Modelbuilder Mark

I thought I would go check them out per your note, as I had not heard of them before. Looks like they are cheaper, but I am not seeing the $19.99 price range. The Revell Cobra is only 3 bucks or so cheaper than HL. The AlaKart is pretty closer as well.

I have a couple friends that I watch like Chuck's Hobby Spot and BG's Model Workshop. I also enjoy Mark Batson as he gives some great tips and is such a down to earth guy. ModelCarVideos provides a neat perspective, and I still watch HPIGuy on a regular basis, it is just plain fun and back to childhood to see them come together so fast, but he has been very helpful more than once with his unboxing reviews to see what was being included in the releases. There are several others that are simply Top Notch such as A4 and Hobby Robby, but some of those videos are far between.

I broke down a few years back and got progressives, better than having readers on the bench, by the couch, but the bed, in the wife’s purse etc. etc. lol

James, I spent a lot of time researching and validating what is body shop safe. I know a lot of model builders use Novus which does contain silicone unless you contact the fir directly and order their non-silicone version, but that becomes far too expensive. I too used it for years until myself, and friends that I have that build and do far better paint work than myself started running into problems. I would say that if you look into products that are Body Shop safe, you should be fine. I will admit that there are multiple types of silicone, some problematic, some not, but looking around online you will see body shop guys, and surprisingly a LOT of guitar forums that discuss what they use and like. Those products that I have listed above where what I landed on, and have found to be very cost effective.

Here is my recent process using Scalefinishes.com factory correct Turbulence Grey basecoat with automotive 2K clear. Shiny is nice, but not at the expense of realism so I try to shoot my 2K clear much thinner than some others I have seen to maintain as much of a scale fidelity as possible. This still went on a smidge thicker than I would have liked, but the 1:1 also has a very deep/wet look so I am OK with what I have here. This was only wet sanded where there was some muck in the paint and a fish eye. I started with 3,000 grit foam pad, followed by 4,000 grit through 8,000 grit polishing clothes. I then buffed the entire model starting with the mild cutting Turtle Wax T-415 Premium Grade Rubbing Compound, followed by Meguiar's M0916 Mirror Glaze Swirl Remover, then Meguiar's M0716 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze. After I complete final assembly, I will top top it off with Wizard's Mist N shine for that final wet look and to help prevent dust/fingerprints. (I also use this on the inside glass before mating to frame) The main thing look for here are products that do not contain silicone as to not mess up my hobby room/paint area causing future painting problems. There are still a few places in this finish I would go back and redo if I wanted a show winning finish, but for a curbside I am pleased. While there are several products listed here, this process described was maybe an hour one evening, after the body sat for nearly a month after clear coat.

THIS is model "building". I am by comparison a mere assembler.

I have a lot of better scaled treadplate, could just replace the entire top panel.

After being a bit late to this chain, I pulled out my kit, and there is no major warpage in mine, but I did notice that a couple of the tie-down rings in the ramp were short shot (see pic), but other than that, the it looks great. These couple ring being gone are not a major issue to be, as I feel like I can drill a small hole there ae if the ring had been pulled lose or something. Not sure it would make since is asking for a new ramp bed just for these.

While you can work 2K clear a lot sooner, it does have a slight shrink effect over the first couple weeks. Some great painter I know that get fantastic results, state they go back and polish them out again 2-3 weeks after the first round, which to me seems like double the work. Because of that, I have been waiting that 2-3 weeks after the clear before I even polish/buff 2K the first time.

Cool models, thanks for sharing!

Cool looking custom! I like the wheel treatment as well.

Very nicely done, fun looking 1:1 ride as well.

Cool couple!

I grabbed a grabbed a few get in Phoenix last week a week. I picked up a lot of easy bulls to share with the kiddos, and a few food my parts stash. The snaps for the kids were only $4.99

Great test, and loving in the Phoenix valley I would have participated have I had I seen this post months ago.

Looks like a fun project

Had one of those, would really like to get another some day, but the prices are insane on this one

He builds (and films) multiple models a week, and as such enjoys the process as many of us did when we first got into building models. Rarely does he putty seems, clean seems etc. He just enjoys the builds.

Nice! My dad has 49 hardtop, same color

Nicely done

Great looking build!

Very nice!

Looking good!

Good luck, if I still lived in Indiana I would love to attend.

I do not think I have ever sprayed clear in under 24 hours, but that has a lot to do with my time more than the plan. I have been using 2K lately, but may go back to standard clears, they just feel more scale correct to me.