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Cool Hand

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Everything posted by Cool Hand

  1. Started some conversion work with the interior for the Custom HQ Holden. Oob. Converted to 2dr and new flat panels to build upon. Thinking some tuck n roll might be the go. And update on the Pano, it has been wet sanded and polished, bmf done, so time for final detail work and assemblies and get it completed.
  2. Very cleanly built throughout the whole build, enjoyed watching the wip. End result looks great. Well done.
  3. Looks great Bob, overall a classy looking ride. You know im liking the black red combo with all that chrome. And yeah its inspiring and motivating how you always push through and overcome problems and get your builds done. Job well done sir.
  4. Good job detailing the engine. And judging the GTX paint job id say its time to paint the HQ mate.
  5. Nice one Brock, good to see a build from you mate and still adventurous with paint work.
  6. Body prep done, bumpers tucked, smoothed the tail light panel and painted the wheel centers.
  7. Thanks Bob, going to be interesting to see if the colours I chose look the part or will it end up in the lacquer thinner bath and need a rethink on colours.
  8. Interesting. Obviously had to check in and see what the deal is with Ute being the title.
  9. I need a test mule to work out what I want to do for a paint job on the HQ custom. So dug out one of my favorite kits for messing about and test out ideas. And like always the first thing to do is choose the wheels and the stance is set. Going to shave the rear script, door lock, front side marker and flush the door handle. Also tuck the bumpers a bit so they dont stick out as much. Wont be doing too much other than basic body prep and keep it a simple oob.
  10. Thanks Mathias, it looks good as a 2dr hard top for sure. Cheers Stu, ive built the HQ in all the styles I like. So wanted to try do something different. Thanks Brock, thats the era where I got most of the idea's and inspiration from.
  11. Well thats all the body modifications roughed in, few more rounds of sanding and primer/surfacer 1200.
  12. Shaved the trim from around the side windows. Scribed around front window trim, filled the cowl vents, wiper mounting holes and panel lines. Filled front bumper mounting holes, increased the size of the grill opening and grill surround. Now onto rear bumper delete and smooth out the rear.
  13. Looks great done as a modern street machine. Nice colour and wheels. Who's design are the wheels ??
  14. Thanks Brian. I done the radius first. Used Dspiae 0.15 to scribe new door lines.
  15. First idea for the custom HQ done. Before scribing new door lines to make it a 2dr. After. And using same technique I did on the LJ Torana, filled the original door lines with 3D printer resin. Also filled the door handle pockets, side mirror mounting hole and removed the B pillar. DDA collectibles havent manufactured the hard top coupe kit yet, so I made my own 😁 So happy with how it looks so far. Moving onto the the next idea.
  16. So while I wait............ why not start another. Need to try out some idea's I have for an old school full custom HQ. And like all builds it starts with wheels and stance. Out of the box stance. After some quick adjustments, much better.
  17. Sanded and applied another full coat of 1200 surfacer. Will set it aside and let it cure for a bit, then come back to it sand again and apply more surfacer.
  18. Thanks Brian. Thanks Mathias, cant take credit for it, I learnt from others. Will see how it holds up I guess Thanks Ken, just copied how they do it on the 1:1's, hardest part was sanding the styrene to shape that was used to fill the gap.
  19. I can totally relate with troubles applying bmf, thats why I always take the time scribe around pretty much all trim. It a tedious task but makes trimming the foil so much easier. Reasons I started doing it, I was having trouble seeing the trim edge after I applied the foil and also after a few layers of primer, paint and clear the trim edge loses its sharpness and makes it hard to guide the blade. And 2K clear is high build which can bury the trim and you lose the edge to guide the blade. I experienced that on a couple builds and its why I prefer not to use 2K clears. Davids recommendation of using the masking is certainly a great technique that works very well too. Soldier on Bob you will get it done like always.
  20. Filled the gap with some 2mm styrene and shaped to match. Opened up the joins and beveled the edges slightly. Then filled the joins with AnyCubic Standard resin I use for my 3D printer, its very thin so it wicks in really good. Cured the resin with a UV torch. Had seen a few car modelers use the technique so thought id try it out Applied another layer to bring the resin just above flush with the surface. And back filled the inside for added strength. The cured resin wet sands easily with 400 grit. Didnt get any pictures was in rush mode and just proceeded to applying 1200 gray surfacer. Overall pretty good for first round of sanding. Another round of sanding and surfacer should be all it needs.
  21. Dupli color solvent is fairly hot, you can see how it has etched and crazed the plastic the spoon is made from. Its also a base coat colour, so it will require a clear coat. If you ever use Dupli Color on a model, make sure you have at least 2 coats of fully cured primer. And apply the color using light coats. Now you have seen and experienced why we recommend using Tamiya spray cans until you become more familiar with the painting process. If anything you might have put on too heavy coat. Yes it very fumey, but with right protection and short time exposure it should minimize any reaction to your health condition. Keep at it, you'll be right mate.
  22. Made a start stretching the rear wheel arch on the LJ Torana. Also adjusted the stance, lowering a bit. Now to fill the gap and blend the joins.
  23. Yeah Stu, once in a while things will stuff up. All part of learning. Always a little bit of anxiety with model building when 80% is all about paint work.
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