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Cool Hand

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Everything posted by Cool Hand

  1. Cool Hand
    🤔
  2. Cool Hand
    Interesting. Obviously had to check in and see what the deal is with Ute being the title.
  3. Cool Hand
    I need a test mule to work out what I want to do for a paint job on the HQ custom. So dug out one of my favorite kits for messing about and test out ideas. And like always the first thing to do is choose the wheels and the stance is set. Going to shave the rear script, door lock, front side marker and flush the door handle. Also tuck the bumpers a bit so they dont stick out as much. Wont be doing too much other than basic body prep and keep it a simple oob.
  4. Cool Hand
    Thanks Mathias, it looks good as a 2dr hard top for sure. Cheers Stu, ive built the HQ in all the styles I like. So wanted to try do something different. Thanks Brock, thats the era where I got most of the idea's and inspiration from.
  5. Cool Hand
    Well thats all the body modifications roughed in, few more rounds of sanding and primer/surfacer 1200.
  6. Cool Hand
    Shaved the trim from around the side windows. Scribed around front window trim, filled the cowl vents, wiper mounting holes and panel lines. Filled front bumper mounting holes, increased the size of the grill opening and grill surround. Now onto rear bumper delete and smooth out the rear.
  7. Cool Hand
    Looks great done as a modern street machine. Nice colour and wheels. Who's design are the wheels ??
  8. Cool Hand
    Thanks Brian. I done the radius first. Used Dspiae 0.15 to scribe new door lines.
  9. Cool Hand
    First idea for the custom HQ done. Before scribing new door lines to make it a 2dr. After. And using same technique I did on the LJ Torana, filled the original door lines with 3D printer resin. Also filled the door handle pockets, side mirror mounting hole and removed the B pillar. DDA collectibles havent manufactured the hard top coupe kit yet, so I made my own 😁 So happy with how it looks so far. Moving onto the the next idea.
  10. Cool Hand
    So while I wait............ why not start another. Need to try out some idea's I have for an old school full custom HQ. And like all builds it starts with wheels and stance. Out of the box stance. After some quick adjustments, much better.
  11. Cool Hand
    Sanded and applied another full coat of 1200 surfacer. Will set it aside and let it cure for a bit, then come back to it sand again and apply more surfacer.
  12. Cool Hand
    Thanks Brian. Thanks Mathias, cant take credit for it, I learnt from others. Will see how it holds up I guess Thanks Ken, just copied how they do it on the 1:1's, hardest part was sanding the styrene to shape that was used to fill the gap.
  13. Cool Hand
    I can totally relate with troubles applying bmf, thats why I always take the time scribe around pretty much all trim. It a tedious task but makes trimming the foil so much easier. Reasons I started doing it, I was having trouble seeing the trim edge after I applied the foil and also after a few layers of primer, paint and clear the trim edge loses its sharpness and makes it hard to guide the blade. And 2K clear is high build which can bury the trim and you lose the edge to guide the blade. I experienced that on a couple builds and its why I prefer not to use 2K clears. Davids recommendation of using the masking is certainly a great technique that works very well too. Soldier on Bob you will get it done like always.
  14. Cool Hand
    Filled the gap with some 2mm styrene and shaped to match. Opened up the joins and beveled the edges slightly. Then filled the joins with AnyCubic Standard resin I use for my 3D printer, its very thin so it wicks in really good. Cured the resin with a UV torch. Had seen a few car modelers use the technique so thought id try it out Applied another layer to bring the resin just above flush with the surface. And back filled the inside for added strength. The cured resin wet sands easily with 400 grit. Didnt get any pictures was in rush mode and just proceeded to applying 1200 gray surfacer. Overall pretty good for first round of sanding. Another round of sanding and surfacer should be all it needs.
  15. Cool Hand
    Dupli color solvent is fairly hot, you can see how it has etched and crazed the plastic the spoon is made from. Its also a base coat colour, so it will require a clear coat. If you ever use Dupli Color on a model, make sure you have at least 2 coats of fully cured primer. And apply the color using light coats. Now you have seen and experienced why we recommend using Tamiya spray cans until you become more familiar with the painting process. If anything you might have put on too heavy coat. Yes it very fumey, but with right protection and short time exposure it should minimize any reaction to your health condition. Keep at it, you'll be right mate.
  16. Cool Hand
    Made a start stretching the rear wheel arch on the LJ Torana. Also adjusted the stance, lowering a bit. Now to fill the gap and blend the joins.
  17. Cool Hand
    Yeah Stu, once in a while things will stuff up. All part of learning. Always a little bit of anxiety with model building when 80% is all about paint work.
  18. Cool Hand
    Tools and supplies.
  19. Cool Hand
    Yeah is what it is Bob, cant be successful 100% of the time. Always will be a paint job or 2 that go bad every once in a while. Thankfully it was only old style Aoshima kits being built as slammers, so no stress just deal with the situation, strip and repaint. Yeah definitely will only use Mr Colour GX-100 Super Clear III from now on. Both have are back in surfacer with check coat applied, As expected few spots will need some further work. Its odd the engine bay looks great no issues 🤣 Have to redo putty work on this one, lacquer thinner dissolved it. Now that spanner in the works is partially out the way, I can get back to the LJ Torana pro street.
  20. Cool Hand
    Other Skyline back to bare plastic. So time to reset and try again with these two. Thankfully the Pano clear coat turned out pretty good, I will let it sit and cure for week, then come back to it and get it completed. Has fine orange peel texture which will easily be sorted out with a light wet sand and compound polish.
  21. Cool Hand
    Well I payed the price for not using the clear that I always use. For some reason decided to use same brand clear as the pearl base coat, which I know from experience has a very hot thinner solvent. I must have put the last wet coat on a bit heavy as it disturbed all the pearl pigments and soaked right through to the plastic. Funny that @STU111 and I were mentioning clear ruining the paint the other day and he we are 🤣 Was a bit annoyed so straight into a bath of Tamiya Lacquer thinner. Problem solved and now back to bare plastic. Its just paint so easy to strip and start again. And the other pearl paint job was the same. Not as bad with the pearl being disturbed but soaked right in and ruined the under lying base coat. Slight bit of crazing the plastic on the roof, hoping that should sand out. So yeah it is currently having a Tamiya lacquer thinner bath. Sometimes the best lessons are learnt the hard way. Story of my life 🤣 More often than not modelling is about problem solving and recovering from a ruined paint job
  22. Cool Hand
    Yeah try find pictures of models painted the colour you are looking for, as that will give you a better idea of how it looks. Most of the TS paint tones a pretty close to the cap/lid, it just might be a shade darker or lighter. Yeah unfortunately the hobby paints will have strong fumes. Water based acrylics will work for certain applications, But the Lacquer and alcohol based acrylics will give the best results. With your condition it would be best to always wear a mask/respirator when applying paint even when using the spray booth or using spray cans outdoors. If you do small batches at a time it will be less overwhelming. For smaller parts I airbrush surfacer/primer, that way there is more control over the amount of primer being applied. And then airbrush the paint colours. Generally use less paint with the airbrush, as it provides more control with the coverage. Some parts would only require a couple drops of paint and thinner, flush the airbrush and move onto the next colour. Its okay, we will try help where we can. It will take you a couple builds to become familiar with the materials and processes.
  23. Cool Hand
    Well got to make the most of the good weather today, so its clear coat time for these 3 builds.
  24. Cool Hand
    Looks like its going to be a great tribute. What decals did you use ??.
  25. Cool Hand
    Closest would probably be Tamiya TS-49 bright red. And TS-46 light sand would look good for the interior seats and inner door panels, and carpet XF-59 desert yellow.
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