Rob McKee

That is a great idea using clear coat first. Thanks Jeff

I follow a simple process when painting model cars: Wash all part in warm water and dish detergent. Let air dry. Prepare the body pieces that will be painted (sanding, body work, etc.) The final body sand is done under the tap to ensure all dust is removed. Air dry again. Apply primer in 2 light coats (I use Tamiya) 2 - 3 lightly misted color coats allowing 10 - 15 minutes in between coats. (I use tamiya or testors laquer paints) My final color coat is a wet coat. (Take your time to build up a nice liquid shine) Clear coat is applied 30 - 60 minutes after the wet coat. I may have missed something here. I am no expert at painting and I have failed many times before I started doing the above. The other tip I would offer is to put the car with its wet paint under a warm light. I have a little halogen desk lamp I use for this purpose. Just don't put it to close to avoid melting or warping the body. I own 4 or 5 airbrushes. I mainly use them for aircraft modelling or spraying alclad. I would like to pickup Donn's dvd as well. One can always learn more when it come to the art of painting. Rob

She's coming along nicely there Wayne. Keep posting the pictures.

Welcome back to the hobby James. If you do a search in the forum for the 61 impala you will find lots of builds in progress and under glass. Take care of that hip.

Awesome work on the engine bay!

i have that dragster as well. The spider looking item is the distributer with the wires attached.

In my opinion it does look more realistic compared to the chrome in the kit. Some of the re-issue kits that are out these days are great subject but they have to much chrome. Chrome engines etc. don't work for me. On a funny car I recently build I stripped the entire chrome part tree and painted with the correct metal effect. You are right, spraying the alclead over gloss black gives the chrome a real metal look. The only thing I would add to this is to ensure you apply very light coats of the alclad to get the best finish.

Yes, you are so right this is just a real pain. Often what I will do is strip the chrome off the bumper and re-chrome it using alclad paint.

Thanks again Doc for putting this 3 day build on. I had a lot if fun and once again I finished a model. I now have 3 for this year.

I really was just pulling your leg with the 3 day build idea. It would be impossible to build the bus in 3 days. I grabbed mine as soon as they hit the shelves at the LHS. They were sold out very quickly and I haven't noticed them back yet. You will be amazed when you open the box and look at the amount of plastic in there.

Looks great. I must be huge.

I use Pegasus wheel for many of my builds. http://www.modelexpress.net/ carries them.

Hi there Doc, I have one of these kits and I must say the kit is huge. I have been looking at it now for a month wondering if I have what it takes to build this beast. Maybe we could have a three day build for the London Bus? I would jump in on this one when it gets started. I'll need to clear off as much of my workbench as I can as it will take every square inch of it. Rob

OK guys, for the most part this is a wrap. Was a lot of fun to be involved with this build again. Everyone has some great finish models. Rob

Doc, that is one sweet looking Cobra!

Thanks Paul, But I think your S&M car pops right of the page as well. As usual it is super shiney and a really clean build. I gotta get better at the BMF trim. I am going to pull out the 69 Charger I started last summer and BMF the window trim. I'd like to get that one wrapped up soon.

Thanks Jonathan, I really appreciate you doing that. I am going to build a bunch of these mustangs so it will come in handy knowing how to lower them down.

I wonder if it is the primer acting with the paint.

The 66 is a relatively new tooled kit. In the last 10 years or so anyway. The 69 has been around forever and it shows it.

Thanks guys for the compliments! There are some beautiful builds going on here. I'd also like to see how to lower these puppys. It's funny, they are to high in the 1:1 world as well. Most people have them lowered right at the dealer before they even drive them off the lot.

Well life can be full of surprises. Actually, in a strange way this has worked out for the better. The paint has come out much better the second time around. It is deeper red now which I really like. Still just trying to clean up the details on the engine and interior before the body is mounted. Believe it or not, there are a ton of detail decals, small little decals for the interior, engine, and body. That will take some time. All in all this is a fun build of a great car. Doc, the shelby looks awesome!

Alclad is awesome stuff, but it is expensive. Also is the requirement to paint a layer of gloss black to get the metal sheen and then several light mist coats of the Alclad. I love the stuff, but the Krylon Metallic paint comes out nearly as good and it is just point and spray.

A quick way of getting them on screen is to take photos of the stacked boxes. If you post them in this site I am sure you won't have much of a problem selling them.

I had a minor set back today. While painting the black around the door and window scheme I had so leakage under the masking tape. After an executive meeting with myself, I dicided to give the car a quick sand with 1200 grit and re-spray it. After 2 additional coats of color and 2 more coats of clear it is shiney once again. I went and got myself a sharpie paint pen for the trim so keeping my fingers crossed I should be OK. I'll let the body dry overnight and slap everything together in the morning. I must say this is a very nicely engineered kit. Everything fits together very well and the detail isn't bad. I will have to try another Revell Ferrari one of these days. I may post some pictures a little later tonight, if not in the morning I'll get some up.

x3