av405

Compared to UK cars, you're right. But in reality, only a small segment of American cars have been kitted. By the looks of things, the majority of American kits are from the 1960s-1970s .

Thanks for the answers fellas.

I agree with this train of thought. But like I mentioned in my post, I'm always looking to improve and don't mind trying new methods. Thank you for your response.

I tried searching for this on the forum but couldn't find a good thread on it: My process involves Tamiya or Mr Hobby primer, tamiya spray cans, tamiya TS-13 clear, wet sanding 3200-12000 in one direction, then scratch remover and polish. I've done a few models like this already and have been happy with the finish, but I'm always looking to improve. My question is, should I alternate the direction I wet sand in with each grit? For example, 3200 left to right, 4000 up and down, 6000 left to right, etc. I seem to remember reading that somewhere. Thank you in advance.

Here's a low quality screenshot of Hpiguy's latest video showing the decal sheet illustration on the kit box.

If I have to paint outside, I'll paint near a fence line where there is no grass or in my garage, just inside the door.

Great, Thanks Dusty

True. I was thinking of my specific example, but his shouldn't even need a recoat. I just wasn't sure if he was going to lay down clear and/or polish.

I just primed a resin body with Mr. Hobby 1000 after going through prep work mentioned above and didn't have any issues. Stick to it but test it on a small part after its been cleaned to make sure the primer is compatible with your particular kit. Not all resin is created equal.

Wet sand very lightly with 2000 or 3000 grit, then respray the area with a single coat or 2 light coats. It's a very easy fix, just use a light touch.

Thanks for the 1st hand account. So you did the base white and then added primer? Or what were your steps? Thank you. So do you recommend spraying primer first, then this, then primer? Or the Mr. White and then primer?

Have any of you ever used this as a barrier with a kit molded in black or another bright color such as red? Is it effective at preventing bleed through? Also, what's the difference between the Base White and this:

Not usually my cup of tea, but these are turning out beautiful!

I would try David's suggestion first. I've done that before and it worked for me. The key point is, as he said, to try to blend everything in together. If that doesn't work then you'll have to start over.

I've seen other pictures of this body and while it looks good for the most part, the rear of the roof is off. There's that huge lip which makes it seem like the roof is a bit sunk in. Is this part of what you're referring to?

Just confirming it's this one? I'm confused since it's labeled as "chrome" but described as "new improved."

Beautiful build, well done.

Hmm, sounds like it'll only have the dropped suspension. Thank you.

Please advise if it has options for a stock height or just the lowered stance.

The decal sheets are what I'm most interested in. If they can build on top of the decals that were included with the Coca Cola monster truck, that would signal another vast improvement over the original kits.

True. I'm assuming this one was the follow up to the original you're talking about? I noticed they added C-1500 to it.

True, but the 90's releases also had "C-1500" prominently displayed. Anyhow, not complaining. Just an observation.

Here's the box art. I feel like they could have done better with it, but at the end of the day what really matters is what's inside the box. Also, calling it a "Silverado" is technically incorrect since this generation was still referred to as C/K-*500. But I bet they called it a Silverado to appeal to more modern audiences.

A few aftermarket outfits have made it throughout the years. Here's a current offering: http://wylde.ca/canuck3d.html

I got all of these this past week. Minus the S-10, I got the rest from Steve Kohler at Star Models for great prices. Great guy to deal with!