Kit Basher

I haven't done it, tho I very much want to. Here is my understanding of the process (someone with more experience please correct me where necessary): 1. BMF the emblem, do not trim it, rather leave like a 1/2" area around it. 2. Make a dam out of modeling clay around the emblem area. 3. Pour epoxy inside the dam and cover the emblem with some extra thickness. 4. After the epoxy has cured, remove it with the BMF from the car. This is the mold. 6. Pour epoxy in the mold and allow to cure. 7. Sand the back of the emblem until you just sand thru the BMF that is not in the cavity of the mold. 8.Take the finished emblem out of the mold, already covered with the remaining BMF. I hope someone who has actually done this will chime in. don't worry about hurting my feelings if i am totally wrong.

I almost hate to see one of these finished, because it's so much fun watching you build one. On the other hand, they are sooooo cool when they're done! Great work, Ira.

Thanks Chris. That should get me where I want to go. I think I'll go ahead and finish this thing up. It may not be completely right, but thanks to you guys it will be a whole lot better than if I just winged it. Thanks again to all.

I have to agree. I recently finished the '53 Ford Vic, and I'm working on the Off Road F150 4x4. Both are nicely detailed kits that go together precisely. I've been wearing Ollies out, but I may still pick up a couple of those Crown Vics.

Thanks, Andrew. I'm guessing that two wires are represented on that crossover thing. I will try to paint those black and call it good. Still no clue about heater hoses tho....

Thanks Patrick, anything you can do that is not too much trouble would be great. I'm particularly wondering where the heater hoses attach. Here is what I have so far, if anyone sees any glaring errors, please let me know. It's hard to see the black wires against the black valve covers, but they go from the square boxes in front of each valve cover and enter the heads between the intake risers. Thanks to all.

That is beautiful, Niko!

Thanks, Andrew. I've got four plug wires into each of those coil packs in front of the heads. I suspected what you said about the boots not showing, so I'm just going to run the wires right into the heads. I was wondering how the heck you changed plugs on this thing, I can see why that back plug would be a nightmare. Seems like you'd have to crawl in there upside down and use a rubber wrench!

Thanks Chris. I've changed the title of this thread to reflect your information. Thanks also for the F150 site. I'm still looking for more stuff but this will definitely get me going.

Thanks Chris, that's a lot of help already! As near as i can tell the plug wires run from a box in front of each valve cover to spaces between the intake risers. Is this correct, and are there plug boots, or just wires going into the heads? Thanks again.

Anybody have any detail pics for the engine in the Lindberg F150 Off Road 4x4 kit? I think the model represents a 2000- something truck, and I think the engine is the 4.6 liter. Not sure about either of those. I'm building that kit and would like to do basic wiring and plumbing, and paint it the right color, but I'm having a hard time finding close up pics. Thanks in advance.

He sleeps all night and he works all day.

That is one big cow! This thing is really cool, nice job, Chuck

I AM THE STIG! Well, not really.

Now that is Pretty! I like everything about it. Nice job!

Here is an excellent example of a body painted with Alclad. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=62015&hl=%2Baluminum+%2Bwillys

I think the best bet is to talk to your doctor and then try everything until you find something that works. I ended up using Welbutrin, it reduces the desire to yell at everyone you see. I also used patches, and nicotine lozenges. The hardest part is mental, the desire to smoke for smoking's sake, not for the nicotine. Those e-cigs might be really good for that. I am currently gnawing on toothpicks at a rate that has deforested several acres. The most important thing is to keep trying, most folks don't make it the first time. As Mark Twain said, quitting is easy, I've done it hundreds of times.

Shouldn't be too hard to find. It popped right up with a search on Amazon. Bound to be lots of other places too.

That's gonna be really useful. Thanks!

Here's a link to a thread where I asked the same question: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53726&hl=%2Bbird%26%2339%3Bs+%2Bmouth You'll see that I didn't even know the right name for the joint. You'll also see that the idea for the block I showed in the previous post did not originate with me. There are also some good alternate suggestions for making a fishmouth in that thread. Hope that helps.

I made this gizmo for making fish mouths a while back: You stick the rod thru the hole and the run a round file in the groove to make the fishmouth. I cut the block at 90 degrees on one side (above) and 45 degrees on the other, shown here: Here's the 45 degree joint: A possible refinement I have not tried would be to drill a hole thru the block for the file to run in, rather than trying to keep it in the groove. I'll have to admit, tho, that it's just about as easy to hold the rod between your thumb and forefinger and let them guide the file.

I think the most useful accessory is a foot speed control. It slows it down to almost nothing, or all the way up to full speed, and you don't have to fumble around trying to turn it on.

Great job!

Real nice, realgone.

TMI! (Too Much Information)