Fuel Coupe

You have definitely caught the east coast ride height on this one. DONT CHANGE IT. I really like this one. I'm having trouble deciding on the color for my wheels too. Have you thought about a set of chromed reversed steelies for it similar to my buddy Evel's Model a. It has a real east coast flare to it

Jimmy White is a God. yes they are circle city influenced. Maybe it was just me but the firewall seemed too narrow. it fits fine in the MPC body. I had to cut a pretty deep relief in the firewall I built to accommodate the the channel and the BOP transmission but it worked...

Thanks Guys Yea I always leave a few for discerning eyes to find. How did I guess it would be you that found them By the way did you figure out that the firewall was scratch built and not the one I got from you. It was too small as it fits the switchers body better than the Revell body

Tommy We had a hobby shop here that did just that and he flourished. He sold kits at walmart prices and "broke even" on them but made his money on paints supplies and aftermarket accessories. He did really well until his customers drove him into the ground by special ordering items and never paying for them. He had a small walk in closet full of stuff that was special ordered that he had to eat or send back. I blame him in part for not taking the money for orders up front. I always paid upfront with him because I saw what his customers were doing to his business. We talked at great length about how he was losing money and he said "it will turn around". He closed up and has since gone to delivering parts for a local auto parts chain. Its sad really that people took advantage of him and he allowed it to happen in order to keep friends. Well, His friends are gone and so is his business. It pissed me off too when his "buddies" couldn't understand why he closed up. Don't commit if you cant pay. Because the economy isn't hurting just you.......

Lime green metallic HoK Lacquer it will be covered in Urethane clear tomorrow...

Go Matt Go!!!!

Hey!!!! Is this thing on.... Anyway here are the spider caps I cast and this by the way was my first attempt at casting parts. It was a bit hit and miss but they turned out OK. The biggest problem I had was air bubbles but with a dental pick I was able to remedy that problem... Tell me what you think... I would like to think theres more than just a couple of people looking right??

well its been a while, With Di$ney out of the way and finally getting caught up on the OT rotation at work (whoever said we are in a recession should look at the OT roster at my plant ) I landed on my long change off and should be able to get a little done so, Here's the radiator I built so it can be seen through and has tubes as well. Necessity is the mother of invention Sooo Ive decided to try my hand at casting a set of spider caps, I haven't found anybody that offers them in a ford "big" pattern. Maybe Norm does but I didnt see them.. Anyway I'm going to give it a shot and see how they turn out. Here's my master still have some clean up to do.

Looks good Charlie. Looks like I'll be making an order to you soon. I'm digging those valve stems and I will need a set or 10

Matt just doesn't want to hurt my feelings by blowing me away with his work...

With great power comes great responsibility. Nailhead, There IS no substitute Great job...

Yea come on man spill it. Where did the wheels come from... Nice car...

Another trick you can do Jim is raise the rear fenders and the rear frame horn up 3-6" scale inches. this will in effect lower the rear of the car without splaying the rear tires thus lowering the center of gravity too.. you can then build a wing/box over the engine. Also if you leave it as a pan car make sure you tie the roll cage into the rear horns... Your doing great Jim. I love it...

Attaboy!!!

thats good to know. I know that humidity cause lacquer to blush although I haven't experienced it yet...

not too bad for a slacker

Yea Dave how about the safety aspect , Make sure you have a good respirator and, and.... I'm just busting your balls.. I just switched to Urethane clear and yes its a bit more involved but the final product outweighs the labor. I think for most who haven't tried it is because of the unknown and how much emphasis is put on the safety issues around it. But if you dig you will find that ALL paints that are sprayed have their own inherent dangers. Personally I wont spray anything but urethane as a final coat now. Its pretty easy as far as mixing and spraying. You stated it yourself that once you start to spray it you need to stay with it until its done.... I think the best way to see if you like it is to do what I did and go to your paint jobber and buy it in a two part spray can and give it a go. I found PPG offers a shop-line system that is pretty inexpensive and sprays pretty darn good. it laid down for me with no trouble at all. it was a pretty hot/humid day and it glassed out pretty well. I used the Shop-line JC661 clear with the JH6680 medium topcoat hardener. less than $40 for a quart w/hardener mixed 2:1 I guess what I'm saying is don't be scared of it. I'm no professional painter, there are no snake oils here. Just protect yourself, But if you are spraying any solvent type paints :lacquers enamels etc, You should already be wearing a respirator RIGHT My very first urethane paint job....

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8074

Lyn you have done an amazing job so far. Quick shipping and very good communication. I will be buying again. Heck Im already bid on another one from you tonight

I appreciate all the comments guys. I still have some plumbing work to do and tie up some loose ends but its really close. Tim, Thank you alot. Means a bunch coming from you. Everyone really Bob, Get off you A$$ and build something

the new glasses and the visor will do wonders for you old man. I came back too model building last year and havent been able to do much without the visor..... Its a b*tch getting old...

alright got it cleared and ready to move on heres a pic of it cleared.. Be back to finishing it soon

Thank you Marty. Its a Tamiya Paint stand. I always used bent up coat hangers and finally stepped up to this and love it...

well with all the responses to my questions about wet sanding answered I decided to go for and it worked fine. sanded nice and slick.. I ran into a problem with what I have discovered was called "solvent popping" this is where gas bubbles are trapped between the coats and show up as pin holes. I attribute this to spraying heavy from the can. I only saw this on the ramcharger body. and it was minimal. I went to my local paint supplier and got PPG's lower level "Shopline" brand of clear and hardener and came home and shot a pinto body and it came out pretty good. bumped the pressure to 35psi and sprayed many light coats and had no solvent pop and it laid down nice and smooth.. The shadowing across the roof strips are from the water oak that hangs 25 feet above my driveway. Nice huh Thanks for all the help guys I'm really happy with the results. the decals and tape line disappear and it sprays to a glass finish....

Yes the windows are screwed in , Yes the rear tires are slicks, The mean and nasty camaro kit is basically a late 80's pro stock in "Street" guise. Add a funny car cage and a few other mods to it and you're on your way to a modern pro mod. the chassis is a pretty good platform to start with. do some research on the net for so detail shots of some current chassis set ups...