Deathgoblin

What about using Green Stuff or Miliput to make the boot? Both are two component materials that remain pliable before hardening.

Here's what I do most of the time: I take a thin strip of masking tape and run it around the edge of the black area just outside of the area I want to remain clear. Once I've got it all the way around, I take a piece of wide masking tape and cover the entire surface and burnish it over the strip of tape I laid down. I then use a sharp X-acto and go around the edge of the visible area carefully and peel off the area outside so it can be painted. Then I mask off the outside and spray. If it's too hard to get to do this way, I'll edge the visible area with a Sharpie and hand paint it, but it's less neat.

Got in a kit from Ebay:

Went to Ollie's today. Got a 1/1000 scale USS Reliant from Wrath Of Khan for $12.99. I'll put her beside the Enterprise. Need to get the aztek decals.

Do want all of the Stranger Things kits, especially the Vanagon and Blazer.

I ordered a Fujimi Porsche 917 kit and it came surface shipping. Ordered on March 5th, Delivered on April 10th. It's slow, but much cheaper.

Just finished this one today. I undercoated the red with some Tamiya pink to make it brighter. Masked off the T-tops and sprayed with smoke color. I'm pretty proud of this one. Love Tamiya kits. They all but fall together.

The top one looks like a mashup using parts from the Pyro Auburn Speedster. The bottom is a heavily customized Ford Cobra, but I'm not sure what manufacturer. I like the bottom one - It's very Ferrari looking.

Looks fantastic!

I learned looking at other builds that the wheels would take some extra work. I found that I could split each wheel at the mold seam with a saw, then I ground down the front section to thin it down so the inner part fit better. Also trimmed off the little spacers off the inner wheels in between the fins to get them a little closer. When I was ready to put them back together I used a piece of styrene to space the wheel halves back out to the correct width.

I was about ready to throw this one and I'm glad it's done. Instructions are really vague on assembly order for the exhaust/engine installation and doesn't mention at all that you have to drill out the holes for the pins. Color is Wimbledon White (because it's what I had on hand) with a gold and brown interior. It came out okay: not my best, not my worst.

Looks great! Love the color!

1954 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible:

The "wood" on this one is all paint.

Just finished this one today. It's a little bit of a rough kit with ejector pin marks everywhere and the fit is a little vague in places, but it builds up pretty nice.

Beautiful job! I love the color.

I run into bottles sometimes that harden on their own, once or twice without being opened. I'm liking the Revell paints much better. I wish they were more locally available.

Personally, I keep some mixed paints on my workbench in containers I kinda fudged together. I found lids from some of the older Evian water bottles would snap tightly onto the lid from a 20 oz soda bottle and keeps a tight seal. I saved a bunch of the lids and just reuse them once I no longer need the color or it degrades. But I keep some custom things for long periods of time this way, like a rust paint I use on exhaust systems. Paints will keep for a long time as long as the container seals tightly.

I've got the Revell kit and it's pretty nice. The engine looks really good once it's done.

I'm actually working on this one too. There are indents on the inside of the chassis plate that look like they should be for a roll cage, those are for the pins on the exhaust. There are two holes under the rear seat, two over the differential and two at the rear on either side of the gas tank. You have to drill them out. Also, the best order to install is install the lower control arms to the frame since they go in from the top (left mine unglued so I could install the rest of the suspension), glue the frame to the chassis plate, and before you install the engine you should install the exhaust. The front part runs under the transmission crossmember and it's impossible to get it through once the engine is in place. The instructions are really vague on this. I had to rip out the rear seat and the engine once I realized this so I could get it installed properly.

I'm sorry, it was PET, not PLA. Was just watching the new one today and caught my mistake. Sorry for the error.

Very nice job! I love the color.

What about the type of plastic? I've been watching a series of YouTube videos by PaulRestorer where he rebuilds old die-cast cars, and he uses PLA plastic for the clear parts in a vacuform machine. PLA is pretty tough stuff. I dropped a model of the USS Kyushu (Star Trek) that was PLA and it bounced.

Interior looks amazing!

I got to drive this one a few times when he had it. It had a surprising amount of power and rode like a cloud. These are really fun kits. They've got really good detail for a snapper but are pretty easy to build. I've got another one of the Impala SS in my stash.