Deathgoblin

The first kits I remember were the 1/32 scale Monogram 55 Chevy with the slotted mags and blower: And the MPC Star Wars R2-D2 van:

Got a 3D printed Akira class starship in from Ebay. Needs a little sanding, but if it builds up as nicely as the Kyushu and Stargazer, I'll be happy.

Nope, last two were from the LHS. I've tried ordering direct from BMF, but that didn't help.

Built the Italeri/Testors 1933 Cadillac V16 Town Car. It's a fun kit, but keep in mind the main body is a multi-piece assembly. I found it easier to put the main part of the body together so I could sand/paint in one piece. I'll post pics as soon as I can.

Another bad sheet of BMF. I can't seem to get anything that works. There are places on the new sheet where it's visibly not even stuck to the backing paper. I ended up sending a complaint to the company. I won't hold my breath for a reply.

Awesome job! The movie makes a great two-fer with Wizards by Ralph Bakshi.

Awesome! Curious to see how it builds up.

They also make tapes as well. Would be easier than trying to cut strips.

I usually paint carburetors with a base coat of steel or aluminum. Once dry I dry brush them with a little gold acrylic paint, then give them a light wash of black acryilic paint to get the detail to stand out. Then pick out the details with chrome or gold, depending.

Citadel Miniatures paints "Abaddon Black". Thin with a little water and wash it on, then use a Q-Tip to wipe off the excess once dry.

I know they're alcohol based and must evaporate really fast. I've found I can use a little alcohol as a thinner and brush it on, getting better results than with the pen.

I've learned that if you have a fan on anywhere near where you're using the pen, that can cause problems. I keep one on my desk because the room I work in gets stuffy, and I have to turn it off before working with the pens.

Clovis Ledbetter? Didn't he also have a moving company? I loved Jerry Clower. Forgot, it was Marcel Ledbetter

OOP! Forgot to advise that! Thank you!

Yellow-label "Easy-Off" oven cleaner. Haven't had it hurt the plastic at all, and strips chrome and the underlying coating pretty well. I recommend wearing a mask when spraying.

Yeah.... Trying another route too. I took a look on Hobby Link Japan last night and found a Japanese version of BMF and ordered a couple of sheets. Unfortunately it's backordered. I'll try it out when it comes in. I'm doing the pens in the mean time.

I'm officially stuck now. Trying to build Ecto-1 and I can't do the chrome. The BMF I've got is all the new stuff that doesn't stick and I can't seem to get the stuff they used to make. It's just marked "Chrome", but it's more like the ultra-bright than the original. I can't get chrome pens to cover consistently. I keep getting thin spots or it ends up globby. And unfortunately I don't have the space to try and airbrush anything. Does anyone have any recommendations?

I've been working with the Silver Mirror markers I picked up and having good results. They're VERY chrome when applied and seem to stand up to a little handling a little better than Molotow. The big success I've had so far is on the kit I'm working on now. I'm working on a C5R Corvette and used the markers to paint in the reflectors on the third brake light, tail lights, turn signals and marker lights. Once dry, I hit the third brake and marker lights with clear red. Molotow would have dulled, but this is still reflective underneath. Hope this helps a little.

Right now I'm still running on the last of my Testors Acryl. I've noticed I'm finding more Testors acrylics in sets that have better colors than they used to in the little square bottles. I picked up a set that has light and dark gull grey, OD green, ghost grey, flat tan and flat white. I wonder if they're rolling the Model Master lines into their normal paints? I think I'm gonna switch to Revell Aqua once the Acryl runs out. I use a lot of Citadel paints as well. They have a wide array of colors and their white and red are more opaque than most paints I've worked with.

I use liquid glue to permanently join two pieces of plastic, like engine halves or pieces of styrene for kitbashing. I'm using the Testors liquid glue in a bottle, but I chucked the brush and just use paintbrushes. For parts that I want joined quickly, I'm using Gorilla Glue CA adhesive. Seems to be just thick enough to stay put where I want it and thin enough that it doesn't really act as a filler.

I ordered some chrome markers from Ebay called "Silver Mirror Chrome". There's 3 markers to the set for $12.28 (0.7mm, 1mm and 3mm) and they came from China. Shipping was surprisingly fast. They seem to dry quickly and also seem to be a little more touch resistant than the Molotow pens. I'm going to try them out on some chrome places on cars and see how they handle. Here's the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/373629611290

It seems like the last several times I've to order BMF I've gotten the ultra stuff. It was just marked "chrome". I've even recently tried to order directly from BMF directly and it's backordered. I wonder if there's a supply problem? Unfortunately, I'm out and I'm stuck on a kit until I can get some.

Yep! Funny thing was, I was in the character figures section and found it as a "buy it now".

I lucked into a 1/24 Airfix Aston Martin 007 kit. She's a little gluebombed, but looks to be pretty complete. Got it for $29.

For leaf springs, I typically paint them with a mix of medium grey and steel. Enough to make them metallic looking, but not straight steel like the exhaust. The chassis plate I'll usually do primer edged with with the body color. On 50's cars, that's usually a red oxide primer, newer cars are usually grey primer, then mist the edges with the body color. Once it's all dry I'll do a wash of black to make the details stand out and make it look a little dingy. Exhaust usually gets a wash of rust and then pick out the clamps in bright silver.