ARTEMIS1759

I agree there is a lot of thread hi-jacking though and I think most of us are guilty of it. I know I have posted a couple of Hi-jacks. Which I am sorry for.

Yeah but the guys from the 60's know what I am talking about, lol. I wish I was born around the 30's or 40's and grew up at the beginning of the rod and custom craze though. Car hops, fast cool cars, fast women and miles and miles of new roads, hi-ways and drag strips to cruise.

Although, if you want safety stay away from the 58 and up Chevys with X-frame. They did a crash test with a '59 Bel Air 4 door and a 2008 Impala I believe and the 2008 won. The X frame was a piss poor design. Destroyed both cars but once the 2008 rounded the edge of the frame where it dips under the body it tore the 59 up.

I don't know. I have come to the conclusion that it is just who owned them before you. Before my 94 Yukon I never owned anything newer then an 81 Chevy Blazer and all my vehicles had more then 100k and some even pushing 200k. '69 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 with 4:56's and a superlow granny 4 speed with 240,000. 1958 Chevy 4 door Biscayne with 235 I6 and 3 speed with OD and 4:11s with posi with 190,000. '79 Dodge Pickup with 360 and Auto with 260,000. These were all second or third owner. and with newer vehicles I noticed stuff likes to start going out too like the old ones but seems to start at 100k and a lot more expensive. Seems like once it starts until the whole car is rebuilt it don't quit.

Bump... Remember though...If you remember the 60s you weren't really there.

Well, I suppose I just as well hijack said thread.... Tom and Jerry...Best ###### cartoon ever. Got every episode from 1940 up to the early 70s. No new ######.

You know just for a logo you should throw "orange crush" signs on it and throw some crates in back.

That is some nice builds.

Sweet build. 1st time I saw it was in H.G. Haliki's original gone in 60 Seconds.

It's always nice to have a wife or girlfriend who understand the things we obssess over. If you haven't found one you haven't looked hard enough.

OK so check this out. Apparently the car was stolen in 94 from Sly and then it resurfaced last year on the net and he is suing for the car and 3 million in damages. http://stallonezone.com/wordpress/?cat=26 And here is the front seat interior pic and a few others. Rear I would imagine should be the same design. Even an engine pic of the supercharged 350. Don't forget the Nitrous switch on the dash.: http://photos.tmz.com/galleries/stallones_stolen_cobra_car#id=57099 I guess now we know where the stolen car went.

I will see if I can find the link. Someone was restoring one of the surviving originals. Here are a few. Not great but shows a few bits: http://www.famouscars.de/images/citycobra/citycobra.htm

Thats awesome. Wish we had craeture comforts like that in our HMMWVs. We get a seat that maybe was manufactured for a WWII Jeep and then we have to make our own Speaker/stereo Boxes:

That's awesome Raul. Inspiring.

Right... but this model represents a car with an engine, even though it does not actually have one. Kind of like an old Craftsman series kit, you know? And I might actually add an engine later on, so I can weather the engine compartment and engine to match the body's condition. But yeah- I've got a '70 Monte Carlo model somewhere, with the hood hinges standing at attention and the nose way up in the air- just wasn't the look I wanted with THIS particular kit! That's cool. Still looks good though.

Both rigs look good.

It looks great. Only thing I would say coming from a 1:1 builder is without a motor you should try to pull the tires (by tweeking the front suspension)downwards and in a little. Because once that big block is pulled out the front end raises probably 2 to 3 inches. Then it has the old gasser look which is what they look like without an engine. Like this (though not a real good pic: See how the tires clear the fenderwells by at least 2-3 inches?

As an artist too my feel is generally a single action works good for general surface one color painting. (ie model bodies), dual action works good for intricate work for murals in art work and details in models. But it just depends on how much control you want over the flow of paint. I used a cheapie singleaction to paint a Supra and it looked pretty good.

Also check this link for your camera: http://www.dxgusa.com/CustomerService/Manuals/DXG305VE.pdf On page 23 it tells how to take closeups.

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/album.php?aid=175668&id=701323457&ref=mf If you check this link to my Lego builds these were taken with a Kodak Easyshare C340. I believe it was 200 new. (got it from a friend for free while on deployment). Works awesome for closeups and anything else.

Yep also at the PX for my fellow military folk. I know we got the stuff comin' out of our ears here in Kosovo.

You know on the note of tires...some tires like coker sells would be good. Wide whites, old school dirt track firestones, etc.

Yeah I like anything from the Lumina's back. That is when NASCAR racing was still worth watching.

Thats a nice flame job on the one pic of the 1:1.

Nice drawings. I usually sign mine above the shadow from under the car but more recently I started using a swooping signature using only my initials. But, I used to have one I sketched of an old horse drawn hearse with a few more horses then what it originally had. I will have to redo it. I lost most of my art work when my wife moved which pisses me off. Lucky I have photos of most of the good ones. Anyhow it has a supercharged 409 with sidepipe/stacks which follow the body contours. Has 6 spoke wood/aluminum wheels and reigns that attach to the blower. I also want to do one as a hotrod I saw a few years back behind a shop in Bismarck. Looked like late 20s model T with a fully detailed glass sided wood hearse body. Check out my link under my art work.