Deathgoblin

My answer's gotta be a late 70's Plymouth Volare. I had one that had been a little old lady's car. Right after I got it, the exhaust system snapped on its own while parked when I met my parents for dinner. While the slant-6 itself was indestructible, everything around it was trash. I know at one point the carburetor started coming apart, causing it to stall whenever it would come to a stop.

Very nice look. Good work so far!

I'm a regular Ebayer, but I've only had one issue since I've been a member. I've recently learned it's cheaper sometimes to get small lots of kits than just getting a single one.

Very nice work so far! Keep it up!

I found this for the 64. Would it be close? http://www.public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/instruction_sheetsh/instruction_sheets/amt-2/amt-64-imperial-har/

Personally I can't wait to get a 3D printer. I've got a background in CAD and have worked with 3D modelling before. Parts would be a lot easier to make than scratchbuilding from styrene.

Got a pre-built Monogram Lamborghini Countach. surprisingly not glue bombed. I just got it in yesterday, and it's already completely apart. nothing broken and the clear pieces are in good shape. All I gotta do is build a new tail light panel, which should be pretty easy.

The slots look really good on this. Kinda gives me an "American Graffiti" feel.

This is definitely going to be the next kit I buy. You're doing a fantastic job so far.

Haven't received them yet, but I got a good deal on 2 brand new AMT 58 impalas and a Lamborghini Countach kit that looks like the Monogram full detail.

Maybe put black chrome BMF on the piece, paint the red, then use alcohol and a microbrush to remove the paint on the lettering?

I work for Big Lots in their corporate offices on the store help desk. Been there about 10 years.

You should either cast this masterwork or go to work for one of the major model companies. Your work is beyond words.

I like the idea of doing the dry transfer onto decal film. That would be a lot easier to work with.

I use the Testors glue for clear parts. I've used it to do gauge faces too. Never had any problems with it other than user stupidity (putting it on too thick). Nice thing is it cleans up with water.

I did the kit seats, but painted them more in line with what the stock ones should have been. I'll have to post pictures. Overall, this is one of their better kits.

If you can't find it, PM me and I'll make sure I've got my chrome tree from this kit. It actually builds up really nice, and goes together easy. Good call on the MCG photo-etch. The biggest drawback to the Trumpeter kits I've found is the badging sucks. I've got to get a new set of PE for mine. I somehow managed to drop both of the P's from the front.

Sleek, swooping fenders and rooflines. Nothing that makes the car too square or too bulgy. headlights have to fit the shape of the overall car.

I use the craft store acrylics all the time. Haven't tried them in my airbrush yet. I use them primarily in interiors and detail painting. It's hard to tell how they'd come out for painting a body.

Very nice! Excellent paint on both.

Didn't AMT make a really nice kit of the Subaru Brat way back when? I saw the instructions and it looked really detailed. Probably hard to find, though.

not really. I'm recovering a glue bomb myself. It take a sharp knife and a lot of patience and care. You might soak it in a little water and throw it in the freezer. That helped me break loose several of the bonds. Good Luck!

That's one of the main reasons I want a 3D printer.

How about: the square-bodied Panthers (78-90) VW Type 3 fastback ANY of the early Chrysler products from the 30's to the 50's Any AMC products Packards from the 30's to 50's

I just used semi-gloss black on mine for the "metal black". That kit builds up pretty nicely. Good luck!