with trips to PETSMART, A.C.MOORE, Michaels, Harbor Freight, and Potrats, a big gardening place / greenhouse and OLLIES, and a few others in Erie, Pa. And even if HL marks up their kits, 40% off makes it reasonable. .....'Z'

Kind of looks like those old J C WHITNEY whitewalls that were held in place by 'sandwiching' the whitewall between the tire and the rim, (Giving away my age here.....) you may have just stumbled on a diorama use, here !......'Z

If you aren't going to use the wheels and tires, I would be glad to trade you something for them. ...Steven Zimmerman

Take an appropriately sized drill, and drill through a 1/4" piece of mild steel. Take drill bit out of drill, reverse drill bit and use as a punch., place screen over drilled hole, gently tap drill 'punch' into drilled hole. This will cut the screen neatly and cleanly, into the size you want, then proceed to the 'dap' stage.....'Z'