Rob McKee

I have considered doing the same with some of the boxes I have. Cutting them out and hanging them out, maybe framing them and hanging them on the wall takes up far less space than keeping them. I used to keep all of my old model boxes but now I chuck (recycle) them. I just don't have the room for them anymore.

I guess it is for RC planes but I picked it up for use on my model aircraft canopies. They are a pain to attach without causing damage to the glass or the paint. I have used normal white glue and it does work well but over time the canopies would break off when handled. I started using it on my model cars for the very same reason. This glue remains flexible like rubber and can take the vibrations a model can endure while shipping or transporting to contests. Here is a link; http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-glues/formula-560-canopy-glue

I give the gy credit for working on it for 10 years. I would loose interest and move onto something else. Hence the 10 - 15 models in various stages sitting on my bench now. Truely incredible though.

I haven't really owned any cars that have been kitted. So, I build all the cars I wish I owned or had now.

I picked up a bottle of canopy glue from the LHS. It looks like everyday white glue but it does have some different properties. It bonds to plastic very well. I have actually used this stuff to attach body parts to painted surfaces. It won't damage the paint and sticks very well. It is also water proof. I use a toothpick to apply it to the windshield frame and then drop the windshield in place. Works like a charm.

Really nice job on the paint and interior work. I built a black 78 T/A a couple of weeks ago and now I am waiting for a 79 and 80 model T/A to come in the mail. Keep up the good work.

That looks great Jonathan.

If it works then don't fix it. Paint is a wierd thing. You can shoot paint and get the same results 50 times then the 51rst time it doesn't work. I guess we all stick to what worked for us.

hmmm, looks like I am wasting my time trying to polish out the color coat. I'll give it a go next time to drop the clear right on after color. I think it is still best to let the paint cure before clear though, But then again, I was wrong before.

I usually let it dry for at least a day and then polish the paint out before i apply the clear coat. This is great paint. I have only had good experiences with this stuff.

Thanks Doc. I don't know why I had such a tuff time with the 3 day build. That seems like a lot of time now. lol

Well the knives and the brushes are all down now. I started this model at 12:19 yesterday afternoon and just stopped. There are a few more decals to apply and plumbing and wiring on the engine. Just ran out of time for the finer details. Challanges I had were waiting for the paint to dry. I used Tamiya Laquer and Acylics as well as Krylon. All are fairly fast drying but I still would prefer to allow paint to dry for a couple of days before working with it. I bought this kit for 9.99 on a clearance table at the hobby shop. It was opened, the box was in rough shape, but the decals were old and had a little water damage. It took a long time and decal set to get the larger decals done. All in all I had a blast. With a little more work I'll have my second build completed by the end of the day. I spent almost 10 hours yesterday and 4 1/2 hours today. Man, how in the world did we ever pound out kits in a few hours as kids?

It is now 7:42 PST and I am back at her. More decals and details in on the engine and chassis.

OK, enough for today.

9 hours into the build and I feel good about the progress. Decalling is going to be a big job but it will really bring the body to life.

Terry your car looks incredible. Keep going. I am just finishing dinner and then will be heading back to the bench.

Moving right along: Body is masked and painted red. Slicks have been decaled and flat coated. Now I am going to let the paint setup for an hour or so then back at it.

Progress report: 1. Tires are assemble and sanded. Clear coat is now drying so I can decal the lettering. 2. Chrome is stripped from several pieces and sprayed with chrome paint. 3. Rear differential is assembled and painted. 4 Slow progress on the engine. Sorry for the bad pics

Just an hour into the build I have sanded an primered the body with Tamiya white primer. I have now completed to coats of white paint to the body. Now is time to let it dry and work on the rest. I have also painted the chassis graphite using krylon quick drying paint. Some of the chrome parts are now sitting in a bath of bleach to remove the chrom. I will paint those a chrome silver once they dry. The engine halves are together and painted aluminum. Phew, this is like a horse race here.

Maybe I screwed up but it now 12 noon here on the Pacific Coast.4 So I am off to the races!

Hey guys, Tomorrow the 24 hour build starts. Is there a thread for the build? Rob

In Canada we call them Wobbly Pop. aka: Beer Usually the practice of drinking wobbly pop includes drinking more than one.

Nice start to the 49 Merc. Looking forward to seeing this one progress. I like the choice of color, very origional and different.

I have a look at them before I start building a kit. Really, how many times would one follow instructions to slap an engine together? lol Mostly reference when I get a little lost.

Love that poster. It is sooo true. How did we make it through the 70s?