Harry P.

Make that two of us.

Depending on which "skin" you're using, you'll see a slightly different layout/color scheme... but click on the "Gallery" link: Then click on the "Member's Gallery" link: Then click on "New Album"... Then follow the instructions:

Now that you mention it... I don't see any brakes! Also, I don't think I'd be too comfortable with a coil in my crotch!

I dunno... looks kind of dangerous to me!

Arnold Ziffel is spinning in his grave...

It has to be on the floor somewhere...

How about this? Real or model? The answer: MODEL!

Both are cool... me likey!

"Regular" BMF works... it's the "Black Chrome" we're talking about, and it doesn't stick.

There is a 10 photo limit per post... but you can post as many times as you want within the same topic thread...

Exactly. Why should we have to buy product "A," then also buy Product "B" to get Product "A" to work like it should have in the first place!

The check's in the mail...

BTW... now that you've figured out how to post pictures, you need to figure out how to focus your camera...

But that takes all the fun out of a Google search...

Easy way: make a new back glass out of clear acetate (you can find it at art supply stores or Hobby lobby). Get a piece of thick, clear acetate larger than the window, cover both sides with masking tape to protect from scratches as you work. Lay the kit glass on the acetate, trace around the kit glass, then trim your new acetate "glass" to size. Measure and lay out a center line on your new glass, draw the shape of the duct opening, and use a sharp X-acto to cut out the hole. Clean up any rough spots with a fine sanding stick. Remove the masking tape, add the duct body to the underside (using Jairus' references above), and there ya go. If you mess up the hole, no problem. Try again with a new piece of acetate.

You bought all that today???!!!

Did you open the panels yourself, or did the kit come that way? Love the door latch detail. Nice interior, dash looks great. Nice color, nice model, nice car. Of course when it comes to Mustangs I'm biased... (BTW... get that driver side inner door panel glued down... )

Do you have a spare parts box? If so, you might find an A arm that's close. As far as finding out the chassis was warped, like the guys said... always test fit parts before you paint them! On your Chevy, if the frame is only slightly warped, all is not lost. Usually a large part like a frame can be pulled into shape when you glue things together; use spring clamps or rubber bands or some sort of gizmo to hold things in place until the glue dries.

In my experience the "Black Chrome" stuff won't stick. It's useless (unless they have a "new and improved" version out now).

Good idea adding the battery, it looks great.

I've been drawing and painting all my life, doing it on the computer for the last 20 years or so (Photoshop mostly, Illustrator once in a while). Depending on how complex the subject is, it takes me roughly 8-15 hours or so on average do do a complete illustration. A few take longer, a few take less time. As far as taking commissions... I don't think many members here would be willing to pay me my asking price...

Lean into the turn? You know... like a Segway.

Use a tiny brush and some flat white acrylic and D.I.Y. A few months ago we ran a feature in the magazine on a 1/12 Corvette...the model was featured on the cover (Big Scale Beauty). That's exactly what the builder (David Eicherly) did. Painted little dashes on the wiring... it looked pretty good.

In 1/24 scale??? Impossible.

Nice work... Now use a small brush to paint the header flanges (molded onto the cylinder heads) to match the headers for a much more realistic look...