Rockford

The miserable, wet weather is starting to pass now here in Liverpool so thoughts have turned to painting the Peterbilt. First I thought I'd do the interior and get my Cummins painted. I know it should really be white but I only ever worked on Cummins that were buff coloured so they look right to me that colour. Let's just pretend that the original white engine was having an in-frame after a million miles and they found a crack in one of the top lands for the wet liner on cylinder three so a replacement engine was sourced. Anyway, it looks ok to me, it'll only be seen through the gaps under the cab so does the job. Painted the interior, used BMF on the clusters then washed in dark brown to mimic the faux wood veneer. Didn't want to do too much because you can't see much once it's in place, but again, good enough.

That's really impressive, you must be so pleased with the result. Thanks for the information too, your modelling has taken on a new dimension, nothing is impossible!

It looks amazing, looks like the future for modelling too! Out of interest, would you be able to put a cost to the engine once printed, disregarding the printer cost. Is there a cost for the software? Could a person draw something up on the software and send the file to someone for printing, or would that be impractical? I'm sorry about all the questions, they just kept coming as I was typing! Feel free to say "Dunno".

Rubbed the putty down on the rear axles, quite pleased with it. Added some rudimentary brake chambers. Used some spring steel wire and hollow tube to knock up a pogo stick, drilled the deck plate and looks ok to me. Also removed the hard plastic quarter fender flaps and made new ones out of electrical tape.

Just to prove to myself that these haven't stalled I thought I'd post what little I've been able to get done in the last few weeks. Made a trailer brake valve and lever from some sprue and a straight pin out of the wife's sewing box. Also an indicator stalk. Also did the usual filling-in job on the rear leaf springs and the one diff that's visible. Obviously I haven't rubbed it down yet.

Reworked the daycab interior this afternoon. Cut the floor away and the dash. Built a new firewall and flat floor. Cut the shift lever up and added the gaiter and the knob to a new one made from 0.9mm copper wire. As this interior will be more visible than the double sleeper I added clutch, brake and throttle pedals too.

One of the biggest failings of these kits is the wheels and tyres. The aftermarket is out for me due to cost and the AMT tyres are just too small and the wheels no better. Whatever I do it's a compromise. One thing I decided that I could do is alter the appearance of the duals. Usually when you look down on them you see the skinny, toylike boss at the centre when really you should be seeing a wheel dish. I cut 6mm lengths of 20mm conduit and glued them to each outer wheel then quickly coloured them black. Not perfect but better. The interiors are dire too but you really can't see them in the likes of a Pete 352 so I haven't really bothered so far. These Bisons have big windows so I thought I'd do a little enhancing on the tub. I cut a few mm off the base so that I can add a proper, flat cab floor. But then I started thinking what else I could do. I hate the way the dash goes all the way to the floor and that stupid boss that the shift lever sits on. So I cut the "firewall" across at the bottom edge of the dash leaving the mount for the steering wheel. Then I cut the seat bases off too so the seats float on the door panels. Cut the back out too to make a walkway through to the sleeper. Then added a new firewall under the dash so it looks like the dash is floating too. Looks a lot better, and will look a lot more realistic when I add a full, flat floor. I'm pleased with the result. I didn't get that far with the daycab, just cut the base off and made a floor panel so I'll have to revisit that. Used various diameters of plastic tube to make stacks for the daycab. Made brackets out of copper wire and drilled the cab. The stacks are not fixed into the mufflers yet so I can adjust them.

The kit fuel tanks are pretty poor and were all the wrong sizes for these trucks anyway. The passenger side front needed to be shorter and on the double sleeper I wanted them to run the entire length of the sleeper. I took some 20mm electrical conduit and cut my sizes, then cut six slots in the rear. I then cut plastic card profiles which slotted into the cuts and the exposed part resembles a tank bracket. This way I get some adjustability and strength in the mounting. I also fabbed some tank straps that just slide over the tank and are held in place by the brackets. I also added cab steps to the front tanks. Spent a while making a visor out of aluminium sheet. About 4 had to go in the bin because it's just such a complex shape with two curves in opposite axes. I ended up roughing it up and then filing and trimming as I offered it up to the cab. Still needs trimming at the front edge I think, but getting there.

I love the Drom idea! It would be great to see one done. Used to be quite popular with the big van lines.

That looks really life-like! I've never seen that AWD system before. Does the rear axle act as a transfer box? I'm assuming that the drive goes from the transmission to the rear diff then back out of the front of the diff into the front axle, the two driveshafts running alongside each other?

That interior looks bob-on! I love the white steering wheel. If I wrote the rules all trucks would have white steering wheels!!

Moved the front fenders forward about 16th of an inch, which centers the wheel in the well much better. Fabbed some inner fenders as on the real thing. Surprising how these little things make a difference. Had to try and do something with the awful Luberfiner or just delete it altogether. The mounting is just pathetic and the unit is poorly executed overall. I added some securing straps and shaped backing pieces that imitate the four mounting points to the cab. Looks ok. Added the two small airtanks in front of the battery box and mudflaps to the front axle.

Russell, good research there mate! I suppose you have to work out when to stop. I was confined to barracks today so I did a bit on the double sleeper. Did my usual mods to the quarter fenders, mudflaps, chassis flanges and fifth wheel. Added the trim strip to the front fender lips, relocated the battery box and made another driveshaft with a centre bearing. Did a quick mock-up with the fuel tanks propped up in place, and I'm pleased with the stance and proportions because I only stretched the chassis by about 15mm. It actually reminds me of Sonny Pruitt's W900 in Movin' on, which is one of my all time favourites.

Here's the extended chassis for the double sleeper version. Straight enough to pass inspection. I am going to have to move the fenders forward and the battery box back because it just doesn't look right to me, although I know they used to build them like that with the extra step assembly behind. The green rubber band isn't permanent.

Not a lot of work this week. Stretched the chassis for the double sleeper by grafting the back end of a T600 KW onto the front of the Chevy chassis. Here you can see it clamped down to try and get it straight. Never works. Wanted the chrome strip across the bottom lip of the fender. Stuck electrician's tape to the bottom lip. Then laid 0.5mm square strip across the top. Ran liquid cement into the top section, then when it had set pulled the two ends down and did the same again. The tape holds the shape while it sets. Once it's set remove the tape and trim the strip. Just needs a rub down to take the sharp edges off. You can also see the airtanks I made and mounted in front of the battery box.

Lol! It's infectious!

You're right, the grille pieces are a little heavy. I suppose you could thin them down a bit but I'd worry about destroying the grille and the headlights. I suppose there's always a compromise. At the time the Revell was the only kit available over here in GB. I know there are other versions knocking around now but I still think the Revell is a pretty good representation overall. Captures the contours well if some of the moulding could do with a bit of improvement. I've got those photos of the real thing on my phone and every time I look at them I'm still taken aback by how gorgeous that shape was. I include the Gen2 Camaro in that too. My mate had a '79 Camaro and it looked like it had landed from outer space, it was so different to the jelly mold garbage of today. Sorry, I digress.

That would be a nice project, it was a lovely truck. GM certainly picked well when they offered to supply vehicles for that show.

Had a nice time this afternoon cutting and shaping little bits of plastic, then dropping them and crawling around on the floor searching! Decided a chassis this long wouldn't have a one piece driveshaft as supplied in the kit as it would start "whipping" and shake itself to pieces. So, using various diameter plastic and aluminium tube I made a two piece affair with a centre bearing on the cross member. Carved my yokes out of tube quite easily. Looks ok. Did my first rubbing down on the filler. Pleased with the results. Put another skim on the sides because of some pitting. The recess edges are softer now, more like the real pressed panel. Also moved the battery box/step combo back to the middle of the door. I'll make some air tanks to go in front of it. Once the unit was fairly solid in its new position I thought I'd run some liquid cement into the joints for extra strength. As I moved the brush towards the piece a big drop fell onto the front of the battery box. I was blazing! One step forward...

Oooh it's a long time now but I think they were off a Revell '70 Chevelle. They're not quite right but with a bit of work you can get them near enough. Pontiac's trim ring was bigger and more bulbous than Chevy and I've never seen a set in kit form, though I'm sure one of the more knowledgeable members will know for sure. Thanks for the comments. I love Jim's Firebird. I lose track of the plot because I'm too busy watching the car! It's probably the most beautiful car I've ever seen.

Russ, I feel your pain. I've pondered the wheel and tire situation many times but I can't bring myself to use the AMT pieces, they're just too small for me. The amount of things I'd have to alter to make them look right would be too much, arches, tandem spacing etc... It's such a shame because they're very well done, but their wheels are worse than the Monogram ones. I've also considered what I can do to improve the Monogram units, and I'm at a loss. The aftermarket is just too expensive for me, though there are some 3D printed wheels on the internet. I'm resigned to using the kit pieces and thinking that they won't attract too much attention because they're matt black. In fact I've decided to use the Monogram wheels and tires on the AMT W900 Aerodyne I've got because they look better overall. I'd like to see your GMC back together. You inspired me, maybe I can inspire you!

I didn't realize how fat the kit bumper is, miles away from the real thing. I removed three millimetres from the bumper and the mountings. Sits a lot better now. I'm thinking of moving the front fenders forward slightly. Slathered the rear wall in stopper. As I rub it down with wet and dry it will assume the softer lines of the original pressing.

Cutting the sleeper off the one can left a huge hole in the rear wall of course. Looking at photos of real Bison cabs the rear wall is dimpled to add rigidity with it being a monocoque cab. To get dimensions for the new rear wall I downloaded a photo from the web and put the kit cab against the screen of my tablet. I adjust the size of the photo until the image matches the size of the kit cab. Then I can mark the size of the window as well as the pressings in the rear wall. I drew the shape on a piece of card then cut the outer edge out. I cut 2mm strips of card and laid these in the recess created to form the five depressions the rear wall has. Shaped the hole in the rear wall to match the card and popped it in. Lot of cleaning up to do but it's getting there.

I don't know why the quote box is still there. I can't delete it