oldcarfan

Thanks, I was wondering decal paper would work.

I think the truck is based on a Grumman truck, I sure hope it won't be too hard to convert it to a stock van

It could make an interesting Cannonball entry!

I have three of the last stock issue from 2017(?) but this one will find me buying more! I love anything BRE related. I wonder if they corrected the stance or if it's a straight reissue of the California Sunshine version? Either way, I'll line up to buy.

Are those the 1/24th kits? I can vouch for them. I have several of the Initial D kits waiting to be built. My kids were deeply into Anime just before COVID and we took to a convention in Dallas, Texas. I found a vendor who had a couple cases of the kits and my wife let me off the leash to get a bunch.

I wonder if Revell still has the molds for this and the Mustangs? I built them all at one time or another and remember them being fun.

You're making a great start. These little kits really do make a great blank canvas. There's so much you can do with them.

I bought a can from HobbyTown a couple weeks ago. I think it was around $12.

I hope thread's not dead! I can't really put up a picture of my workbench since it's buried in kits and parts, but I do have a small area in the center that I can work from. One of my LED lights just went out and I need to get another. Has anyone tried using LED ribbon light in place of conventional lights? Does it work well? I still have some left over from what we used as under cabinet lighting. It's pretty bright and I'm wondering if it would be easier than a new fixture.

Thanks! The SMC Cartage door ended up being harder to imagine than it was to build. It's mostly Evergreen and Plastruct. The door part is Evergreen 2050 V-Groove which looks a lot like the rollup door on my old shop. The frame and the top is various plastic strip and halfround. It's finished out with gray primer that has some random decals and various colors of Vallejo washes. The second door is an interior version, using the same plan and materials. The main difference is in detailing. The interior door has a chain pull and different control box. The back side looks a bit rough, but it doesn't show anyway so that's okay. The wood stabilizes the door and keeps it from warping and at the top is a magnet so it sticks to the backdrop.

That's too cool! Now if they could be persuaded to do a hybrid version I'd get one. Here in rural central Texas charging stations are not too common.

I finished off the electric box and did HVAC ducting. Was going to do a longer run for the AC but I only had a small amount of square tubing. I think it should be okay photos. Both these pieces have small neo-dymium magnets holding them in place. They are easy to counter sink into the back of most things. These are the magnets, I used two per piece. I could've probably use one magnet per piece just as well. I also have some larger disc shaped ones I got from HL. The peel and stick magnet on a roll stuff works as well, but these have a better hold. You can get a much better price at Amazon and other vendors if there's not an HL near you.

Does diecast count? I had an expiring 40% coupon from CVS so I stopped by to check out the diecasts. They had the usual old stuff, except for this one. Not a big fan of EVs but I like the look of this thing. Maybe I'll come up with something to do with it. Wonder how it would work lowered and as a panel van?

Not sure why, but there were Harleys all over town this morning.

I tore out the walls and redid them. Probably been watching too many old house reno shows on HGTV. I liked the idea of using magnets to allow changing the scene but it didn't work as well as I hoped with the magnets in the walls. Also the 1/4 inch foam board warps a little with changes in temperature and humidity so they needed bracing. I added thin steel sheet to the walls and removed the magnets. Now I can embed magnets into the scenery pieces to allow positioning them anywhere on the diorama. Then I covered it with new brick paper. I'm thinking of using LED ribbon lights along the edges for lighting, has anyone tried that? With magnets on the back of the detail parts they can be moved or changed out as needed. Here's the roll up door with the magnets on it's back and a set of wooden doors I printed from a photo. Last but not least I started working on electric service to add some eye interest. I just put two tiny pellet magnets in the back and it'll fit flush to the wall. Not finished but it's coming along.

Between 1973 and 1975 Porsche offered an option for the 911 called safety stripes. They were magnetic and non-reflective to supposedly eliminate reflections from the hood. I think they look cool and I've been wanting a 1/24th version for a long time. I saved this line art with the idea of printing them as a decal someday. My wife has a Cricut and today she was working on a project in her office and it gave me an idea. I asked her to do a test for me with some scrap vinyl. She put the line art in her iPad, sized it and printed it out. This is the first attempt and it'll need a little adjustment, but I like it. Here's that first try shown on an old Monogram 1/24th curbside. This is regular Cricut vinyl which looks a little thick for scale to my eye so I'll be looking for something thinner, maybe some 3M vinyl or some decal paper? I may use the artwork as a stencil to spray the stripes. I may also get my wife to cut some other stencils too, she's pretty patient. The Cricut vinyl would probably work well for R/C cars, too. You could probably reverse your artwork and put them inside a clear R/C body before painting. If you put them on the outside and they got scratched up you could print replacements and move on. As far as the Cricut, it doesn't seem to do well with details and letters smaller than about 1/4 inch, but it did a good job on this size. Cricut says there's a fine point blade that should do more detailed work and I'll get one and give it a try. The machine can also cut thin plastic, but that's a little advanced for me right now. I can see how that feature might be handy for modeling projects. .

Thanks to both of you! I seem to always forget about ScaleMates. Back in my Navy days, a guy I knew in Naples, Italy drove a 190E. I wanted one of those cars so bad.

Thanks they were a happy accident. I wanted to order some Braid rally wheels, but I came across the Pegasus wheels which looked pretty close.

I said I wasn't going to buy any kits this week. Then I stopped at Wild Bill's HobbyTown in Arlington Texas. They had four kits I really wanted, but my wife was with me so I only got this one. Maybe not a holy grail, but definitely a "Please please can I get it?" kit. The roof was a little crushed but not broken. I think the one piece glass will straighten it out. For $25 it was definitely worth it. Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if this is the Italeri kit reboxed?

I'm kind of the same way except when it comes to obscure Japanese or European kits. I just can't pass them up it they are a good price!

I can vouch for that. I bought Washi tape from Michael's and it works well, but it definitely needs a new edge. I usually put a strip on my glass cutting plate and cut a new edge first.

Sounds interesting. Is this from their Low Odor line? Is it an acrylic lacquer?

STS is my recommendation too. If it doesn't nave to be decals, you might ask around and see if anyone you know has a Cricut. They are pretty easy to use and could easily cut your artwork out of vinyl.

I had to make the hour drive to check on family in another town today. Rural highways in central Texas aren't that exciting except for the occasional speeding truck. Anyway, for some reason I remembered a picture of a Ford Courier UHaul I saved on the computer a few years ago. To keep boredom away, I planned a build in my head. I managed to think through what needed to be done and had a plan. When I got home, I scaled it to fit the Datsun truck I built a few months ago, but it should work for any 1/25th mini pickup. It's made from a plastic For Sale sign and some Evergreen #250 Quarter Round. I even managed to keep it square from every angle. You can't see it under the red putty, but the basic box is done. It really didn't need that much putty, but I was in a hurry and slopped it on. If I can stay on task, it could turn into something cool. Now I need to dig out a parts kits, I think there's enough of a Courier in there to do one like this.

I wonder if the bed off a 1/24 Monogram 1980 F100 and the fenders off an AMT 53 Ford would work for a conversion? The 1980 has the flattop bed, but it might be too wide.