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Everything posted by Cool Hand
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LJ's both got the colour coats applied. Have other wheels chosen for both builds, just using these for mock up. Fingers crossed the clear brings out more of the green the HQ.
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Thanks Bob, I got way to may idea's. Nearly time to settle down and build. Yes mate, Pro Street 1 is the inspiration for the red LC, you know where im going with some of my idea's. Finally getting around to making them a reality.
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Hope to get colour coats on these 2 LJ's and HQ over the next couple days. I have had this build planned for awhile, good to finally make some progress getting the metallic colour coat applied. And another idea and plan starting to come to life. Wheels and stance just for this mock up. Not my best black paint job, but im glad to have replaced the one I painted before I gave away. Unusual suspect.
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Got a few more things painted. 7 in one day not a bad effort. Applied a base coat of SMS jet black to 2 LJ's and a HQ. LC painted with Outlaw paints Teal and another LC painted with Tamiya TS-86 Pure red LJ and Camaro painted with TS-14 black
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Cheers Anton, I like the Japanese car culture as its different and interesting to see how they go about modifying cars. Hope to see a shark nose build from you one day. No worries mate, like I mentioned have a practice and become familiar with the SMS paint before attempting to paint the HQ and any questions just send me a message. Very versatile technique Bob, works very well when parts have sharp crisp raised detail.
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Very true Anton, thanks for your input and mentioning. My bad, I didnt think to bring up that up as I did not use TS Paints as an under base coat when doing over coat removal with alcohol.
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Who doesn't love a mock-up? Let's see yours!
Cool Hand replied to Belairconvertable's topic in WIP: Model Cars
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Here you go Nigel @Spottedlaurel First stage of body work done, have recoated in surfacer and need to fill in all the small imperfections and blend the nose extension with some Tamiya putty. Stock oob bod 1.6mm styrene for the 12mm nose extension. 3.2x4.8mm strip to fill in the bumper recesses. .5mm styrene to extend the centre ridged. 1mm styrene strip under the tail light panel recess and 4mm tube and 3.2mm rod to fill the cut away for the exhaust
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Hope this helps @Steve H Any part that has well defined raised detail is best for the the technique. Like these valve covers Like always prime or as I use 1500 black surfacer. Using any lacquer based paint apply the colour you want the raised detail to be. And clear coat to seal the colour coat. And allow to fully dry/cure. For the over coat of the main colour, you can use enamel or acrylic(water or alcohol based) The Holden valve cover I used Vallejo Mecha Primer black as it has a nice satin finish. And levels out to a very smooth finish. On the 308 valve cover, I over coated with Alclad gloss black base. I applied it a little too heavy, thankfully the detail didnt get buried. Allow to dry for a couple hours, touch dry is best as it makes removal in the next step easy. These cotton swabs are the best for precise removal of paint. For the removal of the Mecha primer I used Vallejo thinner, but alcohol will work for acrylics. Just moisten the cotton swab enough to lightly swipe away the paint of the raised detail. And to remove the Alclad Gloss Black, I moisten the cotton swab with Tamiya Enamel thinner.
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Yeah Stu, I have become a fan of the SMS paints. I would say they very user friendly and produce a good quality finish. They have a slightly hotter thinner based solvent, so you need to apply in thin light coats and gradually build up to full coverage. I fill the cup to just about full and add an extra 2ml of SMS thinner and 1ml of SMS leveller, this just helps with my spray technique. And I find that painting in temps between 20-25'c is best. I recommend do some testing to become familiar with the paint. If you have any drama's or questions just send me message Thanks for commenting Steve, yeah mega thread keeps it interesting when builds stall or get side lined when new idea's and inspiration comes along. Cheers Bob, very nice colour that should come to life a bit more with the clear coat.
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I agree with Anton, the red filter fits in with the valve covers and the sinister look of the build.
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Thanks as always for commenting Bob. Yeah turned out pretty good I reckon. Thankyou Brain, good fun trying some different colours for change. But I still like black the most. Thanks Steve. They are cool looking wheels, great for modern and old school big wheel cars. The reverse wash is nothing overly complicated, it's basically the same technique as the paint over BMF. But its enamel over lacquer, wheels were painted with lacquer Mr Hobby Super Chrome Silver 2 and clear coated. After that dried it was then overcoated with Alclad gloss black base(enamel). Once dry, used Tamiya small cotton swabs soaked in Tamiya enamel thinner and wipe the black off the raised detail. I will show in better detail a couple examples soon. Im in a mood where I just want to paint while its the great Aussie summer weather, it has been lots of fun trying out some different colours other than black 😄 Most of my builds do get completed eventually. Thats why I like having my own mega thread, I dont have to worry about being committed to one build and I can follow the muse to where ever it takes me at any given time. I have so many kits and idea's, its hard to stayed focused. But in time I will settle and get some builds done 😉 Hope you do get some DDA kits, be great to see your take on some of the Aussie cars.
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- 561 replies
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Thanks Micah, 3D printing has been an absolute game changer for the hobby, a very worthy investment.
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Another 4 prepared and first coat of surfacer. A LC Torana, 2 LJ Torana's and a HQ. Mock up of the HQ.
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Good to see you got the build under way Stu. The 1:1 looked tidy, and typical styling from that era. Being a HQ fan, you know il be along for the ride and also look forward to progress updates. Yes mate DDA run plastic through the diecast mould. All the basic detail is there and with a bit effort and detailing, the models will look the part. The way the kits are designed with sub-assemblies makes them easy to paint, detail and fun to build I dont get too caught up with the scale accuracy of the kits, as im like you and just happy to have kits of Australian cars to build. Im always looking forward to DDA releasing more plastic kits.
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Hectic day in the spray booth, got the final coats of surfacer on 5 builds. Which im so glad is done, now I get enjoy the process of apply the paint after many hours of prep work. Also 3D printed and painted some more appropriate scale wheels for the red HQ. I will redo the tyres as I made the mistake of putting the lower profile on the rear instead of the front.
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Thanks Brian, the guy who designed the wheels done an excellent job. The raised detail made it easy to paint using the reverse wash technique Yeah Bob, need try out the idea's when you get them sometimes. Got a nice colour picked out for it too, hoping I can get the paint applied next week.
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Starting to plan out another Holden HQ build. I 3D printed the rims and used Aoshima tyres. Sourced the 3D printed scoop from a seller on ebay.
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