vypurr59

Imitation is a sincere form of flattery. But outright copy someones design and market as your own is a no-no. But yet we still spend thousands of dollars a year at Wally-World buying all the chinese products they sell, just because we can get them at a lower price. Which are knockoffs from others. If only they would use their powers for good and at least try to copy some old AMT, JoHan and Revell kits.

Silly Putty, or white glue. Both are easy to remove.

Micro Mark has the mini milling machines. So does Harbor Freight.

The line lock would be after the master cylinder and before the proportioning valve.

Welcome to the forum. Not sure about the KY area, but Cinci has a great club. http://cincinnatiautoreplicas.org/

Brake lines start from the Master Cylinder, go thru a proportioning valve, then go to front and rear wheels. The main line goes through a tee fitting at both front and rear. At the front wheels, there is a flexible line at each wheel, and at the rear the hard line goes to a flexible line to the tee. the rear wheels are hard lines to each wheel.

Was the Willys plant in Toledo Ohio? or what City? I kinda remember visiting it, when I was younger, along with the Delco/Packard Electrical plant.

This is what I have from my researching. Hope this helps a little.

Michaels has it by the drafting tools, at least the store I go to does. X-acto brand

I coat my tires with future, let dry, then decal, and dull coat if necessary

I had one of these. I took and old discarded freon tank, and got me a kit from the auto parts store to make it a tire fill kit. Then I plumbed it to the compressor and had a tank, that would take the pulses of air and smooth it out. This became my travel compressor once I purchased a bigger one for the shop.

Classy looking ride!!

What brand are those wheels Casey??

Model car Roundup has the wheels. Plastic Performance Products is the manufacturer. As for glue, I use Testors tube, Tenex liquid, and super glues. For putty, I use a 2 part made by bondo.

Future as it was called back in the day, is just an acrylic floor wax. You should be able to find at dollar stores under the LA brand. Dollar General has their own brand and it has marked on bottle says, compare to future. Many brands out there. As long as it is a clear acrylic product, you should be in good shape. I coat my old decal sheets with either a Clear Acrylic Spray, or from Micro Sol chemicals they have a decal overcoat. But you could use the future as a clearcoat over the decals and finish. It can be sprayed through an airbrush, using windshield washer solvent "the blue stuff" as the thinner with no tinting from the blue in the solvent. Refer to thread http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86596&hl= Mr Chapman gives a great tutorial with future as a clearcoat and thinning with washer solvents. Here is a pic of the Family Dollar store brand

Tinting the Future with an acrylic paint also works.

http://www.racer.com/indycar/item/101583-kurt-busch-set-for-indy-500-with-andretti-squad

He has been racing under Andretti Racing, and is piloting a car at Indy Memorial Day, then flying to Charlotte to race Nascar that evening. He has raced road course during 24 hours at Daytona. He was raised on racing open wheel carts.

Rumors are that Kurt Busch would be a pilot of the F-1 car

My wife purchased these crackers for snacks. I found that the little plastic spreader is great for scratch-building and for mixing epoxies, resins and other things. It measures 2 1/8" x 3/8" x 1/16"

Acrylic Paints could be used over any Paint finish. They do not interact with lacquers or enamels. I have even used them over Future without any interactions.

An old cover from a VCR, or Tape Deck and magnets are also useful for jigs.

Great Job, Very realistic looking.

Mask on inside and paint with acrylic paints. I tape an X-acto blade to pieces of styrene, to get the proper "leg" to edge the mask evenly. This is for the windows. Like the black surrounding, on factory cars.

You could use either Superglue or an epoxy.