Mike Kucaba

Well I'll be,I just looked at a couple Japanese hobby sites and they are out of stock with the primers . Could be the earthquake/sunami disaster affecting the homeland.

I just don't have words to convey how bad I feel for your predicament. Please contact me here when you are able to resume building.

WOW I don't want to sound cold but did you drop this body? Most everything you showed is repairable,but that windshield post is bad news.Even repaired it will always be a weak point and may not even hold up to an aggressive polishing. I'd cross my fingers & toes that MFH gets back to you about a replacement body.

I think you have too much time on your hands.You should come over and finish some of my models and help an old guy out! JUST KIDDIN' looks very nice.

Your build inspired me to dig out the two pearl colors that I had and do a test shoot on some spoons. Now I'll have to get a Futura kit and go at it!! Nice color green. I'm not sure about the high rider look.

Very nicely done.

Look at the demeanor of your message as opposed to mine. How would I know about a disability? If I can I always try to help people on this board and in my everyday life. That being said,I will not suffer a fool.I can lead a horse to water,but I can't turn it into a duck. Have a nice day

Replying and/or creating posts with little or no regards for correcting spelling,punctuation, all caps.no caps etc in my opinion is a sign of disrespecting the members of this forum. No one says you have to do it,but you do it out of respect for others on this forum. Personally, I'm reluctant to really care about sharing any knowledge I may have with a person who doesn't care about this etiquette.

Then try spraying the Future on in very light coats over several hours and let it dry for a few days.

Liquitex,and a few others make a retarder for acrylics,I think it's called Slo-Dri. And there is also something called Flo-out or something like that. Look for it at Hobby Lobby,Michaels,and artsy type stores. I have never tried to bring an acrylic back from the dead. Hope it works. If not try Floquil Reefer White(insert comments here) in their railroad colors line. I've been using it on painted on WW and it takes about a week to dry,but then it's okay.It's very opaque,so it covers black well in usually one stroke. I found the numbers and descriptions for the additives:Liquitex Slo-Dri retarder #6711 Liquitex Flow-Aid flow enhancer#5620

When you say jars,do you mean the acrylic or the synthetic lacquer? I've never seen the Lacquer in jars or bottles,only the spray.

Best Place? Right now and probably for the last year I'd say JAPAN :D

I don't really feel that the gray primer is all that, but the fine white...now I can get by with other gray primers,but the fine white just lays down so nice and has kind of a sheen and it sure does make light colors and metallics POP! I've never liked Dupi-color primer /filler type,But the primer sealer is okay as a last coat before colors. My goto primer is Plast-kote 466 primer and spot filler as I recently got several cans at $3.00 ea locally. PLEASE TAMIYA PUT YOUR SYNTHETIC LACQUER IN BOTTLES FOR US WITH AIRBRUSHES!!!

I would stick with one brand/type of paint.I.E enamels would be Scale Finishes, Lacquer would be MCW. As for humidity,there are thinners and reducers that have properties that alleviate to some degree those types of problems. You buy them at body shop supply stores,and yes,they are somewhat costly. Please practice a real lot on plastic spoons or something instead of car bodies(even junkers) before you shoot that masterpiece.

Thumbs up on that one Zed!! Nice work.

That looks great Dom. Nice job.

You only need to spray along the tape edge... but pretty tough with a spray can. The clear shouldn't have any affect on the white.

Nice build Raoul.Like I said before all your builds that I've seen look great.

Thank you . Biggest problem I see is trying to get this x code tool to appear need x11. I'll be spending some time on this tomorrow as my eyes are starting to go a little wonky now.

Ah, There is quite a bite of documentation and tutorials if you bother to look. You have to be industrious and look for it. Man, what I put up with. Been all over the net for the better part of the day. I found a few forums and it made me feel better that there were at least six messages all starting with Having problems with GIMP opening. I think I'm done with free downloads.Garage Sale is supposed to be the best program for Apple users for online auctions,and when I tried the trial version,it loaded with half in English and the other half in German!! I asked support if the trial was an express version and not full featured.The response was it was a full featured trial and would I like to buy it.Not if the trial was that bad. Now I just have to figure out how to dump all this stuff in my computer.

So you expect free software to also come with "customer" support??? Not anymore.

Anyone on here use GIMP for photo manipulation? I saw some neat ways to use it on another forum and found it was a free download. Wow! What a pain. I downloaded it twice and followed the instructions,but it just didn't take.Now my Apple is working funny and I can't seem to undo it. The support is virtually non-existent. I know it was free,but you would think there would be some help. Anyway what I Iiked about it was the ability to overlay photos . Does anyone know of a program,free or reasonably priced that has that feature. Yeah and that was somewhat of a rant. Sorry

Very nice save!

I'm Impressed!

I have found over the years that the type of lacquer thinner has a huge affect on how the paint lays down,and how fast you can apply it between coats. Try going to a local auto paint supply store and get a quart of some fast,moderate, and slow evaporate lacquer thinners and test these. Also get some spoons for testing,stop testing on car bodies.